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I am having trouble installing this. I cannot figure out how to cinch the lock nut down on the rack shaft.
The inner tie rod end I removed didn't even have a lock nut (this rack was a complete re manufactured replacement).
I have indeed used thread locker on this new EV 352 - but I want to use the lock nut too. The tabs on the lock nut face toward you (towards the new part) and then you're supposed to cinch down the rim of the lock nut (that's behind the ball joint...right?)
I cannot get enough leverage on the rim flange to lock it down. I've tried various vice grips but can't seem to make it happen.
3. Securely stake the tab washer to rack in two places by using a punch (the rack has notches for this purpose).
NOTE this does NOT seem to mean "Use a punch to bend the two tabs closet to the rack notches into the notches" - I know, because I tried that, and a) it didn't get tight enough and b) I ruined the lock nut.
"Does any parts house in Houston, TX carry Moog EV 352 ? Of _course_ they don't." Replacement part will be here on TUESDAY.
There is no room to swing a hammer to hit a punch. What I need is...a pair of pliers that I would use from the wheel side, with jaws turned 90deg to clinch down on the locking flange rim.
I posted some photos in the hope of enticing interest.
I believe these Moog inner tie rod parts are the same as OEM (they look the same as the diagram in the FSM) - so I'm kinda confused about having so much trouble, its not like I'm re-inventing the wheel here right (see what I did there).
I do not think that bending tabs on this Installation step is the answer - there'd be no way to make sure the clocking was right (for starters - note how on this one less than half of one of the larger tabs aligns with the flats on the rack) PLUS like I said before bending the tabs doesn't lock the washer into place.
The answer is to "clinch" (the verb used in the FSM, Page ST-21) the inside ring of the locking washer onto the flats of the rack. I am...shocked...that there's not more on this forum about how to actually DO that...I see some people saying to "skip the locking ring, there's no way it's coming out of the rack once its attached to the secured outer tie rod end, and the threadlocker is enough in any event" and, well...I just don't think I can skip what looks like a fairly standard safety step and still put my kids (or even me) in the car. Its in the FSM.
I did use Blue Threadlocker despite @KP11520;s preference for Red - that's good, because I already had to take it apart again once already. This project has turned into a sh*t storm because I don't have the tools to "clinch" the washer's locking ring, nor any reference for how to do so.
A giant pair of pliers shaped like a super-curved pair of hemostats could maybe get this done...but there's no mention of that anywhere that I found. The jaws have to be precision enough to get up on the relatively narrow locking washer flange (instead of the broad area where you apply the inner tie rod tool).
What to do? What am I missing ?
the scene of the crime new moog inner tie rod torqued to rack the locking washer with the tabs around the inner tie rod the backside of the locking washer, showing the inner ring and the flat spot on the rack (there's another one 180deg around)
Last edited by reallywildstuff; Nov 21, 2019 at 07:29 PM.
I just wrapped up a total suspension overhaul on my 99: LCA's, sway bar links / bushings, inner / outer tie rods and SenSen "speedy struts" (ride quality of the SenSen struts surprised me - nice and firm, quiet ride. felt just like the KYB GR2's, no noises like I had with the Monroe quick struts).
Anyway, I was in the exact same predicament as you with the inner TR - I also went with the Moog setup. Ultimately, I used loctite, torqued it down to spec and put on the outer TR. The car rides like a dream.
I am following your thread to see what you can come up with, because there was no feasible way for me to bend those tabs backward. And I felt like even if I did manage to bend them back, they wouldn't really be very snug on the rack anyway, so I questioned whether they would even be serving a purpose.
Thanks for posting this, because I'm sure there are others out there who were (or will be) in the same situation.
Also, thanks for your reply, Jsutter. Although I used the blue loctite (Advance AP didn't have the red one), I feel a little more confident that things will hold up.
Brian, don't let that OCD thing make you nuts. I told you use whatever thread locker and you'll be fine. I used Red. Blue will work just as well as the Inner TR doesn't get much twist shear.
Maybe Nissan Dealers have a custom tool that's offset and can squeeze at both points, but the rest of the world relies on threadlocker, as JSutter said. Maybe if you had a lift and can get at better angles with some creative tool purposing, you could find a way, but forget it if on your back. Move on to the bellows and use that "Extra" care on making sure they won't pull loose.Then outers and an alignment.
If you can't let it go, get 2 BBs (BB gun) and tape them in place over the ring and notches under the ring (NOT the tabs) and use some sort of channel lock pliers if they're fitted well enough to work the angle and lack of access and SQUEEZE!
Hope all is well. Bumping to check on your progress. Interested to read how this project turned out for you. All is still well on my side with the blue loctite solution.
Reallywildstuff,
I am following your thread to see what you can come up with, because there was no feasible way for me to bend those tabs backward. And I felt like even if I did manage to bend them back, they wouldn't really be very snug on the rack anyway, so I questioned whether they would even be serving a purpose.
So...having no way to secure them - did you leave them installed (inside the boot) at all?
So...having no way to secure them - did you leave them installed (inside the boot) at all?
I did leave them on. At that point, I had already applied the loctite and the washers were in place. When I realized there was no easy way to clamp down the washers, I didn't want to back the rods out again and upset the bond, so I left it as is.
i bought some cheap, weird chinesium pliers at Empire Tools as shown and used magnets laid on the flats / over the inner rim of the locking tab to crimp/compress the locking tab onto the rack flats
it was a chore to keep the locking tab secure/tight on the backside of the inner tie rod while also crimping the rim. finally i got it to a point where the tab was tight on both the rack and the inner tie rod inside end
smaller 11" pliers 11" packaging details larger 16" pliers 16" packaging details two magnets see - they're magnets, they stick together inner tie rod end ready for crimping magnets installed on flats and over locking ring rim 16" pliers crimping the magnets on the flats another view of 16" pliers crimping onto magnets on the flats box of magnets details of magnet packaging
Nice work. Thanks for posting this method, it will surely help out others who find themselves in our predicament. I have a set of those pliers as well, but I didn't think of getting some magnets. Thank you.
