Looking at the picture below, the way Nissan have it running is #1 connected to #1, and #2 connected to #2. Because of limited space I have to cut the lines in order to remove the manifold. The question I have is when it's time to reinstall, can I just run a coolant line straight from #1 to #2 (highlighted in pink) and completely ignore the stupid connection (highlighted in green) on the manifold?

 

People including myself bypass it, all the time. For the 00VI swap its a must.

 

No, That cools your egr and partly your UIM where the EGR connects. If your deleting the EGR you'd be fine but if not you need that coolant line. Just cut it and go buy a foot long section of new hose for a few bucks and redo the lines. I alos got rid of the pinch style hose clamps for the screw plumbing clamps.

 

But without an egr delete, wont this build up a crazy amount of heat?

 

i bypassed mine because of my spacers. it doesnt actually cool the UIM. cant you see it? just look at it. you just make sure you keep the lines out of the way like zip tie them to a line along the firewall.

 

Not sure why it needs to be cut when you can just disconnect them. I've removed my manifold 4 times and never cut those lines. It's a PITA to get off but you can do it when you loosen the manifold from the block.

 

I cut mine because those little tension clips are just a ***** to get at. That and i wanted to replace the cracking hose anyways.

It looks like it may just hold the line but I imagine it cools it a bit since its direct metal to metal contact with the UIM. Forgot about the cooling line on the EGR valve itself which probabaly cools the gas quite a bit before it reaches the UIM.

 

Also, can I just use a silicone hose for the connection between the valve covers or do I need the original hose?

 

do it just like that dude

 

That is one pretty hose. Leave it as is. Or maybe just cut a small piece of it

 

I wonder if I shaped it into a figure 8, will I get infinite HP?

 

good info there dude

 

Just waiting on parts right now. I can't wait.

 

my boys is sitting there lookin like that too

 

Got it all done and installed. Car is running great and ill test drive it later on

 

Pictures

 

Before:



During: Replaced, valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gasket, spark plug tube seals, and those little grommets for the valve cover.




After:

 

were your tube seals actually leaking? I have never heard of a 4th gens seals leaking. 5th gen always but never a 4th

 

The spark plug tube seals weren't leaking but since it came with the gasket kit and it's very time consuming to replace the valve cover, why not install the tube seals while you're at it?

Funny thing is, it looks like the tube seals were replaced at some point but the moron who installed it put the tube seals upside down on the valve cover near the firewall

 

upside down? how? You are saying they put them on the tubes themselves instead of on the valve cover end?

 

That coolant line doens't cool your EGR, nor does it cool your UIM. Have you felt coolant once the car is warmed up?

I've had 4 4th gens and three of them had at least one tube seal that leaked.

 

That's how my project started out...fix a rear valve cover leak,and a front left strut, which turned into EVERYTHING else!!! I too just cut that line, maybe I just ran out of patience, considering I cut it with a saws-all and a long blade! I was thinking the same thing about bypassing the UIM cooling line. But I didn't think of the EGR (I'm keeping mine) heat soak. Wish somebody, or myself would have taken a temp reading at idle with the line on, and with it bypassed. I'm a little sketchy on by passing it now. I plan on doing the 00VI install, and I read it was necessary to bypass that line anyways, right? Is that again, 00VI w/o an EGR or w/ an EGR (or does it matter)?!?

Just to show you my mess...

 

No as in the tube seals are taper, they put the tube seals upside down so that instead of it looking like this when you put the valve cover back |/ \|

they install the spark plug tube seals upside down |\ /| (basically the smaller diameter side is now facing the engine instead of the opposite.

 

I was told not to bypass anything and they did it for a reason. So I took the trouble and reinstall it just how I took it off.

 

Crap! Not what I wanted to hear.

 

. . . Your fine. Seriously dude...

Its like what I said before, anyone who does a VI swap has to bypass it anyways! How do you think the 2000 and 2001 engines are set up?

 

I would think so...I just let myself get spooked for some reason. Screw it, it's being bypassed (when ever I get to put it all back together!)

 

my boys is back together now. didnt bypass it nor did we make the hose bigger because its really not that hard to get off. replaced a couple hose clamps tho. everything went back together fine but its idling at around 1500 now. thinking it might be the iacv.

 

i'm pretty sure the hollow part of the seal goes into the valve cover...by your logic, |\ /|

 

i see you have those pesky swirl valves... did you delete them while you had you UIM off?

 

Look for posts from Jamerica. Great pics of the fast idle cam and its issues, which may be yours. If I find the link I'll post it as well.

EDIT: Found it...here you go;


http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...placement.html

 

Please don't pass bad info around, check this this thread if you don't know. http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ube-seals.html

 

if you had to put a time estimate on replace rear vavle cover gasket how long would you say?

 

my egr valve is gone and she runs like a striped ape. bypassed that cooling line and all is good. made an egr plate where it attaches to the intake and shes good no leaks and she idles perfectly.