Started my car Monday for work and immediately noticed smoke from the hood. #6 cyl ignition coil bubbles and melted. Threw P0306 code only.

Purchased 6 coils and plugs from a 5 star rated Amazon vendor. Inspected the wiring looking for damage. Noticed ignition wires were frayed to that #6 ignition coil. Spliced and replaced. Started the car after repair and immediately blew the 15amp ECCS fuse and completely melted the new coil again. (#2) Now 6 days later I am in the same cycle of turn key on, blow a fuze and melt a coil. All 6 new coils have been destroyed.

I came here for knowledge and read about some of the ground fault problems and I started working that angle. I have replaced the battery, the entire negative ground cable that goes to the frame and the trans. I have completely cut open the entire ignition coil wire harness and inspected for more frayed wires that might be arcing. The small ground screw located on top of the timing chain area had the plastic externally brittle and cracking off in my hand. I cut out the old wire and reinstalled the ground to that screw with standard 20ga stranded copper wire.

At this point I have inspected EVERY single wire that is located in that bundle harness on top of the valve cover. I repaired 3 small frayed wires and secured the harness with a little electric tape but I left a good bit open because i
missing something. It’s still blowing the ECCS fuze and completely melting my ****ing coils.

I’m down to my last 3 days vacation, and I’m $300 into this repair and currently have lost 4 days of pay with no car to drive to work on Monday.

Any ideas would be extremely helpful attaching a picture for reference. I’ll clean it all up when it’s fixed. Sherlock Holmes that thing

Cut open entire harness and inspected for exposed Copper

Finding frayed ground wires brittle and cracking.

Repaired ground with a 20ga white stranded copper wire and taped.
me please.

 

You've sorted the ground issue, yet you (1) still are having the issue (cooking of coil pack) and (2) and that issue is localized (on a specific coil).

This is leading me to a device, i.e., coil pack/tube, issue. That entails that it is malfunctioning. How? Who knows except for that we know that it is pulling so much power through it that it is cooking the coil pack. How does that happen?

(1) It is grounding out somewhere and that grounding is drawing excessive power ("wire" or coil pack "tube"); or
(2) The basic electric structure of the coil pack is defective (causing excessive resistance in the electrical part itself) and cannot handle the power requirements for the application. Where is the resistance? Who knows. Really not worth the time to track it down in a coil pack.

You've fixed the "wire" ground issue. So, it appears your issue may be a resistance (which causes heat) issue with the part itself. Quality control is a major issue with aftermarket electrical parts.

So, what would I do? I would go to the junk yard and get several Nissan factory coil packs. Then you will have a known good starting point. FYI, I have an 2006 and still have all of my original coil packs, so they, from a quality perspective, should be fine.

 

I can’t be 100% sure that I fixed “every” ground issue. I checked the wires that I read to check but certainly could have missed something.

I’m going to remove the battery and check that negative to the frame and trans one more time.

But yes, fire the car up with new plug and coil and it’s just about instant that the coil bubbles up and the fuse blows.

 

Yeah I’ve read several things about some of the off brand packs not doing well. But with missing work and dropping my cash on this thing last week I’m sort of screwed for cash. I have paging jobs waiting for me to show.

guess I better find a way to get my tools over there. 😕

 

Well dang, I’ve replaced the Ecu and the wiring and connector to the ignition coil and I still have a P0306 misfire code #6.

the computer is new. The wiring is new.
im guessing that means I still have a problem on the coil or the plug.

any ideas guys? Been off work 2 weeks with this car down. Really need to get it moving.

 

plug still looks brand new and I don’t see any markings or burns on the coil. That also looks brand new.

 

Updating for anyone who may need this in the future.

There was a frayed wire that was arcing out on top of the motor and it caused the ECM to burn up by allowing battery voltage to feed into tbe ECM at the number 6 ignition coil. (Grey wire with red stripe) the control wire. That control wire is only suppose to have around 0.1-0.3v on it at any given time.

After lots of trial and error and a huge thanks to TDGrant, I replaced the computer with an FS1 plug-ans-play ECM and also replaced the ignition coil and the spark plug.

It is now running better than it ever has.

again I would like to give a huge thanks to TDGrant for taking the time to help me diagnose the issue and save me money by fixing it myself.