stall, rattle, low idle, hard start - Maxima Forums



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stall, rattle, low idle, hard start

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Old 07-05-2018, 01:24 PM   #1  
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stall, rattle, low idle, hard start

'95 Maxima suddenly stalled in traffic at stop. several engagements of starter to get engine running. rattling noise when engine running at low RPM. noise goes away at higher RPM. Any ideas what the problem might be? idle now too low and stalls. hard to start. seems like gas flow issue. some smoke coming from engine when turned off (no odor) but the smoke did not happen before this rattle, stall issue which began twenty minutes ago. Happy to report I went to move the car and it started with no issue nor noise when moving.

Last edited by jayboydog; 07-05-2018 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 07-05-2018, 02:06 PM   #2  
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Has tge check engine light been on a while?

Are other lights on as well?
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Old 07-05-2018, 02:08 PM   #3  
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Is unusual smoke coming from the tailpipe?

If so, what color? Does it smell like unburned gasoline back there?
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Old 07-05-2018, 05:04 PM   #4  
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Check the 1st post in the following thread to determine if you have similar symptoms as shown in the video.

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...e-exhaust.html
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Old 07-06-2018, 04:28 AM   #5  
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Next time you're at the gas station ... DON'T use the green nozzle.
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Old 07-07-2018, 09:53 AM   #6  
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Heys guys, thanks for the responses. Now I know to be careful when selecting a pump nozzle at the gas station yet I had not filled with diesel. Did not notice any smoke from tail pipe. Next afternoon was 108 degrees outside. I went to the car to go to a doctor's appt. Turned the key, dashboard lights were on but silence from the starter motor. no cranking, no clicking. I juggled the battery cables and reached along the positive cable pulling from the starter motor towards the battery post but no change. Took a bus to the doc, got home and watched a youtube video about inserting a jumper wire in the socket of the starter relay to bypass some safety measures and a possible bad relay. this morning I went to the car with a voltmeter, power bank jump starter, and wire jumper. Battery measured 12.6v, I reached down between battery and firewall on driver's side and rattled the wires and connectors. turned the ignition key and car started right up! Interesting to me that I had encountered the low rpm rattling and low idle, then was able to move the car without issue after a twenty minute break, next day no cranking of starter motor, yet following morning starts fine.
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Old 07-07-2018, 10:22 AM   #7  
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Our cars have a known problem with the electrical portion of the ignition switch. It's a 30 dollar part.

Instructions are in the stickies.

I'm not saying that this is your problem, but it is a likely cause.
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Old 07-08-2018, 03:27 PM   #8  
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Day after taking bus was hot too. Although at 9 AM, engine started easily but at 3 PM NO CRANKING WHEN TURNING KEY. Lifted hood and jiggled wires/connectors on driver's side between battery and firewall. Engine started. Drove 3 miles RT to Post Office and back. At 7 PM engine started easily to drive 3.5 miles RT to Walgreens and back.

Last edited by jayboydog; 07-08-2018 at 03:31 PM.
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Old 07-08-2018, 03:40 PM   #9  
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Well you seem pretty determined it's got something to do with the wiring on the firewall why not have someone hold it one direction and test it 5times, hold it in another direction test it 5 times, etc. I do think the ignition switch is a good item to check
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Old 07-11-2018, 10:32 PM   #10  
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Several days later (four) I went to the car but no cranking. this after starting each day for four miles errands. I lift the hood and jiggle the wires between battery and firewall and pull the positive battery cables. still no cranking. Next I lift the top off the fuse case on the front driver's side wheel well near the battery. I saw one fuse socket marked IGN and pulled it out. There were two pins and I put it back. I touched/wiggled a couple of other fuses then put the top back on the fuse case. Turn the key and the starter cranks. Yes I am aware of faulty ignition switch operated by key and yet it is interesting that jiggling cables or fuses corrects whatever was preventing the starter cranking.

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Old 07-11-2018, 10:57 PM   #11  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayboydog View Post
Several days later (four) I went to the car but no cranking. this after starting each day for four miles errands. I lift the hood and jiggle the wires between battery and firewall and pull the positive battery cables. still no cranking. Next I lift the top off the fuse case on the front driver's side wheel well near the battery. I saw one fuse socket marked IGN and pulled it out. There were two pins and I put it back. I touched/wiggled a couple of other fuses then put the top back on the fuse case. Turn the key and the starter cranks. Yes I am aware of faulty ignition switch operated by key and yet it is interesting that jiggling cables or fuses corrects whatever was preventing the starter cranking.
Jiggling wires would help if it were a broken wire. But thats not gonna be the case unless you yourself caused it. Pulling the fuse has nothing in common with jiggling wires. You're just getting lucky and are 0% closer to solving your issue.


