Quick question, I just took my driver side headlight out and used one of those headlight restoration kits on it. On the directions it says the coating clears and dries within 24 hours. It doesn't say anything about not driving with them or exposing them to the elements or anything, just states the fact that it clears and dries within 24 hours.

So does this mean I shouldn't drive for a while? Or will I be OK to drive? I planned on going out tonight so obviously I'd like to use my car. I won't be going above 50 miles per hour, but my car probably will sit outside overnight. I do not believe that it is supposed to rain either. Thoughts, experiences with this, anyone?

 

It should be fine.

 

Low speeds should be ok I would think, but I might consider leaving it be, otherwise if the yellowing comes back you wont know why.

 

Oh I fully expect the yellowing to come back. Remember how I posted those pics in the Ghustle thread of how bad the light was and I suspected it was on the inside of the lens from painting the headlights? Well my suspicions were confirmed. They look better as far as yellowing, but they're still very cloudy looking, almost worse than before I think. I'm not happy with the result at all, but I'm not trying to make it worse either. I think I'm just gonna have to open them up and work from the inside.

 

Ahh so you didnt pop them apart?

It seems this is a byproduct of taking the lenses off, the 5.5 I have has angel eyes and it too has the yellowing, same dam spots too...

 

Nope, just did it on the outside. And yeah, the one thing I noticed taking a real good look at them is the problem is all along the top where at the edges where the sealant is and extends down to around halfway down the light. The bottom half of the lens was pretty much crystal clear, just like my passenger side light is.

 

If the product works like I'm visualizing, I wouldn't drive until it's hard and cured. Otherwise if you slam into a bug or a pebble or something, will that mess up the new finish and sealant somehow, sort of like wet paint?

 

I've restored many many headlights. I never use those "KITS". I prefer the tried and true method on sandpaper and buffing compound/buffing and polishing wheels, then finish off with a nice wax.

for very light hazing, I've successfully used metal polish on plastic headlights and finish off with a coat of wax. Works great too and much less work but not as smooth.

sounds like what the directions on the bottle are referring to is the wax that they used for the final step. I wouldn't worry enough to not drive the car for that reason alone.

 

THIS.

Also, my headlights fogged almost the exact same way and they've never been opened. It makes sense when you think of the orientation, shape, and composition of the lens material.

 

Lightrite seems to be the real deal....I'm thoroughly convinced this is the ****!!!!!!

 

I've really wanted to try this stuff out for awhile. Is there a local supplier?

 

I remember that. So the fogging was on the inside after all. Did it wipe off on the inside, or did you have to use abrasives and elbow grease?

 

I agree with this. Depending on the condition also, chances are that you will have some scratches, pits, and yellowing in the same time. If you never have any moisture inside then you don't need to touch the inside, the yellowing you see is the oxidation of the plastic. I used McGuire headlight polish with good result. Sometimes you need to take it all the way down to 800 grit and go back up to 2000 grit, poilish, and buff. Almost all headlights I restored, I took it down to at least 1500 grit and go back up. A nice wax has good UV protection, but u need to re-do it after other month to keep the shine. I've had good result with spraying polyurethane clear coat also, this is more expensive and more time consuming but better result.

left picture, before restoration.

After