Knocking sound when turning????
Knocking sound when turning????
When I turn left, like when getting on or off the interstate, there is a quick knocking sound coming from what I can tell to be my front drivers side wheel. I feel a slight movement in the steering wheel also. I have checked the lugs and they are tight, is this a serious problem that I need to have fixed ASAP? Can this be used as an exscuse to get a new suspension?
BTW. this is the stock suspension with 110500 miles on it. Thanks for the help.
Adam
BTW. this is the stock suspension with 110500 miles on it. Thanks for the help.Adam
Uh-oh... It sounds like your CV Joint is bad. The rubber boot cracks and splits first. Then the grease spews out. Then dirt, grit, & sand gets to the joint and causes wear. Then it starts to make a clicking sound when you turn the wheel. When you hear it clicking, it's time to get the whole CV Joint replaced. FYI, you will get a reconditioned CV Joint when you have the repair done. This is common practice, as a new CV Joint is very expensive. Only repairs done under warranty may get a new CV Joint! Some folks feel when one goes bad, the other soon will, too. In which case, you might as well do both sides to get ahead of the bubble... Good luck.
Originally posted by bullseye
Uh-oh... It sounds like your CV Joint is bad. The rubber boot cracks and splits first. Then the grease spews out. Then dirt, grit, & sand gets to the joint and causes wear. Then it starts to make a clicking sound when you turn the wheel. When you hear it clicking, it's time to get the whole CV Joint replaced. FYI, you will get a reconditioned CV Joint when you have the repair done. This is common practice, as a new CV Joint is very expensive. Only repairs done under warranty may get a new CV Joint! Some folks feel when one goes bad, the other soon will, too. In which case, you might as well do both sides to get ahead of the bubble... Good luck.
Uh-oh... It sounds like your CV Joint is bad. The rubber boot cracks and splits first. Then the grease spews out. Then dirt, grit, & sand gets to the joint and causes wear. Then it starts to make a clicking sound when you turn the wheel. When you hear it clicking, it's time to get the whole CV Joint replaced. FYI, you will get a reconditioned CV Joint when you have the repair done. This is common practice, as a new CV Joint is very expensive. Only repairs done under warranty may get a new CV Joint! Some folks feel when one goes bad, the other soon will, too. In which case, you might as well do both sides to get ahead of the bubble... Good luck.
Adam
Bad CV joint
Sounds like a textbook bad CV joint description.
http://www.motorvate.ca/ - Check out the "Driveline" link.
If you're mechanically inclined, have the right tools, a good manual & have the job well mapped out, you can do this job - just keep in mind: if you get half way through it & need professional help, your car will have to be towed to a shop.
http://www.motorvate.ca/ - Check out the "Driveline" link.
If you're mechanically inclined, have the right tools, a good manual & have the job well mapped out, you can do this job - just keep in mind: if you get half way through it & need professional help, your car will have to be towed to a shop.
Re: Bad CV joint
Originally posted by KWheelzSB
Sounds like a textbook bad CV joint description.
http://www.motorvate.ca/ - Check out the "Driveline" link.
If you're mechanically inclined, have the right tools, a good manual & have the job well mapped out, you can do this job - just keep in mind: if you get half way through it & need professional help, your car will have to be towed to a shop.
Sounds like a textbook bad CV joint description.
http://www.motorvate.ca/ - Check out the "Driveline" link.
If you're mechanically inclined, have the right tools, a good manual & have the job well mapped out, you can do this job - just keep in mind: if you get half way through it & need professional help, your car will have to be towed to a shop.
Adam
Re: Re: Bad CV joint
Originally posted by The_Bomb
I can't say that I am all that mechanically inclined, but I have a friend who is getting ASE certified and I figure he can help me quite a bit. I may still have this professionally done, just trying to save some money.
Adam
I can't say that I am all that mechanically inclined, but I have a friend who is getting ASE certified and I figure he can help me quite a bit. I may still have this professionally done, just trying to save some money.
Adam
Gary
How many miles on the car. CV joints generally fail very slowly. Back in the days before I had a budget I drove-em til they were just hammering.
Also, if memory serves me, it is cheaper to replace the entire halfshaft that to do just one joint.
In my opinion it is a pain in the butt to change CV joints. A mechanic can get it up on the lift and have them changed very quickly. You on the otherhand will likely be a shadetree mechanic--rolling around on the concrete. Expect some cuts.
IMHO -- Not worth my time to do it myself (and I have changed 4 or 5 sets)
Also, if memory serves me, it is cheaper to replace the entire halfshaft that to do just one joint.
In my opinion it is a pain in the butt to change CV joints. A mechanic can get it up on the lift and have them changed very quickly. You on the otherhand will likely be a shadetree mechanic--rolling around on the concrete. Expect some cuts.
IMHO -- Not worth my time to do it myself (and I have changed 4 or 5 sets)
I bought a 95 GLE last January and it had 94K miles. I heard the clicking sound and had the dealer (who is also a family friend) look at the CV joints. They were going to replace them but found that they were bad. I haven't had any problems with the car and it still makes the clicking sound
In case anyone cares, the clicking sounds are nothing more than the bearings sliping in and out of a small grooves that develop when we drive the vehicle through turns. These bearings and bearing surfaces are not high speed (relative to bearing speeds) and therefore the chances of having a major problem due to a failure is small--usually clicking slowly gets louder until it becomes a hammering long before failure.
Originally posted by Uniden
I bought a 95 GLE last January and it had 94K miles. I heard the clicking sound and had the dealer (who is also a family friend) look at the CV joints. They were going to replace them but found that they were bad. I haven't had any problems with the car and it still makes the clicking sound
I bought a 95 GLE last January and it had 94K miles. I heard the clicking sound and had the dealer (who is also a family friend) look at the CV joints. They were going to replace them but found that they were bad. I haven't had any problems with the car and it still makes the clicking sound
Originally posted by Zealous
How many miles on the car. CV joints generally fail very slowly. Back in the days before I had a budget I drove-em til they were just hammering.
Also, if memory serves me, it is cheaper to replace the entire halfshaft that to do just one joint.
In my opinion it is a pain in the butt to change CV joints. A mechanic can get it up on the lift and have them changed very quickly. You on the otherhand will likely be a shadetree mechanic--rolling around on the concrete. Expect some cuts.
IMHO -- Not worth my time to do it myself (and I have changed 4 or 5 sets)
How many miles on the car. CV joints generally fail very slowly. Back in the days before I had a budget I drove-em til they were just hammering.
Also, if memory serves me, it is cheaper to replace the entire halfshaft that to do just one joint.
In my opinion it is a pain in the butt to change CV joints. A mechanic can get it up on the lift and have them changed very quickly. You on the otherhand will likely be a shadetree mechanic--rolling around on the concrete. Expect some cuts.
IMHO -- Not worth my time to do it myself (and I have changed 4 or 5 sets)
. Oh he says he will work on my car personally and I trust him to do the job right so this all worked out well, except for havingt to buy the new part.Adam
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