came to the maxima forum for a possible solution to my problem with my 1995 Nissan maximaSE, 41,000 miles, automatic transmission, bone OEM stock except for wheels and tires.

from a cold start (parked overnight) it starts right up and runs as smooth as new. I can drive it around for short trips (5 to 10 minutes) with many turn-off and restarts without any issue. I can drive it continuously for long duration (30 minutes to an hour) and it runs fine during the whole time, but it is after this longer duration drive where a turn off and restart happen, where I am getting a misfire upon restart.

if I allow it to cool down a little during the same day, the misfire continues on restarts until I allow it to be parked overnight, after which it starts and runs normally again.

any input as to where the problem may be? injectors, coil packs???

thanks in advance for experienced forum responses.

 

Have you checked for any codes? It might have one before the SES light comes on. See if there is a code.... go from there.

 

no check engine light, nothing indicated on dash indicators

 

This sounds like a low fuel pressure symptom.
Usually the injectors, sometimes the fuel pressure regulator. There is seldom a code when this occurrs.

Your car has very low miles, but is as old as any members cars. Plastic gets brittle due to mileage, perhaps time as well.

Let's see what other members say.

 

It's one of your coil packs. They are certainly easy enough to check- just turn the car on (with engine warmed up, where you are having the misfire problem) and then start pulling the coil packs one at a time. When you get to one that doesn't cause the RPM to change when pulled, there's your bad coil pack.
The reason you're not having the problem with engine cold is because the ECU is sending higher voltage to the coil packs during open loop, to warm the engine (and engine oil) up faster. This is compensating for the bad coil pack. Once it hits closed loop where the RPMs drop the ECU lowers the voltage to the coils and you start noticing the problem.

 

Injectors/Coil packs (replace with Hitachi coils)/ Check spark plugs for black tips to determine if it's running rich.

 

Add: IACV sticking and/or EGR valve stuck/failed. Usually it takes a long time before codes present. If at all.

 

UPDATE - i'd like to thank everyone for the helpful responses with my problem, however I have not been able to apply any of the suggestions. since I posted the original call for help, the problem has not repeated itself. so without being able to duplicate the issue I can't really try to fix it.

 

this problem is really starting to annoy me. I was out running errands yesterday in 90* weather and after the second "hot" restart, the miss showed up again. I figured I'd drive home right then and start to troubleshoot the issue but at the second stop light along the route home, the miss was GONE and the engine was running as smooth as it could be again.
BUT this time it did throw a check engine light. I got the code "6" "6" off the ECU/check engine light flash reading but I can't find any thing which tells me what the "6" "6" code means. anyone know so I can figure out where to start. Thanks

 

Cylinder 3 misfire as per HERE: https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Automo...a_screw_driver

That really points to an Injector and/or Coilpack. Pull the plug and report back with closeup pics of the spark end.

If it's the injector, are you prepared to go in deep and maybe replace them all (and supporting consumables) as they usually give up the ghost together over a short period of time?

 

A full bottle of Techron or Jectron System Cleaner + Shell or Chevron Gas wouldn't hurt either

 

How is the exhaust gas when the problem occurs?