making room for 6 1/2s in door on a 92 /w bose
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I made some panels out of MDF and are working great so far. The cuts are tricky kinda..kind of a trial and error thing to a point. And you have to mount the speaker in a certain spot or it'll hit the window i think(did with mine almost). Its impossible(i think) to use the stock box thats in there with a speaker that big.
I may get some pics of mine, if i do ill post em'
I may get some pics of mine, if i do ill post em'
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Yeah I have 6.5"'s in mine too
I bought the MB Quart's and had them installed. All they did was cut a larger hole in the old Bose plastic mounting cabinet. Hey FOO90SE, does your door panel rattle any when you crank your music? How would you fix this?
if you remove the bose pods, you can build the same thing I did in my doors.. I made some for Killermove's car (with bose) and they bolted into the same holes as mine.. there are no differences between bose and non-bose door panels once you remove the plastic pods and amps..
you can easily fit 6.5" in there, but anything larger you'll have a problem.
you can easily fit 6.5" in there, but anything larger you'll have a problem.
6.5s
I built my pod with 3/8 plywood reinforced with fiberglass, cut to fit over the old bose opening. I made a donut out of 3/4 mdf, set my height, depth and angle with 2 screws, filled with bondo, and took the screws out. You probably could get by with the plywood and mdf, but it could get tricky with mounting depth over 2.5".
IMHO it is not a good idea to use the vented bose box. Most midbasses need a much larger space. Ported boxes dont leave much margin of error, and vary with the characteristics of the speaker.
IMHO it is not a good idea to use the vented bose box. Most midbasses need a much larger space. Ported boxes dont leave much margin of error, and vary with the characteristics of the speaker.
Re: 6.5s
Originally posted by amax935
I built my pod with 3/8 plywood reinforced with fiberglass, cut to fit over the old bose opening. I made a donut out of 3/4 mdf, set my height, depth and angle with 2 screws, filled with bondo, and took the screws out. You probably could get by with the plywood and mdf, but it could get tricky with mounting depth over 2.5".
IMHO it is not a good idea to use the vented bose box. Most midbasses need a much larger space. Ported boxes dont leave much margin of error, and vary with the characteristics of the speaker.
I built my pod with 3/8 plywood reinforced with fiberglass, cut to fit over the old bose opening. I made a donut out of 3/4 mdf, set my height, depth and angle with 2 screws, filled with bondo, and took the screws out. You probably could get by with the plywood and mdf, but it could get tricky with mounting depth over 2.5".
IMHO it is not a good idea to use the vented bose box. Most midbasses need a much larger space. Ported boxes dont leave much margin of error, and vary with the characteristics of the speaker.
and i gotta do it soon ;p
i'm thinking my 3way kenwoods would sound nice in the door, i'll take pictures when i decide to replace that bose crap and ditch my pioneer to bose adaptor (buyers, anyone??) replacing the factory 6x9's with some pioneers with polymer woofers is the plan. i have a friend who has some and theyre nice. getting a 200x1 amp to power two 375 watt 12" jensen XS subs (if anyone knows how i'm going to have to wire that to make the impedance match, tell me.) my friend's mitsubishi galant can fit 6x9's in the doors, and i would think the larger maxima would be able to accomodate them... if that 200x1 amp wouldn't be enough to power both those 12"s in a sealed box, i would put it on my 8" mids and put those under the driver and pass seats, and buy another amp for the subs (100x4 down to 2) suggestions? help please.. i have no idea how the Ohms concept works... watts, volts and amps are simple... but the impedance has me stumped.
