Just picked up a 96 SE 5-speed. First Nissan I've ever owned in my life. Couldn't beat the price and finding an affordable 5-speed full size GM is near impossible, so here we go.

I was able to drive it home, knowing the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinders were both bad. Parts for this car seem to be very affordable.

So, as I was removing the clutch master cylinder, of course the hard line shears right off of the steel nut fitting that feeds the slave cylinder.

I can fix that, but how the HELL am I supposed to access the brass block at the other end of that hard line?

Seems the ABS unit must be removed from the brake master cylinder to access all that. I've read that that's a job in itself. Oh and btw, what is the purpose of that 3/8th steel tube coming from underneath that same brass block?

Seeing as how the forum rules say there's no need for 1000000000000 thank you posts (and I agree), I'll say thanks in advance.

 

Get rid of all the stock maze of tubing and install this one hose. http://www.nisformance.com/One-Piece...hhoseblack.htm It connects the master and slave directly.

 

​​​​​​+1 for what he said.

This replacement line bypasses a lot of problem areas. It is easy to bleed the clutch afterwards.

the original setup is difficult to bleed.

 

I wish I had known about this before replacing most of the hard lines recently. Any more leaks and I'm getting one of these.

 

Good news and bad news. The good news is I now have all of the parts that I need to re-assemble this 90's shushbox. I was able to make that line myself. $40+ shipping for 4 feet of steel tubing? How about no......
Bad news is that I'm the type of person that has the need to REMOVE that maze of hard lines since they are just taking up space now.
I also have front and rear brakes and struts to replace. Again, not difficult but time is an issue here.

 

Ok... I got every one of those confounded hard lines removed yesterday. I'm lucky I didn't break anything else taking them out.

I should be home from work at a reasonable hour today, so I'm putting as much back together as I can.

My other major issue is the Y-pipe. It's there, but the flex/cat was rusted away when I bought the car. Not a big deal.

 

I'm putting the last reply in this thread and closing out this issue. New clutch master and slave cylinders... bled until the cows came home....

Still won't disengage the clutch. Seems to me that the bell crank is going halfway as far as it should.

I'm about 5 seconds from junking this thing. Shame because it's otherwise a really nice car.

P.S.... I've NEVER had this much trouble bleeding any hydraulic system in my life. If it's an issue with the transmission and not the hydraulics, I'm not tearing any further into it.

 

Many othe people have successfully bypassed the clutch maze with the recommended stainless steel line you chose not to buy.

I can safely say that the problem is not the car.

The problem is your quality of workmanship and attitude.

Please post photos of the line you installed.

I think there is a high spot between the clutch master and slave cylinder. There is an air pocket there it's being compressed. Not enough fluid travels to the slave cyl to extend it all the way.

The new recommended stainless steel line I installed was bled easily in just a few pumps.

You will be junking the whole car because you don't want to spend 40 dollars on the recommended clutch line.

 

That's really not the case. Everything about the master/slave was actually working perfectly when I packed in it. I did, in fact, make a direct connection between the master/slave using my own parts. NOT difficult.

I found a way to manually force the bell crank to it's limit. Still nothing.

Otherwise, tell you what. Next time someone wants to call me out on my attitude, PM me instead.

 

My '96 is non-ABS car, so I can't provide much insight on those tangential parts to the clutch system.I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "bell crank" though. Is that another phrase for the arm between the slave cylinder and throwout bearing?

 

That's correct.

 

Well, it sounds like you have gone about as far as you can go without pulling the transmission. You may have a jammed throw out bearing, it could also be something else that you're not going to be able to diagnose without having eyes on the clutch. Good luck.

 

A competent person can have the trans out in less than 2 hours. Don't give up.