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I take a couple long trips, 600 miles each way, each month and when I get closer to my destinations the car idles rough at stoplights. It shakes the rearview mirror. Since I bought the car in December I have put 26k on it and replaced the battery/plugs/coil packs and did the Berryman 4-Step Intake cleaning system. Even driving around town, without going on the long trips, it will vibrate while accelerating. Since it makes a drone noise while doing that, the mechanic said that's the resonator going bad but I think the vibration is a different issue. I have no lights or codes, and when I run Live Data on my scanner all systems check green so any help is appreciated.
You need a new mechanic.
Edit: Try some BG44k or Lucas injector cleaner then a dose of Berryman B12. I read berryman is a good followup cleaner. How many miles on the odometer?
Last edited by Bificus99; Jun 6, 2021 at 02:37 PM.
Does your obdii tool allow you to fail individual plugs to check that all are really firing? It kind of sounds like you have a coil pack goimg south or a dirty maf
If you have a blietooth gongle you can invest a few $ (it was less than 10 if i recall) and get CVTz50. It is really a cvt monitorimg and tweakimg tool but one of the extra functions is letting you check the ignition system
I have an Innova 5610 scanner so I’ll read the manual and see if it’ll let me check each cylinder. It’s a 2014 Premium that had 119k on it and is now just south of 147k. I drained/filled the CVT fluid and changed the filter when I bought it and did the plugs/coil packs at 125k. I add a can of SeaFoam High Mileage after every oil change, 5k miles.
I was thinking about that, I'm going to change them out with the originals this weekend to see what it does since I'll be taking a long trip next week. I had changed them because I was doing plugs and didn't want to take the intake off again unless I had to so I may have created the issue. The plugs were toast when I pulled them out. My scanner didn't show any misfire count for the individual cylinders either.
Good plan. I agree it sucks because of our intake manifold. Such a PITA.
Electrical stuff can be super finicky, so I keep everything electrical stock with the engine. I just replaced my coil pack's project coil's (pic attached) when I did my Bank 2 valve cover back in January.
I would also check spark plug gaps (https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resourc...ling-new-plugs) since you will have it apart. And hopefully you do not have oil in your spark plug tubes. That may be an issue, so be prepared to slam a new valve cover on since it will be all apart. Fingers crossed
Yeah, I'm an avionics guy by trade so chasing gremlins on these cars is not fun. When I changed them out initially I did not have oil in the tubes, I saw it mentioned in another thread and was looking, so hopefully that still holds true. I'll double check the boots before the weekend. Thanks for the help and I'll let you guys now what I find. I spend so much time in the car every little vibration drives me crazy.
Today I swapped the original coil packs back in and changed the PCV valve while I had the intake off. I looked in the spark plug tubes and didn’t see any oil in any of the them. I did however find oil in all 3 of the back runners in the lower intake manifold, the fronts are clean. I’ll include the picture I took of it. After we got it back together I still noticed a vibration so I took a video of the engine with it in drive and reverse, I might have found the culprits. I can’t get the video to load but it rocks back noticeably when hitting the gas in drive but stays pretty firm in reverse. I think the mounts are going bad.
Yeah...that sounds like a mount issue. There is a gonna be some movement but not excessive. In the 6th Gen, we have a mount at the front/rear of the engine and one on each side as well. Put someone in the car, have them roll thru park/drive/reverse, and you watch the engine. You'll figure it out pretty quick.
I have a 7th gen motor in my 5th gen using 5th gen mounts, and did new mounts with the swap, but I'm actually not familiar with the 7th gen subframe, which is much different than my 5th gen. Grab the FSM and reference the work information for mounts. I think I remember seeing a couple 7th gen threads with pics on this topic as well.
You do the mounts yet? I understand you have to suspend the engine to remove the sub frame and beam that the mounts bolt to. I almost cheaped out and got solid mounts but went OEM. Once I figured all the details I passed on it and sent it to my japanese car specialists.
Well, I managed to get the rear motor mount changed this weekend and it has reduced the rough idle/vibration issue I had significantly. It took 6 hours and I ran out of time so I still need to do the front one, which I will do next week. The biggest pain was getting the bracket that goes from the mount to the motor out of the way. You can't get to the last motor mount bolt with it there and I couldn't get the bracket to move, it was wedged in even with lifting the motor with a floor jack. I ended up removing the y-pipe and getting the bolt out from the bottom and pushing the mount back against the firewall. That gave me enough room to get it out through the top. Installation wasn't so bad once I figured out to put the top bracket bolts in first and then the lower ones. Once all is said and done, I'll write up a detailed remove/replace procedure if anyone's interested. I did use a lift but it can be done with a floor jack and jack stands. Oh, I also snapped a bolt on the front cat removing the y-pipe so that was extra added fun to be had......
