Went to start my car. It turned over a couple of times and then went dead. The battery checks out fine. I have a PO335 code. I have been having intermittent starter problems, where he starter clicks but doesn't start. After a couple of tries, it would start. I suspect the starter has finally given out. Any input is appreciated..... Is there a starter fuse of some kind?

 

P 0335 code is crankshaft position sensor.

Looks like you have at least two two issues.

 

The way you describe the cranking problem sounds like a weak battery problem. Who tested the battery an how was it tested. You should try to put some jumper cables on when it won't start and see what happens. If it starts, you have a bad battery.

But it could be the starter. A bad starter solenoid could do about the same thing.

P0335 is the crankshaft sensor for the flywheel. It will not cause your cranking problems. It could be a false code caused by the engine not cranking over fast enough for the sensor to create a signal. If the sensor is bad, the engine will crank all day but never start.

 

Battery tested about 13 volts. It will not start with a jump. Having previous starter problems, I am pulling the starter today and see if I can test it out of the car.

 

***UPDATE*** Happy 4th of July. I slapped in a new starter from Autozone. Looked like a re-boxed Hitachi with 11 teeth. My old one was a Hitachi with 10 teeth. PITA to get out after 21 years. Car starts right up, no codes, happy Independence Day!

 

Excellent!

 

Having pretty much the same issue myself. My 99 Max will crank all day, but wont start. The car was running fine but the CEL was on. Ran that code and it came back with a P1320. Everything I read on that was for a bad ignition coil. Makes sense as the coils on the car are still the OEM equipment. Pulled the front 3 coils and tested with a multimeter. Put the coils back on the sparkplugs and reconnected the wiring connectors and the car hasnt started since. It is now showing a P0335 code for the crankshaft sensor. I can clear the code and try and start the car and the code comes right back. After reading countless threads on this I replaced both crankshaft sensors. No luck. Then I replaced the battery and the starter as well. Still no luck. Also tried an additional ground wire from the battery to the transmission with no success. Ordered some new leads for my multimeter so i can test the sub-harness and connectors more thoroughly. I have not tried the camshaft sensor yet since the code was for the crankshaft sensor but I have read that the camshaft sensor could be the culprit as well. Any other ideas on what else to test? Thanks in advance!

 

Ive been sick the past week so I havent been doing much but im having the same exact issue...
What Im looking into now is the Anti-Theft system... Im seeing that that could cause a crank no start

I dont have a key fob and am not sure how to get around it so Ive been pulling fuses seeing if that works but im still sick so I put about an hour in today and am feeling like taking a nap

any sense it being the anti-theft system? the red security light flashes and sometimes the power shuts off entirely

 

Everything I read says that if the anti-theft system is engaged that the red light will stay on solid instead of flashing. Mine is flashing so I dont think anti-theft is the issue. It would be odd that just pulling a coil pack off to test could cause the anti-theft activation especially since I unplugged the battery before I did so but stranger things have happened. Are you showing any CEL codes on yours?

 

I thought only the 99s had a factory anti theft system?

 

Im seeing that unplugging the battery for extended periods can trigger the antitheft if its faulty or something like that.
I had the camshaft code
now its just showing the evap purge code, which I dont think would mess up starting p1445

There is a crank no start thread from 2012 where someone mentioned the antitheft system without a fix, I replied maybe they can help out

Do you know how to get rid of the antitheft entirely? im willing to cut cables

 

Only the 99 4th Gens have anti-theft so no need to cut anything!

 

so what is the flashing security light thing for?

 

and why are there antitheft fuses and relays

 

I just spent an hour taking out the antitheft fuses and relays and trying to start the car hoping it would somehow work and my dumbass still kind of believes you...

are you saying only the 99 will stop the car from starting if the antitheft is tripped or whatever?
theres also the inhibitor that might do something when the antitheft goes off...
Im just learning about this and recovering from illness so you could be right



but I mean the top pic is from the internet and the bottom two from my car the 7.5A fuse on the bottom of the top pic and the third blue relay on the bottom in the bottom pic are both labeled antitheft

 

also my steering fluid is low, but I like the way it handles like that is there a problem? I am not saying I know what Im talking about, just this 1996 maxima definitely has an antitheft system and an inhibitor

but tbh with how weird this car acts to me I dont doubt it could have been a 1999 that went back in time or some**** to mess with me

 

Not sure brotha as I dont own a 96 but from everything I've read there is no NATS (Nissan Anti-Theft System) on 98 and older.

 

I also recall there being a possible ground issue between trans and engine, causing hard starts. There's a few threads on it like this one below. I believe you can do a quick test by grounding certain parts of the trans to see if it solves the issue.

Hard Starts: Tranny to Engine Grounding?? - Maxima Forums

 

UPDATE: Tested both crankshaft sensor harness' tonight with a voltmeter. Continuity and signal wires both tested fine. However the positive wire is only showing roughly 10 volts at both of the crankshaft sensors. Anybody know if not having a full 12 volts at the sensor could cause a no start? Also I pulled all the coils and tested them too. 5 of 6 coils ohmed out at 11 ohms while the 6th only ohmed out at 7 ohms. Anybody know if that could cause a no start? One last thing, I pulled the camshaft sensor inspected it and cleaned it as well. Didnt look outta sorts or anything and voltage tested at 12 volts. Starting to think at this point maybe my ECU crapped out.

 

So turns out I'm a damn idiot.....and apparently an even worse mechanic. Got my no start issue solved today. It was a damn 10 amp fuse under the hood for the ECM. I think what happened is when I initially went to check the engine coils I did not disconnect the battery first. I think it may have still had charge thus shorting the circuit. The fuse did what it was designed to do and took the hit saving the ECU. Anywho been chasing my damn tail for almost 2 weeks over a 10 cent fuse. Lesson learned! Always start with the basics. Also the below video helped me out in breaking down my analysis. Hope it helps someone else

You Tube