vehicle is a 2016 Nissan Maxima 3.5 SR with exactly 98500 miles

So this is going to be kinda long but you don’t have to read it all so I’m having a wide range of issues that have ended with my car being dead and not recharging properly so I’m thinking alternator or if you want to read all my troubles and issues I’ve been having and you think something else any and all help/info/how to is greatly appreciated thanks guys


so I had just gotten off work and had a 45 minute drive back home I get about a mile from home when I take a left hand turn and suddenly have no acceleration gas pedal did absolutely nothing my car is moving off of pure idle so I limp it into the parking lot grab my code reader and it’s throwing all kinds of codes from electrical codes to tpms codes to can communication codes so I decided to shut it off unhook cables and let it reset its self and see what pops back up so I unhook the battery let it sit for 5 10 minutes jump it and it fires up doesn’t throw any codes it’s running good no issues drives just fine so I’m like well that was weird but whatever it’s running fine so let’s get it home and we’ll go from there I got it home scanned it again and got a maf code so I pulled the maf sensor cleaned it with the electrical safe cleaner stuff let it dry and put it back in everything was fine didn’t throw the code again and everything was fine and dandy for just over a week and then this happens so I take a 30 45 minute drive to run some errands car gets shut of and restarted 4 or 5 times with 5 10 15 minutes in between then I get back home and I’m sitting in my car with it running as I finish my cigarette it dings with front end collision sensor faulty whatever then goes away almost instantly and I was like ok then it did it again and again then stayed on then battery light came on and the rpm’s started dipping so I grab my scanner and scan it and get all the codes from the screen recording below and ove a 10 minute period it kept dipping lower and lower untill I lost everything on my dash except my climate control then it dipped a few more times and died no I have zero power battery is dead I’m going to jump it and see what happens but any thoughts as to it’s current position are appreciated before I start pulling radiator hoses or ac lines to replace the alternator thanks everyone

So I had a 40 second recording but it wouldn’t let me upload it so these are screenshots of that video

 

So I left off with my car had died in the driveway no lights no dash lights nothing zero power the car sat for 5 hours and I come outside to jump it and decided to see if the key fob would unlock the door I hit the button and bam lights come on doors unlock I sit down in the driver seat and with little to no hesitation it fires right up and runs like nothing was wrong so I’m completely baffled at what’s wrong so any and all ideas or thoughts as to what could be going on is definitely needed and appreciated

 

I think you are right about replacing the alternator. How old is the battery? If over 3 years I'd replace that 1st. Just be sure the new battery has a full charge, to begin with. Good luck!

 

I would agree with robtroxel that it is the alternator. I had a similar issue about 3 months ago. The difference was I completely drained my battery when I drove. This is my first nissan that has all the electronics. My last one was a 75 280z about 20 yrs ago. I went and took my car back to the dealer and they confirmed that it was a bad alternator. My alternator was replaced( under warranty) and I got a new battery. No problems since.

 

So here’s another update pulled alternator went to autozone for a new one and asked them to test it tested as being good so I replaced the battery and put it all back together went for a drive all was fine the next day it was hot outside mid 80s had the same issue I was cruising down the highway and lost all acceleration went from 70 about 10 miles a hour within a minute pulled over to the side of the road got stopped and nothing happened just couldn’t accelerate in gear but if I put it in park accelerator works fine but as soon as it’s put in drive no response to pushing the pedal so I shut it off and let it sit for about 20 minutes it started right back up and accelerator worked for about a mile then cut out again shut it off let it sit for 20 30 minutes with the hood open and drove the rest of the 2 or 3 miles home got it in the driveway and shut it off let it sit over night ran fine the next morning on my way to work 45min drive on the way home same thing happened so it’s only having this charging/accelerator issue when it’s hot outside vehicle is staying between 199 and 209 Fahrenheit within operating ranges so I have no idea what could be wrong so again all ideas are welcome and I appreciate any help

 

I would start checking all the Grounding connections. Use Steel wool to clean up the connections. A wiring diagram will lead you to where they are on the harnesses. . This is an often-overlooked possibility
Beyond that, have you had the dealer check the engine control computer?

 

Test the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (ECTS). Replace if it fails testing.

 

I hate to be "that guy," but I was honestly interested in reading this thread, and had a very hard time due to the lack of punctuation. I gave up half way through the initial post when I realized I wasn't following the word salad. Not criticizing, just making a suggestion.

