When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I guess I will start from StopLeak...anyway, not a bad leak so far.
StopLeak wont help this type of leak. Just keep an eye on it. It will slowly get worse but you've got some time before it becomes a problem. This is normal wear as you get close to 200,000 on these cars.
The leak behind the crank pulley is the front main seal. It seems to go out around the same time as the rear main. It's a much easier job to fix though.
It's possible that the oil pan is leaking but these oil pans usually don't leak unless they've been messed with. If you cleaned the area and see new oil from behind the pulley it's definitely the front main seal. I'd replace the front seal and swap both belts at the same time. Leave the rear alone until it becomes a problem.
The problem with oil leaks isn't really the loss of oil. The problem is that the oil coats the rubber suspension mounts and bushings. The oil will quickly deteriorate them leading to more expensive repairs.
Most of the time the source of leak is the half moon rubber gasket of upper oil pan. It might be the rear main seal, which will present as a massive leak. Just periodically check the engine proper oil level by following the Nissan Owners Manual. Use 10W/40W to minimized oil leak. For Front seal, you need to fix it as stated by other member.
Most of the time the source of leak is the half moon rubber gasket of upper oil pan. It might be the rear main seal, which will present as a massive leak. Just periodically check the engine proper oil level by following the Nissan Owners Manual. Use 10W/40W to minimized oil leak. For Front seal, you need to fix it as stated by other member.
And the rears aren't worth fixing. They will slowly leak forever, usually, but big whoop.
Oil pan has to come off for the crescent. I'd rather just motor swap (cmon, more 5.7s).
Last edited by Child_uv_KoRn; Jan 29, 2016 at 04:25 PM.
I just recentlygot a 2000 Maxima with the 3.0, exactly where I am leaking from in a fairly steady drip from picture on first post above. This is the first front wheel drive I have owned. I am wondering what a shop will charge to fix something like this. I have done body swaps on trucks and rear wheel drive cars, rebuilt motors, transmissions swaps. Never worked on a front wheel drive. I have a Haynes Manual being shipped to me. Currently searching the site for information on doing this repair. Any special tools required to do this? Something a home mechanic can do? I have a fairly well setup shop with quite a few tools.
I just recentlygot a 2000 Maxima with the 3.0, exactly where I am leaking from in a fairly steady drip from picture on first post above. This is the first front wheel drive I have owned. I am wondering what a shop will charge to fix something like this. I have done body swaps on trucks and rear wheel drive cars, rebuilt motors, transmissions swaps. Never worked on a front wheel drive. I have a Haynes Manual being shipped to me. Currently searching the site for information on doing this repair. Any special tools required to do this? Something a home mechanic can do? I have a fairly well setup shop with quite a few tools.
I have been finding some information and adding it to here as I find it.
I'd imagine a shop would charge a lot for the repair. It's a lot of work.
It sounds like you have the skills and shop to do it.
It can be done at home if you can get the car high enough. 4 fully extended jack stands should give you enough room. A scissor style tranny jack is very helpful too. The tranny is bulky, heavy and a tight fit so the jack helps.
Spend the money on a good RTV like Honda Bond for the oil pans.
Please identify the exact two parts which leaks here arrows point to
Originally Posted by pinellas50
I had oil leaking in the same place as well as on the other side of the engine by the crank pulley. It was the oil pan gasket.
Please identify the exact two parts which mate and the red arrow titled "leaks here" are.
Reason I'm asking is because this leak area is the lowest point on bottom of vehicle. Therefore, is it not possible the leak is above this area anarranging down to lowest point before drip? If so, what's everyones best guess. No ATF leak.
Thanks to all!!
Last edited by Reel2reel; Oct 25, 2024 at 06:57 PM.
Reason: Added more info