stall, rattle, low idle, hard start - Maxima Forums



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stall, rattle, low idle, hard start

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Old 07-05-2018, 01:24 PM   #1  
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stall, rattle, low idle, hard start

'95 Maxima suddenly stalled in traffic at stop. several engagements of starter to get engine running. rattling noise when engine running at low RPM. noise goes away at higher RPM. Any ideas what the problem might be? idle now too low and stalls. hard to start. seems like gas flow issue. some smoke coming from engine when turned off (no odor) but the smoke did not happen before this rattle, stall issue which began twenty minutes ago. Happy to report I went to move the car and it started with no issue nor noise when moving.

Last edited by jayboydog; 07-05-2018 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 07-05-2018, 02:06 PM   #2  
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Has tge check engine light been on a while?

Are other lights on as well?
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Old 07-05-2018, 02:08 PM   #3  
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Is unusual smoke coming from the tailpipe?

If so, what color? Does it smell like unburned gasoline back there?
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Old 07-05-2018, 05:04 PM   #4  
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Check the 1st post in the following thread to determine if you have similar symptoms as shown in the video.

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...e-exhaust.html
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Old 07-06-2018, 04:28 AM   #5  
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Next time you're at the gas station ... DON'T use the green nozzle.
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Old 07-07-2018, 09:53 AM   #6  
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Heys guys, thanks for the responses. Now I know to be careful when selecting a pump nozzle at the gas station yet I had not filled with diesel. Did not notice any smoke from tail pipe. Next afternoon was 108 degrees outside. I went to the car to go to a doctor's appt. Turned the key, dashboard lights were on but silence from the starter motor. no cranking, no clicking. I juggled the battery cables and reached along the positive cable pulling from the starter motor towards the battery post but no change. Took a bus to the doc, got home and watched a youtube video about inserting a jumper wire in the socket of the starter relay to bypass some safety measures and a possible bad relay. this morning I went to the car with a voltmeter, power bank jump starter, and wire jumper. Battery measured 12.6v, I reached down between battery and firewall on driver's side and rattled the wires and connectors. turned the ignition key and car started right up! Interesting to me that I had encountered the low rpm rattling and low idle, then was able to move the car without issue after a twenty minute break, next day no cranking of starter motor, yet following morning starts fine.
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Old 07-07-2018, 10:22 AM   #7  
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Our cars have a known problem with the electrical portion of the ignition switch. It's a 30 dollar part.

Instructions are in the stickies.

I'm not saying that this is your problem, but it is a likely cause.
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Old 07-08-2018, 03:27 PM   #8  
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Day after taking bus was hot too. Although at 9 AM, engine started easily but at 3 PM NO CRANKING WHEN TURNING KEY. Lifted hood and jiggled wires/connectors on driver's side between battery and firewall. Engine started. Drove 3 miles RT to Post Office and back. At 7 PM engine started easily to drive 3.5 miles RT to Walgreens and back.

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Old 07-08-2018, 03:40 PM   #9  
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Well you seem pretty determined it's got something to do with the wiring on the firewall why not have someone hold it one direction and test it 5times, hold it in another direction test it 5 times, etc. I do think the ignition switch is a good item to check
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Old 07-11-2018, 10:32 PM   #10  
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Several days later (four) I went to the car but no cranking. this after starting each day for four miles errands. I lift the hood and jiggle the wires between battery and firewall and pull the positive battery cables. still no cranking. Next I lift the top off the fuse case on the front driver's side wheel well near the battery. I saw one fuse socket marked IGN and pulled it out. There were two pins and I put it back. I touched/wiggled a couple of other fuses then put the top back on the fuse case. Turn the key and the starter cranks. Yes I am aware of faulty ignition switch operated by key and yet it is interesting that jiggling cables or fuses corrects whatever was preventing the starter cranking.

Last edited by jayboydog; 07-11-2018 at 10:35 PM.
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Old 07-11-2018, 10:57 PM   #11  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayboydog View Post
Several days later (four) I went to the car but no cranking. this after starting each day for four miles errands. I lift the hood and jiggle the wires between battery and firewall and pull the positive battery cables. still no cranking. Next I lift the top off the fuse case on the front driver's side wheel well near the battery. I saw one fuse socket marked IGN and pulled it out. There were two pins and I put it back. I touched/wiggled a couple of other fuses then put the top back on the fuse case. Turn the key and the starter cranks. Yes I am aware of faulty ignition switch operated by key and yet it is interesting that jiggling cables or fuses corrects whatever was preventing the starter cranking.
Jiggling wires would help if it were a broken wire. But thats not gonna be the case unless you yourself caused it. Pulling the fuse has nothing in common with jiggling wires. You're just getting lucky and are 0% closer to solving your issue.


Last edited by Violator; 07-11-2018 at 11:08 PM.
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Old 07-11-2018, 11:02 PM   #12  
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Hard starting usual is a sign of a fuel pump going out not able to pump enough volume/quanity to the engine...Or a defective water temp sensor...You might want to pull your codes!
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Old 07-11-2018, 11:23 PM   #13  
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Hard starting usual is a sign of a fuel pump going out not able to pump enough volume/quanity to the engine...Or a defective water temp sensor...You might want to pull your codes!
Pull your codes. They have fuel pressure gauges you can borrow from the auto stores to test your fuel pump. The crankshaft sensor on the front of the car below the exhaust can cause no starts or hard starts or rough running of the engine. Many things can, the MAF, fuel pump, injectors, coil packs, the crank and cam sensors. The "rattling" noise could of been many things, if an engine isn't running right it will tend to shake, this could be indirectly causing the rattle in a number of ways from anywhere on the car.

The issue could be anything that's been listed so far but most of them will give you a check engine light and a code to be read at an auto store telling you what's wrong
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Old 07-18-2018, 09:44 PM   #14  
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Check if you have injector signal, check for ignition, check your Water temp sensor!
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