 

Can I infer you offer no help because his words are not presented to you properly? This guy needs some help and for me, it is not a chore to sort out the call for help.

 

so this could be any number of electrical problems based on the codes you are reading. none of them point to one specific thing. if the battery and alt have already been replaced or tested fine, and you can measure close to zero ohms resistance from negative battery post to chassis (indicating nothing wrong with the negative battery cable) and zero resistance from battery positive to alternator positive (indicating nothing wrong with positive battery cabling) and close to infinite resistance measuring from positive battery post to chassis (indicating no constant short circuit issue) then you can assume a intermittent short circuit.


more detail about any weird quirks your car has woukd be helpful also. Do the steering wheel controls sometimes not work? Turn signals act wonky? etc.
Also it sounds like you aren't measuring battery voltage during your troubleshooting with a digital multimeter. you never mentioned what it's resting voltage was after you let the car sit or anything like that which is why I mention it. voltage with the car running and engine revved a bit should be between 13.4 and 15v. It should rest around 12.4+v after the car has been turned off for a long period of time. check it's voltage about an hour after you shut the car off, then again after about 8 hours. was there a significant drop in resting voltage? Have you recently installed anything in the car that uses accessory power that could be possibly causing parasitic power draw? People hard wiring in dash cams and getting the wire pinched to ground or just the dash cam being a terrible chinesium piece of **** is the first thing that comes to mind, but anything could be the culprit.

If nothing like that has recently been added to the vehicle, you can start with electrical pieces that are susceptible to wear and tear (since you are close to 100k mi) like replacing the clockspring, the device that sleeves around the steering column and allows electrical communications to pass without having wires get spun around the column.

try taking a large gauge cable and going directly from negative batter post to chassis ground. This should defeat at least part of the variable voltage control. what is your voltage while running now?

run an ipdm self test. turn car on accessory (not engine on) , click driver door sensor 10 times power car off then back on to accessory again.

this sounds eerily like an ipdm / ecm communication issue.

 

I'm running into what seems to be the exact same problem on my 2016 Maxima Platinum! It has my mechanic baffled. I hit a somewhat large pothole one day and the car kept driving fine for about an hour before suddenly dying while in drive. In both park and neutral the car revved, but in drive I got nothing. Exact same thing with the front collision sensor going off after a while of driving, even though my sensors seem to be intact. Had the battery replaced and the alternator tested fine, but the problem came back the next day. I let it sit for an hour but it still wouldn't start - acting like something was wrong with the battery, dash lights and everything went off, I only saw the key symbol blinking. Trying to start the car resulted in my RPM/Speedometer needles shaking at 0 RPM/0MPH. No lights or anything were working; I wasn't even able to lock the car. I waited until the next morning and it started up as if there wasn't an issue.

Were you ever able to figure out a solution?

EDIT: I do have a radar detector hooked up that has fairly horrible wiring (frayed), but I'm nervous to assume that's the issue - I've had to tow the car and spent hundreds on attempted repairs so far.

 

so I really wish I had a good solid answer for you but as of now I haven’t been able to pinpoint it but hopefully this weekend I’m going to try a few different things one is replacing the plug and wire that go to the alternator I’m thinking this is the issue I work in a construction yard and driving through the yard will make my battery light flicker and if the battery light is on and you disconnect the negative cable it kills the motor (usually a indication the alternator is bad) but I’ve put 2 new alternators in (not a fun thing to do in case you were wondering) but putting it together I’m almost certain that it’s the wiring to the alternator so that my next step is to chase that wire I believe all the way back to the ecm and if that doesn’t work then I’ll reprogram the ecm and if that doesn’t work then I’ll just drive it like it is and deal with it occasionally cutting in and out I’ll try and post a update Sunday after I have a chance to rip it all back apart for a 3rd time

 

just run another 4ga (or bigger lol) lead from alt+ to batt+ and another from battery negative to chassis for testing. much less work. get it cheapish off Amazon, look up "big 3 kit"

 

Thanks for the reply! Please let me know if anything you try works. I'm on my second week of using a rental car even though my Maxima is parked and (kinda) working in my driveway. Not a great feeling at all.