Originally posted by The Sleeper
i'm thinking my 3way kenwoods would sound nice in the door, i'll take pictures when i decide to replace that bose crap and ditch my pioneer to bose adaptor (buyers, anyone??) replacing the factory 6x9's with some pioneers with polymer woofers is the plan. i have a friend who has some and theyre nice. getting a 200x1 amp to power two 375 watt 12" jensen XS subs (if anyone knows how i'm going to have to wire that to make the impedance match, tell me.) my friend's mitsubishi galant can fit 6x9's in the doors, and i would think the larger maxima would be able to accomodate them... if that 200x1 amp wouldn't be enough to power both those 12"s in a sealed box, i would put it on my 8" mids and put those under the driver and pass seats, and buy another amp for the subs (100x4 down to 2) suggestions? help please.. i have no idea how the Ohms concept works... watts, volts and amps are simple... but the impedance has me stumped.
i'm thinking my 3way kenwoods would sound nice in the door, i'll take pictures when i decide to replace that bose crap and ditch my pioneer to bose adaptor (buyers, anyone??) replacing the factory 6x9's with some pioneers with polymer woofers is the plan. i have a friend who has some and theyre nice. getting a 200x1 amp to power two 375 watt 12" jensen XS subs (if anyone knows how i'm going to have to wire that to make the impedance match, tell me.) my friend's mitsubishi galant can fit 6x9's in the doors, and i would think the larger maxima would be able to accomodate them... if that 200x1 amp wouldn't be enough to power both those 12"s in a sealed box, i would put it on my 8" mids and put those under the driver and pass seats, and buy another amp for the subs (100x4 down to 2) suggestions? help please.. i have no idea how the Ohms concept works... watts, volts and amps are simple... but the impedance has me stumped.
I HAD MY BOSE BOX TAKEN OUT AND MADE ANOTHER BOX OUT OF WOOD THAT BOLTED TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE DOOR BUT STILL FIT UNDER THE DOOR PANEL.THEN CUT OUT FOR THE 6 1/2.I DID HAVE TO PUT A STYROFOAM BAFFLE CUP TO HELP THE SPEAKER HAVE MORE MID BASS.
BECAUSE IF I DIDNT THE SPEAKER WOULD USE THE WHOLE DOOR AS A CABINET IT SOUNDED LIKE I HAD MY SUBS IN THE DOORS.
SPEAKERS ARE BOSTON PRO'S 6.3'S
BECAUSE IF I DIDNT THE SPEAKER WOULD USE THE WHOLE DOOR AS A CABINET IT SOUNDED LIKE I HAD MY SUBS IN THE DOORS.
SPEAKERS ARE BOSTON PRO'S 6.3'S
Re: 6.5s
Originally posted by amax935
I built my pod with 3/8 plywood reinforced with fiberglass, cut to fit over the old bose opening. I made a donut out of 3/4 mdf, set my height, depth and angle with 2 screws, filled with bondo, and took the screws out. You probably could get by with the plywood and mdf, but it could get tricky with mounting depth over 2.5".
IMHO it is not a good idea to use the vented bose box. Most midbasses need a much larger space. Ported boxes dont leave much margin of error, and vary with the characteristics of the speaker.
I built my pod with 3/8 plywood reinforced with fiberglass, cut to fit over the old bose opening. I made a donut out of 3/4 mdf, set my height, depth and angle with 2 screws, filled with bondo, and took the screws out. You probably could get by with the plywood and mdf, but it could get tricky with mounting depth over 2.5".
IMHO it is not a good idea to use the vented bose box. Most midbasses need a much larger space. Ported boxes dont leave much margin of error, and vary with the characteristics of the speaker.
Hi,
I just built some mounting plates from MDF. It was definately an afternoon of trial and error.
My question is why did you reinforce the plywood with fiberglass? Are you running your 6.5 free-air or did you built an enclosure around the magnet? How are you protecting it from water?
Thanks./
i just had my friends dad build me some 6.5 mounts out of 12-guage sheet metal and 3/4 MDF. they fit great, and use the back side of the BOSE box as a water/moisture baffle. i'll take some pictures before i put my door panels back on in a month. why a month? i'm waiting to find a passenger side power heated mirror. got one? i'll pay good money ! $$$
Gavin
Gavin
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