Last edited by Violator; 07-11-2018 at 11:08 PM.
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Old 07-11-2018, 11:02 PM   #12  
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Hard starting usual is a sign of a fuel pump going out not able to pump enough volume/quanity to the engine...Or a defective water temp sensor...You might want to pull your codes!
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Old 07-11-2018, 11:23 PM   #13  
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Originally Posted by CMax03 View Post
Hard starting usual is a sign of a fuel pump going out not able to pump enough volume/quanity to the engine...Or a defective water temp sensor...You might want to pull your codes!
Pull your codes. They have fuel pressure gauges you can borrow from the auto stores to test your fuel pump. The crankshaft sensor on the front of the car below the exhaust can cause no starts or hard starts or rough running of the engine. Many things can, the MAF, fuel pump, injectors, coil packs, the crank and cam sensors. The "rattling" noise could of been many things, if an engine isn't running right it will tend to shake, this could be indirectly causing the rattle in a number of ways from anywhere on the car.

The issue could be anything that's been listed so far but most of them will give you a check engine light and a code to be read at an auto store telling you what's wrong
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Old 07-18-2018, 09:44 PM   #14  
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Check if you have injector signal, check for ignition, check your Water temp sensor!
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Old 08-03-2018, 07:17 PM   #15  
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Thanks for all the comments. It's been four weeks since the first time car stalled. I had noticed the negative cable clamp on the battery was loose. needed to reshape the clamp so I could use the nut and bolt to tighten the clamp further. I took the clamp off the battery post, used a wire brush on the post and clamp, then placed a metal rod that is a long rectangle 1/8" wide between the bolt and circle of the clamp and squeezed the circle with a vise grip wrench. car was running fine for two miles and then stalled. I believe the rattling sound is the valves from incomplete combustion. returned home. I hope the problem is the negative battery cable clamp and hope the fuel pump is ok. I had been told the fuel pump pressure was low a couple years ago but had not done anything about the fuel pump pressure. the problem occurs when the engine is hot. Seems to start and run fine while cold. No evidence of water mixing with oil but seems as if water is getting into the combustion.

Last edited by jayboydog; 08-04-2018 at 04:59 PM.
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Old 08-03-2018, 08:20 PM   #16  
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The valves are not rattling from incomplete combustion.

you need to have the battery charged.

you need to clean the battery terminals and the battery posts.

you especially need help from someone who truly knows about cars. Like a real mechanic.

Because your sources dont. seem to have a clue.



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Old 08-04-2018, 06:23 PM   #17  
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I would buy a new negative battery cable with the clamp on it. Dies not cost all that much money.

That may or may not fix the current issue, but will prevent other problems in the future.

Cars need current flow or amps to be abLe to function properly. The replacement battery clamps cause a lot of problem's. They should be thought of as a temporarystopportunity gap solution until one can buy the proper cable.
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Old 08-06-2018, 03:47 PM   #18  
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The no crank issue

Please quit ignoring replacing the switchCheap,easy,and if you keep pulling on 20 year old wires you will undoubtably create a problem.
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Old 08-09-2018, 01:36 PM   #19  
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Frank50e "Please quit ignoring replacing the switch" what switch is this referring to?

each day the engine starts and runs fine for the first two miles until the engine heats. yesterday I unconnected the two temperature sensors' wires from front of car on drivers side of engine. did not affect the poor engine performance. I plan to reconnect the temperature sensors' wires and disconnect the throttle control sensor wire to see how this affects.
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Old 08-09-2018, 05:30 PM   #20  
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The two switches which were mentioned were

1. ignition switch, because your car would not crank

The battery cable and it's terminals would also cause this.

2. The ects,or engine control temperature switch.
It is quite likely the reason your car stalls once the engine warms up. Its job is to report the temperature of the coolant to the computer. The computer will adjust how much fuel the injectors provide. Also timing. It's possible that the engine is not getting enough fuel to run, hence the stalling.

You can check to see if it good or not with an ohm meter and some research about what the readings should be. Or you can just buy a new one and replace it.

You have received some good advice from several
respected members. You need to follow through.

You also need to respond to the direct questions we have asked you.

Specifically, is your check engine light on? If so.have you investigated which codes they are?

We can be far more helpful once we have the codes. We are only guessing what the problem might be until we have the codes.


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Last edited by JvG; 08-10-2018 at 12:18 PM. Reason: Spell check
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Old 08-09-2018, 10:56 PM   #21  
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Ignition switch

As pointed out above.
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Old 08-15-2018, 09:00 PM   #22  
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2 miles and the problem begins as engine is warmed up.

When the coolant temperature sensor wire was disconnected, the check engine light turned on. After reconnecting the coolant temp sensor wires I drove another two or three times. After going two miles without any sense of malfunction, the engine stalls and when driving at 20 MPH or faster I am not getting a good combustion. Read the flashing codes today before driving two miles, stopping to pick up some online orders from a shoe store and drove 2 miles back home. Made it to within a quarter mile of home when the stall occured. Not getting good combustion the final 350 yards.

Codes are:
0504 auto trans control unit.
0707 rear O2 sensor.
0103 engine coolant temp sensor.
0304 knock sensor.

At this point I believe the problem is a fuel delivery issue. the coolant temp sensor was most likely triggered when I had the wire disconnected. Auto trans control unit might be a response to my double pedaling to keep the engine RPM from getting too low.

Last edited by jayboydog; 08-15-2018 at 09:02 PM.
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