 

any of you guys in or around illinois? I have plenty of 1/0 and 4ga cable... we could meet up and see what works. I also have a oscope, a multimeter, and am an engineer 😉

 

Wish I was still in STL, I'd drive anywhere to get this resolved, but nah I'm in KC, KS now.

 

Any luck with this issue, I'm struggling with the same issue for 15 days now, no one can identify the root cause

 

Taking my car to a dealership today. Hoping to explain everything well and pray they don't just do some useless **** to try to find stuff to bill me for. If they do find a solution I'll definitely share here.

 

I’m having similar issues. 2016 Maxima. 80k miles.

A month ago, after driving 45-50 minutes, car started stalling out while traveling 70-80 mph losing the accelerator. Pulled over, & car died. Repair shop couldn’t find problem but battery was pretty worn out so they replaced. No issues for 2 weeks then battery light started flickering and lost accelerator again after 45 minutes. Put it in neutral or park, it revs. But in drive it’s dead. Will only idle. Repair shop tested alternator and found it dropped after a while. Replaced it. Now a month later, after driving about an hour, the battery light is flickering again, but no lose in performance that I notice. Anybody have a solution or possible fix? I’m afraid I’m going to stall out on a highway again.

 

so after two alternators a new battery replacing multiple grounds and other wires I’m afraid it’s a issue with the pcm unfortunately finding one has been the issue I found a company that will refurbish my current one for around 600 but I have to be without the vehicle for however long it takes to ship it to them have them fix it then ship it back and that’s not really a option at the moment but if it is for you that’s your best bet let me know if you want the info for the company to fix yours

 

Mind sharing why you think it's a problem with the PCM? After having my alternator replaced I have SO FAR not had my Maxima die on me, but I'm sincerely worried based on what I'm reading here. I've also been exclusively running my Maxima in "sport mode" since the alternator replacement because it dawned on me that all 3 times it died it wasn't in sport. Almost definitely useless, but had to try doing at least SOMETHING different lol.

 

LONG WRITE BUT I HOPE IT HELPS.
My 2016 Max SL had been giving me the same problems since May..mostly stalling at idle at traffic lights or when sitting in drive thru, but also while driving. It sent me on a wild goose chase replacing everything that threw a code (I'll get to that in a few). A friend's husband who was a technician at a local dealership (not Nissan) offered to help out (he was cheaper than my dependable mechanic and he needed the money) and suggested that we start in the inexpensive side - so we did - battery first because the alternator tested fine. But the stall outs and limp mode (no acceleration) kept happening after a day or two and I could let it sit a while and crank right up and make it home or get a boost and do the same. Tested the alternator and it looked fine still. He finally recommended that I have someone put it on a "big" machine. My old trusted and true mechanic came to my job (where it had finally stalled and would not crank up again) and ran a diagnostic. Seeing a permanent transmission code he suggested I go to the stearlership thinking that the tranny should still be under warranty - 76K miles at this point. I had never done a tranny service 😒. Hey, I'm a girl and didn't know that a CVT made a difference. Anywhoo, the stealership said I had a shudder code and it would cost $5K. They also gave me a laundry list of other things that needed to be done..alternator, camshaft position sensors (4 of them), crankshaft position sensor, etc. (Here is where I call Nissan Consumer affairs and they agree to pay 1/2 of the tranny cost minus any tax - a whole nother conversation). I call my friend's husband back, we go to O'Reillys and buy the parts - new alternator, new sensors and pop them in. I have starting issues. It would crank but not start, so we replaced the crankshaft sensor with the old original one and the problem went away. Another case of drive a day or two, get no power upon acceleration (limp mode), happened. Friend's husband gave up. I called my tried and true mechanic. He fixes a few things - said after a brake job I had something that wasn't done back to the "computer." I happened to keep the original cam and crank sensors - he put them back in & he charged up the battery & said that I needed a new alternator even though I had just replaced the original with one. The replacement #1 was fried. He replaces it. A few days later - same thing. We replace it with another alternator... A few days later, you guessed it , it fried. Throughout the process various dash lights popped up and at one time I even had "No key detected" and the battery light on the dash flicker intermittently. One time I even had the battery light and ABS light on the dash. 🤷🏽‍♀️. He had checked harnesses - nothing. Finally he said that this was his last try and if this didn't work it was time to trade it. IPDM is what he replaced and a whole different set of cam and crank sensors (not sure of used or what, but he gave me the original and O'Reilly sensors back). Took me to the IPDM and said if this didn't work... I have 15 days to drive it around before having to pay $230 for the part and labor I was SOL. I am 9 days in.... I'll keep yaw'll posted.

