Loose clicking noise on LF wheel when turning right
Loose clicking noise on LF wheel when turning right
When I hit a bump while turining right there's a loose clicking noise in the LF wheel. I know you'll think it's the CV boot but it's not a constant loud clicking noise while taking a sharp turn. I only hear it when I drive over a bump when turning right. It doesn't have to be a sharp right turn. I hear this noise when turing right at only 10 degrees.
I replaced the driveshafts 3 years when those CV boots were making that constant loud click on every turn.
I replaced both LCAs, outer tie rods, and sway bar links earlier this year. I recently inspected those parts but couldn't find anything loose.
Since I only hear this noise when hitting a bump while turing right could it still be the CV boot or maybe the wheel hub?
I replaced the driveshafts 3 years when those CV boots were making that constant loud click on every turn.
I replaced both LCAs, outer tie rods, and sway bar links earlier this year. I recently inspected those parts but couldn't find anything loose.
Since I only hear this noise when hitting a bump while turing right could it still be the CV boot or maybe the wheel hub?
Typically if you hear a noise when going over a bump it's suspension related, check your lower control arms, ball joints and steering joints. Inspect the boots and bushings for any sign of tearing, drying, cracking, or degradation. Is it a click or a kind of thunk/bump noise? If so it's def your LCA.
*edit* Check your struts and upper strut mounts for any rust/leakage etc.
*edit* Check your struts and upper strut mounts for any rust/leakage etc.
It's a loose metal clikcing noise. This only clicks when turning right and hittting a bump.
RIGHT TURN + BUMP = CLICKING NOISE on LF WHEEL
I suspect a loose LCA will click over every bump, not just on a right turn.
This clicking noise started months before I installed new outer tie rods, sway bar links, LCAs, tokio blue struts, strut mounts, bearings, and lowering springs.
The only parts I haven't inspected yet are the inner tie rods and the drive shafts I replaced 3 years ago. If it was the CV joints then it would be a loud clicking noise on every sharp turn. This is a soft metal clicking noise happeneing on easy right turns and bumps combined.
EDIT: I got the wheels aligned after installing the new suspension. The mechanic who took it for the test ride noticed the noise. He first suspected the left sway bar link but after inspecting it he ruled it out because it was tight.
RIGHT TURN + BUMP = CLICKING NOISE on LF WHEEL
I suspect a loose LCA will click over every bump, not just on a right turn.
This clicking noise started months before I installed new outer tie rods, sway bar links, LCAs, tokio blue struts, strut mounts, bearings, and lowering springs.
The only parts I haven't inspected yet are the inner tie rods and the drive shafts I replaced 3 years ago. If it was the CV joints then it would be a loud clicking noise on every sharp turn. This is a soft metal clicking noise happeneing on easy right turns and bumps combined.
EDIT: I got the wheels aligned after installing the new suspension. The mechanic who took it for the test ride noticed the noise. He first suspected the left sway bar link but after inspecting it he ruled it out because it was tight.
Last edited by jholley; Oct 17, 2010 at 02:46 PM.
I just replaced the left LCA and sway bar link and the clicking noise remains. This isn't a constant clicking noise while turning but I suspect it's still the CV joint that's defective. I might try replacing the CV joint on this 3 year old driveshaft. The boot is in good shape.
check the strut bearing. It is the part that the top of the strut bolts into. Open the hood and look at the top of the strut. The bolt should be perfectly centered in the mounting. You can also grab onto the fender and "shake" the car sideways. You better not see any movement of the strut bolt.
I'll inspect that left front strut tomorrow. When I replaced the struts along with new mounts and bearings last March maybe I didn't tighten them enough.
Last edited by jholley; Dec 11, 2010 at 06:11 PM.
Do you also hear the noise on slow breaking? like a light glunk, glunk, glunk, but not everytime. B/c i have the same noise on my 96 A23, and i also have replaced everything on the drivers side,like the upper strut barring/mount that is usually broken internally where you can't see it. Other parts replaced are balljoint, struts, cv axle, ect... and still the noise persistest. At this point b/c my car is droped on tein s-tech(way to low imo and will be corrected soon) some of the noise may be the LAC bushings(parts on order) but what I really think it is now is the diff barring in the trans OUCH! How many mi. on your tranny? Too check it reach in and try to move the inner cv axle housing in a up/ down motion if there is noticeable play its prob.. diff barring inside the trans axle housing(OUCH again). At least thats my humble ****...after lots of checking and tinkering on my ride. O well i am not complaing b/c my car has the OR trans sofarasiknow and i've got almost 300,000mi.
Best I can fig.. why the noise is intermit.. is the way the pre-load on the diff works? Dont know that much about trannys, but I do know that you can drop in the trans from a i30t with the VLSD and be much
Part# RE4F04V instead of the stock RE4F04A. But that is for the auto, anyhow i am pretty sure the diff barrings on the 5-speed are in the same place as the auto and can be inspected like I explained above.
Best I can fig.. why the noise is intermit.. is the way the pre-load on the diff works? Dont know that much about trannys, but I do know that you can drop in the trans from a i30t with the VLSD and be much
Part# RE4F04V instead of the stock RE4F04A. But that is for the auto, anyhow i am pretty sure the diff barrings on the 5-speed are in the same place as the auto and can be inspected like I explained above.
I have the exact same symptoms as you and did everything like you stated and even the alignment guy told me that its probably the hub. I am going to replace the entire spindle when I can get a shop to use and let you know the outcome. Also, I have my OEM left axle still and I am currently at 308K. I was thinking it could be the axle for me too but no boots are ripped or leaking...
check the strut bearing. It is the part that the top of the strut bolts into. Open the hood and look at the top of the strut. The bolt should be perfectly centered in the mounting. You can also grab onto the fender and "shake" the car sideways. You better not see any movement of the strut bolt.
Thanks a million Dennis
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