Ok so I have the 4th MAF in my car now since i bought it in September. The original in it just shyt the bed one morning right at start up (low voltage malfunction). I replaced it with a junkyard one. That one lasted about 2weeks before throwing codes (high voltage malfunction)

So I put the money down and got one from Autozone. about 2 weeks in it died (p1800). Now I have a warranty replacement from them and its screwing AGAIN. When ever I really get on the throttle (and only then) it will kick down and begin to accel but as soon as the RPMs get up around 3500-4000 it will go into limp mode with no SES. Ill check the codes anyways and there is the p1800 pending. I can turn the ignition off while rolling for a good 5-10 secs and it will run fine again. I have neutered my car and put the orig intake back on same results.

But yesterday I got a SES with a p0172 bank 1 reading rich??????

ths car s soo gawd damn finicky!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Do I need a dealer MAF???????

 

Yup. Buy an OEM MAF.

 

Where the hell can I get one for a decent price????... the dealers around here want between 500 AND 600..... that's a total killer.

 

I've not had to buy one yet so maybe someone else with more experience can answer that. I was just telling you what I've heard from others. They always seem to have issues with aftermarket MAFS.

 

I have a used maf for $125 shipped priority, it is even the best part number AM600.

 

that happened to me before and it was a short in one of the wires from the pigtail

 

I was going to say, there is a procedure to check it, but it seems as if your problem isn;t the MAF, it's probably the wiring somewhere.

I've had my car for 8 years, and 90k, only went through 1 MAF, replaced it with a used 00-01 one, and it's fine. Also, the first one never threw a code, just gave me intermittent problems.

 

Any idea of where to begin......ive read in some way older posts theres maybe reprogramming needed for the comp?

 

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-write-up.html

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/219594...maxima/page-2/

Also, I'd say visually inspect the wires for as start.

 

Yea, a dealer reprogram is recommended(, but not necessarily required) when replacing the MAFS, but not doing it won't necessarily cause problems either. I haven't had the chance to have mine reprogrammed, and it hasn't caused me any problems.

-Nathan

 

ok i just went out and got some readings.

i have 5 wires on my MAF... i assuming the yellow is for the IAT.

startng from the intake side of the MAF and NOT the filter side at idle.
White 1.498v
Red 5.10v
Black -.003v
Red 14.12v
Yellow 3.85v
The white voltage went up to 2.98 at 4000 RPMs *****seems low?******
and the yellow went up to 3.89 at 4000 RPMs

Wires at the harness are in good shape.....no corrosion or bare wires!!!!

 

Do you think a throttle relearn might help at all?

 

It's possible. It won't hurt to try at least.

-Nathan

 

Are you running an oiled intake filter (K&N)?

Also, regarding price, you can get the 5th gen MAF with housing for around (maybe less than) $100 through www.nissanpartsasap.com although I highly suggest you just call them. The website is still getting revisions and is a bit tricky to navigate.

 

i was running an oiled A/F when the orig and junkyard MAF went. When I bought the Autozone one I went back to stock intake and paper filter. I was looking into getting the AEM Dryflow for the stock setup tho.

http://www.nissanpartsasap.com/nissa...ch=description

All Im seeing is $$$$$$$$$

 

ALSO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ive noticed today..... I believe I am having this issue before the car reaches full temp...... I had to romp on it today to avoid an accident and it responded like it should, after that I tried it a few more times and it was all good. And when think about all the times ive had this recent issue it was with 10 minutes of my house when merging on the highway.

 

Rookie mistake. You're looking at MAFS for the 5.5 gen. Both say Vq35 and even the 01 date ranges are indicative of early 2002 production 5.5 gens. Second, you didn't call them. So, they are open on Saturday I think till around noon or maybe 2pm. Call them and ask for one off a 2k. When you get it, you will only need to swap the thermistor. There are many threads on how to do that. They are aware that the 5 gen MAF can work on the 5.5 with thermistor swap.

 

OK check this out. I just got the car to do the issue. I immediately pulled over and took readings from the MAF. Believe it or not all the readings were normal. So I pulled the code even though there is no ses light. P0340 was the code. So now Im thinking I need to check the readings on that.... plus I noticed my timing was advancing almost 50 degrees when it was bouncing off the 2500 limp mode Rev limit

 

I don't memorize codes. This is what?

 

Bank 1 camshaft sensor fault.

 

Ohhhh, wasn't there a recall on that? Worth looking into. I had mine done for free last year.

 

oh shyt there is a recall on the sensor...... How do i go about having that done? And how do find out if it was possibly already done?

 

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...-now-what.html

SAME ISSUE IS FOUND HERE..... But no solution....from what I read.....

 

You simply go to your local dealership and they run your vin, so have it written down. They might even tell you over the phone. Schedule an appointment and a couple hours later you are done.

 

I mean, I could be wrong here, but I`m pretty sure the Intake side of the MAF and the Filter side are the SAME SIDE.

Yes, I`m being silly.

If you have a MAFS that is fluctuating, or intermittnely cutting out, it would probably be happening WAY to fast for you to ever see it while monitoring voltages.

The only accurate way to check a MAFS in this manner is to datalog it, which we can`t do with cheap software and hardware. It simply works WAY to fast for those types of conventional checks.

 

I was using a multimeter to test the MAF voltages.......not my cheap Torque software on my Droid.

Also i called the dealer nearby and they said my car has NO open recalls on it.

 

They should be able to tell you/print off the service records on the car. I know when I had mine done they did.

 

Not what I'm saying dude. Even with A multimeter you simply cannot see the changes. Even if the multimeter reads then and displays they your eyes would not see it. Talking about milliseconds

 

ok so need an oscilloscope.....lol

 

I ride around with a spare MAF in my trunk. I'm taking no chances. Lol.

 

So I have a suspicion that I need to clean my MAF (light rough idle) . I've noticed that other people's MAFs have a straight thermosister and mine looks like this. It was like this when I got it from Autozone. Should I straighten it out?

 

the thermister is fine ... but a lesson or two on how to resize a pic before posting sure would be helpful

 

Sorry I posted that from the App on my S3....Ok so I used the CRC MAF cleaner and I just put it all back together, start it and get a SES light....P0102...Surprise Surprise....I cant take this shyt....

 

did you make sure the sensor was dry before you put it back in and fired the engine up? ( if you have a code reader) ... I would clear the code and see if it returns

 

OK false alarm.... I guess the connector wasn't on all the way.... Rookie mistake... But I'm getting the rough idle even more now... Feels like a miss fire almost to the point of stalling..... Wasn't this bad before the cleaning. No codes now either. Also did the pedal dance for all the relearns..... I think I'm going to try a 5th Gen MAF

 

When I'm on the throttle the car is 100 percent fine.... This is only at a stop and idling.

 

All I can say is... Omg what a difference. It took all of 2 minutes to swap the thermosister and reinstall the sensor. You cannot feel the car idle and all smooth as silk and and if it were for the intake whistling and loud muffler you would hear it...... Best mid that I've done yet!!!!! PLUS I GOT $160 BUCKS BACK FROM AUTOZONE FOR THE 02-03 SENSOR...... BOOYAH.

I kept the thermosister from the one I returned.... Lmao!!!!!!!