 

[QUOTE=japonicadunbar;9249158]LONG WRITE BUT I HOPE IT HELPS.
My 2016 Max SL had been giving me the same problems since May..mostly stalling at idle at traffic lights or when sitting in drive thru, but also while driving. It sent me on a wild goose chase replacing everything that threw a code (I'll get to that in a few). A friend's husband who was a technician at a local dealership (not Nissan) offered to help out (he was cheaper than my dependable mechanic and he needed the money) and suggested that we start in the inexpensive side - so we did - battery first because the alternator tested fine. But the stall outs and limp mode (no acceleration) kept happening after a day or two and I could let it sit a while and crank right up and make it home or get a boost and do the same. Tested the alternator and it looked fine still. He finally recommended that I have someone put it on a "big" machine. My old trusted and true mechanic came to my job (where it had finally stalled and would not crank up again) and ran a diagnostic. Seeing a permanent transmission code he suggested I go to the stearlership thinking that the tranny should still be under warranty - 76K miles at this point. I had never done a tranny service 😒. Hey, I'm a girl and didn't know that a CVT made a difference. Anywhoo, the stealership said I had a shudder code and it would cost $5K. They also gave me a laundry list of other things that needed to be done..alternator, camshaft position sensors (4 of them), crankshaft position sensor, etc. (Here is where I call Nissan Consumer affairs and they agree to pay 1/2 of the tranny cost minus any tax - a whole nother conversation). I call my friend's husband back, we go to O'Reillys and buy the parts - new alternator, new sensors and pop them in. I have starting issues. It would crank but not start, so we replaced the crankshaft sensor with the old original one and the problem went away. Another case of drive a day or two, get no power upon acceleration (limp mode), happened. Friend's husband gave up. I called my tried and true mechanic. He fixes a few things - said after a brake job I had something that wasn't done back to the "computer." I happened to keep the original cam and crank sensors - he put them back in & he charged up the battery & said that I needed a new alternator even though I had just replaced the original with one. The replacement #1 was fried. He replaces it. A few days later - same thing. We replace it with another alternator... A few days later, you guessed it , it fried. Throughout the process various dash lights popped up and at one time I even had "No key detected" and the battery light on the dash flicker intermittently. One time I even had the battery light and ABS light on the dash. 🤷🏽‍♀️. He had checked harnesses - nothing. Finally he said that this was his last try and if this didn't work it was time to trade it. IPDM is what he replaced and a whole different set of cam and crank sensors (not sure of used or what, but he gave me the original and O'Reilly sensors back). Took me to the IPDM and said if this didn't work... I have 15 days to drive it around before having to pay $230 for the part and labor I was SOL. I am 9 days in.... I'll keep yaw'll posted.

I need to add that I had done the IPDM test myself somewhere in the middle of working with my friend's husband and the stealership. All the lights, compressor, everything turned on as it should. I wouldn't have ever though that it still could be a bad IPDM.

Now, about that shudder code. at replacing alternator #3, my mechanic had the car running so well that there certainly no tranny symptoms although the code still existed. Took the car back to the stealership to have it fixed. Nissan Consumer affairs had given me 90 days on their offer to pay half and that time was almost up. The stealership contacts consumer affairs who at this time begins to crawfish back out of their offer. They have the stealership drive and video the dash and ride. There are no lights on the dash, but hey the lights would always leave in between recharging the battery and replacing the alternator. Since there were no symptoms and consumer affairs was acting an ****..are... the Nissan stealership left my "ticket" open and told me they were having a conversation with Nissan Consumer Affairs. The stealership told Nissan (I never said this to them ever) that I said the shudder was intermittent since they could not recreate the problem. They also told Nissan Consumer Affairs (NCA) that the code still remained from two months before when I brought it in. As of now, my mechanic has appeared to fix the stall, low/no acceleration, failing new alternators, etc problems. The stealership told me they would call me when they came to a resolution with NCA about the tranny repair and payment. They called two days ago on Friday, but I was in a meeting at work and couldn't answer at the time. I'll be calling them back tomorrow. FYI..after the IPDM replacement my mechanic said they permanent tranny shudder code was no longer there. I don't know if that is good or bad. 🤷🏽‍♀️🤦🏽‍♀️😖

 

So I took car to a different mechanic who found my new battery installed in July had a dead cell and terminals corroded. Changed all and promised he fixed it. Battery light went on 5 minutes after I left his garage. Brought back next day, he tested at alternator and said it was putting out 15.5 volts so I should take back to original guy that put in the rebuilt one and have him replace it. So I did. That guy tested it today and found the pigtail connector going into alternator was busted. Replaced it and car is running great right now. We’ll see if it lasts. I’m skeptical after having it in the shop 5x already. I’ll let you know if it still is battery lite free in a few weeks.

