Jo_P

Hey guys, so I recently got my 02 SE (running at about 130k) checked out by my local mechanic the other day to find out why i was running through my oil so quickly. Turns out to be the worst news ever. He told me the job would run me nearly $800 and that's AFTER giving me a "break". I did some homework online and found out the job really is a PITA because either the engine or tranny needs to come out to fix it. But I also read some people having luck resealing the leak with Bar's Leaks Rear Main Seal Reapir product. Did anyone have any luck using this on their own car? If the product doesn't work, should I consider this expensive repair? I really love my A33 and would hate to throw it away. Thanks for your responses!

tosheto

iTrader: (5)

I have never used this product, but if you want to save money and know how to change the seal, change it yourself. Take out the transmission, take off the clutch, take off the cross member, take off the lower and upper oil pans and you can change it. It does take time, but if you have the tools and know how, you can do it.

Jo_P

I guess I should've mentioned the car is auto, not sure how much of a difference that makes. But I'm an ABSOLUTE novice and really have no idea about anything under the hood. I wouldn't trust myself to do the job myself unless I could find solid step by step directions somewhere.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Has your mechanic ruled out the exhaust, as in the pre-cats? If not, then

tosheto

iTrader: (5)

If the car is auto, you wont have a clutch, but things are pretty similar. If you do not know what you are doing, just pay a mechanic you trust to do it.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

I've heard on here that doing a rear main is terrible and a used replacement is better.

In any case, I don't think that's not your oil burning issue. It's what these cars do. Does yours leak all over the floor underneath?

matts95max

iTrader: (11)

The rear main seal job is not easy. Its involved and there is a lot that needs to be done the correct way, as in, there are plenty of things that can be messed up in the process.

Unless you're leaking puddles of oil under your car from the rear main seal, that is not why you are going through oil. The 3.5 engine is known for burning oil. Its a design flaw. The exact technical description is on here somewhere of how and why. But its not due to it leaking out of the rear main seal. Its getting burned up.

Back to the rear main seal. If you are not seeing puddles under your car, as in, if its just a small drip or oil on the casing, I would not worry about fixing it yet.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

x10^e10
My rear main is leaking a bit too, but there's nothing under my car.


And also, I think we can rule out the pre-cat failure as well. Some say it's the rings. Mine is beginning to eat oil @ 156k, albeit at a fairly slow rate, and I've had headers since 37k. Steadily increasing though

bullet187

I heard from other members that the rear main seals rarely go bad on 5th gens. It may be your upper oil pan that is leaking, I just had my upper oil pan resealed a few months ago and the cradle seals were as hard as a rock. The upper oil pan is about half the labor as changing out the rear main seal.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Any info on 5.5 gens? My 95 VQ30's been nice and tight since 5/95, 247k ago. Not the story on my 5.5 gen.

bullet187

Other members with 5.5 gens replaced RMS to find out later it was the upper oil pan gasket and cradle seals. You can tell if the RMS is leaking once the upper oil pan is removed. It's very common for the upper oil pans to leak, so it would be worthwhile to do change it out.