Can anyone tell me if the P1320 code could have anything to do with the timing chain? I have the code and also when starting it tends to drag at first then cranks right over, also after running for a short period of time it won't start right back up

 

What made you say timing chain? I do not usually give people a hard time for not searching but you need to at least try man...click the search button and type in "p1320."

 

camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor REF

 

I have searched and replaced all coils, the REF crankshaft position sensor, idle air control valve,. The car sits and purrs and runs fantastic but I keep getting the 1320 code. took it to a local dealer so they could put it on the machine and that was a waste of money because they told me coils so I replaced them at a cost of $300 still same thing. It does tend to crank over hard at first but then is fine that is why I asked about the timing chain.

 

what brand coils? OEM Nissan coils or parts store coils? If not OEM coils they will throw the P1320 code

 

I got these at Advance Auto, so what you're saying is I need to buy nissan brand coils?

 

^^That was my problem. I had a cylinder 4 misfire...replaced with a BWD coil from advanced....got the P1320. Advanced gave me another coil...still had the P1320. Trashed the coil and put in a junkyard coil...P1320 disappeared

 

Same problem here with Advanced Auto coils. Now I only use OEM coils.

 

I have some 3.5 coils

 

So let me aks this: would you try new plugs before getting OEM plugs?

 

One more question: would the coils effect the way the car starts? or the way the car cranks over?

 

If a coil is bad the car may take a couple turns to start, it may stutter on start, stutter all the time, or not start at all even.

For coils I would always buy OEM. That is just me and thats hoping I could afford it.

 

Oo sorry you said plugs, not coils. I just got the recomended plugs from a local store. Worked good the last 50k.

 

Sorry what I meant to say is would you try new plugs before buying new coils?

 

No.

If you do not have OEM COILS, and have the code...the plugs are likely not the cause of the code...the coils are. Get OEM used coils from jumkyard or .org classifieds...

You may still want to replace plugs if they haven't been done in awhile though...but the plugs themselves are likely not the cause of your code.

 

as for PLUGS........NGK or bust.

 

Ok I finally got the new OEM coils but it's still starting hard and sometimes not starting. This is a 2000 Maxima I am wondering does anyone know where the ignition condenser is?

 

If its anything like mine did, get a cam sensor from the jy and try it. Mine was having hard starts but after a little extended.cracking, it would start eventually. It progressively got worse...no codes for It until it finally would just crank and not start. Replaced the cam sensor and all is good. You can probably get one for under $20 so its worth a try imo.

 

I've had my 1320 code for over a year. Car runs and drives fine. I don't currently have hundreds of dollars to put into getting the code to go away, so I'll keep driving it until it throws a secondary code, which is hasn't even after all this time.

 

coils at advance auto for the bwd brand are oem for the three back but the three front are coils from poland and their resistance is low they will throw a code.
Autozone duralast I believe are still oem repackaged
Did you try cleaning the connector contacts on the coils or the grounding wires?

 

I haven't tried cleaning anything and becuse the car was not inspected I couldn't legally drive it so I finally got about 50 miles on it since changing the coils and restting the ECU. I'm gonna try to get it inspected tomorrow as long as the SES light stays off. Once the car is legal then I can really drive it and figure things out but so far if you have P1320 I reccomend getting OEM coils and if you check out Ebay you can find them on there for about $300 which if you go to the parts store and get those crappy ones that don't work you'll pay the same!!

 

Ok I finally got rid of the P1320 code and got inspected but I am still having the issue that it just cranks and cranks, sometimes it will start sometimes it won't !!! Any ideas?

 

Look at my post #18 and report back. Also, post #3 mentioned camshaft sensor.

 

Hey 2bros did you try testing your cam sensor before replacing it? I tested mine and it was in the 2049 range which acording to the FSM was in the proper range.

 

Ok I'm at the stealership and the guy has said something about inductance has anyone ever heard of this??

 

I didn't test mine...I gotta invest in a meter. From what I recall though, just because it tests within range does not necessarily mean it is still good. The cam sensor is a definite possibility for the long cranks though. Find one at a junk yard and swap it...they're probably like $10. It's literally a 2 minute swap and I bet you don't even get dirty.

 

Ok the dealer told me that there is corosion in between the bell housing and the motor that is creating a problem with the crank postion sensor. I am wondering if anyone has ever heard of this problem before? They quoted me 9hours at $89 per hour for them to seperate the tranny from the motor and clean both and then put dielectric grease in between and reassemble. My opinion is they will bring it in and replace the POS sensor and if that fixes it they will still charge me for the entire job. So I am hoping someone can tell me more about this.