 

After about 2 months of my car running fine following replacement of the alternator - it just died on me again today. I have a video of the problem happening AFTER an alternator replacement; I hope it helps someone else. I'm extremely frustrated - I've spent WAY too much money on things that haven't fixed the problem.

Thanks sincerely for the long reply @japonicadunbar! I'll read it over and send the message on to my mechanic.

 

I've opened a case with Nissan corporate on the issue. I pray that they will take the issue seriously - especially now that I have a video of the issue happening as it happened.

Thanks for all your help guys - highly recommend other people open cases with Nissan corporate as well: https://www.nissanusa.com/contact-us.html.

I did so over the phone, but you can also submit a form as well.

 

After 2 weeks at the dealership with them unable to find anything, I'm now going to wake up early one morning to drive it around for a couple hours before the dealership opens, and then until it dies. Then I'll have it towed to the dealership so that they can replicate the problem on-site. I'll post anything that's found here.

 

so it’s been about 3 weeks and car is still running great. Not sure if anyone else’s issue is the same, but the broken pigtail was my issue. Hope this helps

 

Just following up, there's a suspicion that my IPDM is failing, which I'm hoping is the issue and sounds about right. For now they've "depinned" my IPDM (I assume unplugged) to see if that's the problem.

While researching the IPDM, I did find this article which had a very interesting paragraph:
https://www.motor.com/magazine-summa...ce-april-2020/

 

Just following up, my car died since having the IPDM depinned, so that was not the issue. Still working on figuring this out.

 

Do you have a solution or update on this issue? My wife's car is experiencing the exact same issue and the dealership can't find anything....ugh!

 

I have posted in another thread about this. I had the transmission replaced a new alternator and battery Finally got it back today so I put it through the paces so to speak. After the typical 45 minutes or so the same problem happened again. It goes into limp mode. When hitting the accelerator no power but when in park or neutral the rpms rev. Like before after turning it off and on it finally just dies and will not crank over and have no power. Luckily I was down the street from the shop and they sent a mechanic to the parking lot I was broken down in and he put the scan tool on and at first he got no codes. After searching the tool he saw that there was something for the BCM. I am no mechanic but from searching the internet and these amazing forums I believe it's something with one of the many computers...probably the IPMD. Again not a mechanic but many of the posts I have read have the EXACT same problem. Once the car heats up this problem happens. Usually around 30-40 minutes and it's hot outside, about 85. This problem did not happen until it got hot out. I don't know if that matters. Either way I hope it gets fixed and if you have the same problem, I feel your pain. I will update when I know more. (I have in the past when the problem happens I disconnect the battery for about 10-15 minutes and the car is OK for a short period of time. Battery light and traction are on before it dies out. Sorry if I am not the best at writing but I'm so hopeless with this situation that it makes me not focused)

 

That actually sounds exactly like the issues we have been having, very good info. I appreciate the update and if I find an answer to our problem, I will be sure to post it. Thanks!

 

I just wanted to chime in since I had been having the same problem with no acceleration on my wifes 2016 Maxima. It would happen randomly, usually while exiting the highway, and happened for the course of about a month. My battery tester has an alternator testing feature and my alternator would test "good". I purchased a volt tester that plugs into the cigarette lighter power supply in the center console to watch it while I would drive it. I would notice the volts gradually drop to somewhere between 9 and 10 volts before I would lose acceleration in the gas pedal. This confirmed that the alternator would just randomly stop charging properly. I even tested this theory with no radio on, no ac on, and my dash camera unplugged and still had the same random problem.

