i live in central Florida and we just recently had the coldest weather in a long. my car was sitting since I had to redo my polyurethane lower engine mounts , so I was waiting for the cold weather to pass and fix it. the car doesn't have heat and I have my van so I wasn't in a rush to fix it. when the cold weather passed I changed them out and took the car for a short drive and the morning after i see a puddle under the car.

has anyone ever experienced anything like this?? it's getting close to 3 years since I put in the 2014 engine, I wasn't expecting an oil leak this soon 😒

 

my money is on the upper oil pan seals. only way to know for sure is to remove the trans and FW to get your eyeballs on it and the rear main.

 

at first I thought it had something to do with the clutch hydraulics cause the pedal was stuck to the flooor when I got in the car. sucks having to pull the tranny again, I just put a new clutch in 2 months ago.. .

 

maybe? is it confirmed engine oil? it looks to be coming out of the bell and i would expect the slave to be leaking down the front area of the trans.

 

the front of the trans is bone dry, it's definately engine oil.

 

Lower temps thicken the oil more, so I don’t think it’s related to the temperature. Try to see where is it leaking from and go from there.

 

did you change the rear main when you did the clutch? if so thats where my money would be. half moon seals generally make it 10 years before they start leaking.

 

it's leaking pretty fast, I'm thinking it's the rear main as well. i had checked the level, let it warm up than reved it to 4k a few times. when I looked underneath I could see it dripping out.

I had put new rear main seal and resealed the upper pan when I did the swap around 3 years ago.

 

yeah im going with rear main if its leaking like that.

FWIW in 25 years of doing this professionally the only time ive seen a VQ rear main leaking is if its been ****ed with. be SURE you buy an OE seal.

 

I actually went with Fel Pro. when I did the rear main seal on the original DE I picked up an OEM rear main seal at Nissan and it was a Fel Pro. I never had any issues over 10 years with that engine so I wen't with Fel Pro on the 2014 engine. I won't be doing that again.

 

NOK is the original supplier but it looks like OE nissan is the best price.

12296-ja10a

 

NOK seems to be the way to go, i've had my 2JZGTE rebuilt ground-up twice. First builder used Fel-Pro but had a Jap specialist shop do the second build and said they won't use anything but NOK on Japanese vehicles and Fel-Pro isn't really the way to go

 

I'll definately go OEM this time around.

 

If your plan is to R&R anyway … before you do that maybe give this (or a similar product of your choosing) a try.

I used this as a temporary, biding for time, fix in my ‘94 F150. And that was like 7 years ago. I kid-you-not.

 

I've used that and the Blue Devil rear main seal in my Silverado, works and has saved me from replacing my rear main seal 10+ years later lol

 

There’s two testimonials right there from folks not trying to sell anything.

Certainly worth a try, right?

 

can confirm the stuff works. used blue devil in my dirt cheap V8 explorer for the rear main. wasnt leaking when i sold it 6 years later

 

AT 205/seal lube. I buy it in multiple gallons lol.

 

I guess I can try it for now. I ordered the parts already and plan on doing the propper repair though.

 

theres a Q50 guy that used bars's leaks for a cracked upper block successfully for over a year now, it def works.

 

cracked upper block,what caused that?

i threw in the Bar's like a half an hour ago at the auto parts store. the drive home was 5 miles, I'm letting the car idle for now. as of right now, I'm not seeing any drippage as the car is idling in the drieway.

 

this is what i meant by the "cracked head" (cylinder heads)

the guy using the bar's leak had unknown source coolant being mixed with his engine oil, and has slowed down the coolant after further oil changes using bar's leak

 

I drove quite a fews miles after putting the stuff in but I think the leak has only slowed down as the oil level has dropped. going to pull the pan and tranny next monday

 

as it turns out, it was worst than I thought. a few of the nuts that hold the friction plate on the JWT flywheel came off and put a hole in the oil pan.... the Fel-Pro seals had nothing to do with it but I did pick up all the seals I need at Nissan.. I went ahead and ordered a Nisformance flywheel and ARP pressure plate bolts

 

ho lee ***.

im tempted to buy the FW off you but i also think ill be going with the nisformance unit

 

one of the thread inserts where the pressre plate bolts on to always gave me problems but never came loose. not sure what happened this time, i torqued the friction plate screws all to spec and even rechecked to make sure I didn't miss one.

you can have it for free if you wanna see what a machine chop can do with it. it looks a lil rough but the engine started up and ran fine with it installed.

 

im down for that. shoot me a venmo or paypal and how much youll want.

 

when I get up in the morning I'll take off the friction plate and send you more detailed pics...

 

after taking a closer look, it appears that 2 of the thread inserts on the same side came loose.






uneven pressure on the disc and friction plate caused a hot spot which made the plate lift and pop a few of the friction plate screws. one of the nuts made impact on the oil pan causing the hole...




this is the back of the flywheel.

 

yeah thats scrap metal. main reason i was going to go with the nisformance unit. all one piece

 

I ordered the Nisformance flywheel monday. I went back later in the evening when I decided to order ARP bolts and noticed the flywheel was marked as out of stock on the site.

more companies need to jump on making solid flywheels so people can ditch the dual mass flywheels. from my experience they arent worth the hassle. the springs in them dont seem to last

 

after a few delays I got it back together and running. I really like the Nisformance flywheel, no more chatter. I also went with ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts.