So the positive battery cable on my 95 Maxima needs to be replaced because the terminal itself is rusty and part of it is splitting. Also one of the cable is corroded through. However, I notice there’s 3 cables total that connects to the terminal. One goes straight to the terminal. The other 2 connects to a red thingy that connects to the battery terminal. So from my understanding I would have to cut all 3 cables then connect them to the new terminal? Is the red piece necessary or can I just cut the 2 smaller cable from just before the connector?

 

Search my dude.

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ery-cable.html

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...connector.html

 

The red part is a fusible link. Try to save it, if not don't worry. I chopped mine off on several cars, no issues.

Do you know kind of terminal do you want to replace it with? I'll try and dig up some pics of my various setup.

EDIT, I have a pic in the second link above. A cheap parts store terminal and one or two crimp rings will do the job.

 

So I would need something like this?

I see some at autozone like this one, but I don't think it will work since I need at least 2 connection? (1 for the big wire and for the 2 smaller wires I would group them into one?) Is that how I would connect the wire to the new terminal?
https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s..._1099985_23849

Is the red fusable link savable since it's part of the old terminal? Also mine is all corroded on the inside.

 

You could salvage it if the part with the bolt hole if the metal is strong enough. You can take it all apart and clean it if need be. I cut off all the rot and bolted it to a modern Nissan terminal before I replaced the whole thing. It worked, it was just ugly.

I tried the one in the Amazon link. I would not recommend it. I wasted at least an hour trying to make them work. NOTHING about them worked. The set screws chewed right though the wires and then stripped. They don't fit on the battery well either.

The generic red and black have been my go to. My only complaint is if you need a jump. It's hard to attach jumper cables to paint.

 

Modded stock stuff (big red wire is for stero).

Generic terminals and rings.

 

Thank you for the picture I really appreciate it. It really helps me out since I'm completely new to this kind of thing. So if I can save the fusable link I can just turn it around and put it through the bolt then tighten it with the nut? As far as the black wire go, so I must cut it to fit onto the new terminal right? What do you call the thing with the sleeve that covers the exposed wires and goes to a circle piece that bolts down with the nut? Can you list all the parts I need to do this? I'm new to this so I want to make sure I know what I'm doing before cutting the wire.

 

Technically, there's nothing special needed for the generic terminals. Just strip the insulation back to clean wire and clamp into the new terminal. You could also stuff the smaller positive wires in there too if the fusible link is not worth saving.

I like to use copper ring lugs, just a matter of preference, and I have a few more wires added as well. I have used different sizes depending on what I had on hand or what I could get in a pinch. The 2 smaller wires go to the fuse box, they are around 8-10 gauge I think. You can group them together into one lug (4 gauge) or keep them separate (two 8 gauge lugs). The size of the hole is also dependent on the terminal used. The first pic (newer Nissan terminal) is probably 5/16" and the other red one is 1/4".

 

Can I use these ring terminal from home depot? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-...-102/205846711

Does this process require soldering?

So if I want to use the terminal from your second picture with the 2 screws and I want to save the fusible link, Can I clamp the bigger cable into the terminal and use the one of the nut to hold down the fusible link?

 

123456

 

These terminal from Walmart works fine?

https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart...tion/541344450

And the big wire that goes to the starter is 4 gauge?

 

That style of clamp is trouble. Corrosion occurs between the cable and the clamp. Particularly in areas where road salt is used. That creates a no start condition.

O' Reilly sells a different style of clamp for a boy 7 bucks. It has a loop on one end which lookes like out oem one.

I sawed off most of the oem clamp my car has. This leave's just the original cable - to oem clamp connection and the hole which the bolt goes through. I drilled a larger hole on either the oem clamp stub or the new clamp so that the bolt would go through it. Then I attached the clamp to the cable with the bolt. That worked very well for me.

 

Do you have a picture or link to the clamp you're talking about that Oreilly sell? Also can you send me picture of the terminal setup you have on your car? I'm new to this type of stuff so pictures really help me out.

 

Not sure what you're smoking, but those are perfect terminals. They are an excellent conductor, a lead alloy which actually reduces the natural galvanic oxidation process (accelerated with the presence of actual electricity, such as a battery terminal) of mismatched metals. Clean everything up, make good connections, apply a coating of terminal protector (CRC) if you're that worried about it, and have a nice day. Pop the hood once a year and do some maintenance for god's sake.

 

I beg to differ. I gave used that style of terminal in the past on a couple of cars. I had corrosion issues on them.

the other style of terminal I'm discribbing closely matches the one the car came with.

I'll try to post a photo of what I did tomorrow.

 

They all corrode. Regular inspecting, cleaning, and spraying them with a protectant is what needs to be done no matter what.

 

I looked up the other type of replacement battery clamp which resembles the one which came on our car. You can find it at th O' Reilly website. I found them in theit store next to the batteries.

it's called a Super Start P/N 01346.

User 1, no need to be an ash hole.

 

I have them. They are not as good as the ones from the auto parts stores. They are cheaper money because they are cheaper quality.

4 gauge sounds about right.