After doing extensive research and reading other peoples horror stories, I came to the conclusion that an aftermarket alternator simply will not work properly in a Nissan Maxima. I purchased an OEM Nissan remanufactured alternator from my local Nissan dealership for around $580 and installed it myself on fathers day. To this day, it has been 2 full months and I have not experienced the NO ACCELERATION problem again.

To summarize, my alternator would randomly not charge properly causing a loss of acceleration in "Drive" and the solution was installing a genuine Nissan alternator as opposed the cheaper aftermarket ones.

 

Thanks for sharing this episode with us. I am also inclined to think the non Nissan replacement parts>>namely the alternator is the culprit here.

 

Welp, dealing with this issue in Nov of 2023…….

nothing like paying of your car and having this issue a year and a half later. But oh well, things can be worse.

the first time it happened was on a really rainy day and the plastic bottom piece of my car was broken so I was thinking maybe something got wet.

the problem continued the last two weeks. My mechanic can’t find anything because once he gets it it’s cold and he can’t drive it enough to replicate the issue. So trying to help him out here.

wanted to drop in and see if anyone figured anything out for sure.

thanks!

my car is a 2016 Maxima SR

 

Hello, I am writing to see if there is an update, was the issue resolved? Been having the same issue for 4 months on my car, it’s been through a new transmission, 3 new batteries, new battery terminals and will be getting new alternator in couple days. OEM alternator. Please help. This has been stressful.

 

After purchasing and installing an OEM alternator from a Nissan dealership, my problem was resolved for 8 months. By the way, the OEM alternator is simply a remanufactured alternator with no Nissan markings or stickers on it. That bothered me when i opened it because I personally, want to see a ****ing Nissan sticker on that thing for the price I paid. Also, the one year warranty doesnt meet sqaut if you dont have that same Nissan dealership install it for you, just fyi. The OEM alternator had a very light squeek to it ever since I installed it and i noticed that my headlights slightly get brighter when I would press the gas. That was a bad sign from the beginning but since the car was running fine I was content with it. Exactly 8 months later (which was 3 weeks ago) the no accelleration problem returned only this time, I was barely able to get it home from 6 block away and couldnt even get it all the way in my driveway. This time, even letting it sit all day made no difference. It would not accellerate in drive even after charging my battery. I put my battery charger/alternator tester on it and it would read "bad alternator".
This happened on a saturday and I could not wait for Monday to either buy another OEM alternator (which is remanufactured junk anyways) so I did some research and seen that my 2016 Maxima uses the same model alternator as any 2009-2017 Maxima. So i went to my local LKQ salvage yard Sunday morning and pulled an original OEM alternator from a 2012 Maxima that still had the Nissan sticker on it, because thats the only ones I will trust, and paid around $40 with the core charge included. Went home and spent the next 6 hours installing it since Ive done it before and it fired right up and charges better than the piece of crap OEM one I bought from Nissan. My headlights stay the same brightness whether its parked or Im gunning it and its quiet compared to the faint squeeking from the brand new replacement i bought 8 months ago. I kept a plug in voltage meter in it for a week to make sure it would never drop voltage while driving since I was still nervous. Because i personally think that only a Nissan alternator is the best way to go, I went back to the salvage yard the following weekend and pulled another OEM alternator from a 2010 Maxima (still has the Nissan sticker on it) for $40 just so that I have spare ready to go should this **** happen again.
The problem is definitley the alternator. However, i dont know if something else is causing them to go bad. But in my first experience, i tested the alternator at least 7 or 8 times before I got a "bad alternator" reading. Its like they charge most of the time and then they decide to stop charging. Either way, all is well right now but i will update this thread if that changes. If your paying a Nissan dealership to do the install, the alternator they sell you would be the way to go i guess since you will at least have a year warranty. If you are planning on doing the work yourself, a used OEM alternator would be my reccomendation. Just be sure to get it tested at your local auto parts store before installing it. Good luck with your Maxima.

 

Thank you for the update, so I definitely think it’s the alternator. Crazy how this happened to so many Maximas. I was so excited to get mine, as it’s been my dream car. It’s very disheartening when something you love so much, isn’t working the way it should be working and want it to be working. My mechanic is actually a cousin, he ordered a OEM alternator, he owns a Auto Parts store, but advised me not to go with an After Market part and told me to go with the Nissan Part, so that’s we went with. If the issue comes up with the car again after the new alternator is installed, I can ask him to find an older alternator with the sticker. Thank you. I hope that you resolved the issue for good.