My 95 maxima was running rough and struggling to start so I replaced both valve cover gaskets and all 6 fuel injectors. After replacing the rear gasket and all 6 injectors I was able to start the car and drive it around the block. I then replaced the front valve cover gasket and after putting the car back together it will crank and not start. After testing a few more things I found out the fuel pressure is fine and there is a spark on each cylinder. I then replaced both crankshaft sensors and still no start. I feel like this is a timing issue because I cleaned and checked every ground and attached another ground from the engine block to the chassis to be sure I didn't have a faulty ground from the battery. I also switched out my starter to rule that out since it was under life warranty. The car now cranks pretty well (better than it did before I started these repairs) but it won't catch. I checked all my fuses and I have been looking at other forums and this problem seems to exist but I haven't found it answered yet. When I turn the key to the first position I hear a buzzing (sounds like a pump running and vibrating) below the starter somewhere. I get no RPMs and after I stop trying to turn it over my radiator fan kicks on briefly for less than half a second then shuts off. I have been trying to read up on this and I am now at a dead end, any help would be much appreciated. Sorry for all the detail, some may be unnecessary, but I hope someone will know what's happening.

 

Did you install a new intake manifold gasket?
how about the gasket on the egr tube?

try to start the car while your foot is pressing on the gas pedal about an inch. Will it run then?

I'm suspecting a vacuum leak .

 

I installed a new manifold gasket but not the one on the egr tube. I have tried to give it gas while starting and doesn't make a difference. Also it started up after I replaced the exhaust manifold it was after I did the front gasket that I noticed problems. I doubt it is the egr gasket but i may just throw a new one on there if I cant think of anything else. QUOTE=JvG;9222129]Did you install a new intake manifold gasket?
how about the gasket on the egr tube?

try to start the car while your foot is pressing on the gas pedal about an inch. Will it run then?

I'm suspecting a vacuum leak .[/QUOTE]

 

Its not a timing issue. You don't have control of that.

it ran before you worked on it.

retrace your steps. Check for vacccum leaks

 

I've gone over my vacuum lines now twice and I had a buddy check my work out just in case I missed something stupid. The buzzing sound also appeared after all of this so I assume it is related, any idea what the buzzing sound is?

 

It ran before you worked on the front valve cover again. As I recall, there is a hose which connects to the valve cover. There could be an air leak.

I'll look at mine in the morning and look for what might have gone wrong with your car.

 

Going by memory again. . . The egr system has gaskets on both sides if the tube which looks like a door handle. The car won't run right if they leak or are not installed correctly. How well did the car run when you took it around the block.

Also, how did the car run before you replaced the injectors......

hmm..... a question....... did you remember to put oil on the injector seals before you installed them?
Some members did not oil the O ring seals on the injectors. That causes them to rip. Which will create a vacuum leak.

 

Thanks, I'm pretty sure I coated them but now thinking I may have forgotten. It sounds like the next thing I should try, I'll go through and take them out and oil them tomorrow morning.

 

Did you check the cam position sensor up top by the timing cover? They sometimes have a leaky o-ring issue. A cheap part to replace if it is also bad.

 

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​​​You would have remembered oiling the O rings.
So I'm going to guess you didn't do that.
You will notice some which are ripped or distorted.
All of those will need to be replaced with new ones.
Be sure to oil them. Several members didn't oil them either. You aren't the first .
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Vacuum leak is the problem more than likely...

 

Check for continuity on the crank sensors, ref and crank pos. you could have broken crank sensor wire in the harness. check the fsm how to do this.

 

Pulled my fuel injectors and one O ring has a small chuck out of the side. Ordered 6 more and egr gasket, will update with result when I put them in Friday

 

Before you go nuts on those other things, follow the FSM and do the continuity test on your crank sensor, both of them. My issue was a broken/melted harness and it was the crank sensor by the oil pan.

I ran a bypass wire to the ECU and car started right up.

Another issue could be the sensor by the transmission, one screw holds it in place and it sees the starter ring. If that sensor isn’t sitting properly, your car will crank all day and not start. These are the issues I had when my car would not start. Check those things before going forward. It could be an intermittent issue starting then not starting after you drive and turn the car off. That drove me nuts for a long while till some guys here on the Org helped me out.

 

You could had just ordered fuel injector o-rings. But anyway, that should be the issue, because it will leak too much gasoline causing crank-no-start.

 

Jack, you are referring to leaking pintil caps. Which would leak gas though the injectors. The result would be over fueling.

I'm referring to ripped O rings around the injector.
which would cause a vacuum leak.

two very different things.

 

Others have mentioned doing a continuity test on the wiring harness between the ecu and the crank and cam sensors. That does make sense.
Sometimes a bad connection or a ripped wire can make the car act like it does.

I've believed the vacuum leak because the car did run before you replaced the front valve cover.

I'm thinking that problems with the crank and cam position sensors would set a check engine light code

You have not mentioned any thing about codes yet.

Is the cel light on?

have you scanned for codes ?

 

or.. yea. That. But anyway, o-rings, pintil caps, they could all be ordered separately from the fuel injector itself because OP made it seem like he ordered 6 new injectors altogether.

 

Jack, I agree. It does seem like he ordered another set of injectors. Ouch. The financial cost is rapidly rising.

 

Hi bryan did you check the problem out did you get any stored codes from the ecu, if any try that first and then report back with us. I am thinking you can have.anything from electrical to mechanical just check the work you did on the injectors look and follow through or backstep on what you did last.
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bryan, it's brian i also have a 95 and went through hell trying to get it running right. it does sound like vacuum leak as some others have indicated. did you check over the entire intake from front to back to make sure you have proper vacuum? i was actually missing and elbow for the intake and the rubber around the intake box was leaking. check all rubber gaskets and make sure all the pieces are there.

 

I once rushed my rear valve cover job and putting everything back together. I went to start my car it would stumble and misfire i was mad and scared what, i do know i thought the injector was leaking it smelled like gas it was leaking. I was mad so i had a can of brake cleaner and i used that and i pin pointed or sprayed where the problem was and the car idle went back to normal and the car was running right than it went back to misfire and rumbling. I found out it was the egr gasket that was not full seated in its place. I re-did the egr pipe and it's gasket and the problem was solved it went away the car started to run again. It's possible that it was a vaccum leak or a disconnected harmess or coil injector harness.

 

How would you know if that sensor is "sitting properly" since there is only one bolt holding it in place and it is subject to a little bit of play? Reason I ask is because I have a 99 max with a crank/no start issue. It is showing a P0335 code so I replaced both crankshaft sensors with no luck. Tested the wiring at both sensors and strangely I am only getting roughly 10 volts at each of the sensors. Battery shows 12.4 volts. Gonna check fuses later today but was curious as to your thoughts? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

Turns out it was indeed a damn 10 amp fuse under the hood that protects the ECU.

 

could a bad wire on crank sensor or cam sensor or the sensor by the transmission… cause an engine control fuse #2 10A to blow?

’99 maxima gle- had to simply replace coolant hose by egr, yet had to pull full UiM off to get it done. Afterwards, drove and ran fine for a couple days, then high idle 1500rpm in park & neutral.. then cleaned MAF & air filter.
Now will crank, blow eng cont 2 fuse and not start.

could coolant leak have damaged O2 sensor or other sensors around transmission and y-pipe?

im not experienced testing wires.

check my page, started a thread on my issue.