Having read the NOS instructions several times, playing with the wiring in my room, and reading write ups I think I'm good for my install soon

My questions are:

1) On a smaller shot 40/50 are colder plugs necessary? I have colder plugs (Copper), but I plan on taking things slowly at first so I can minimize the variables while I'm learning.

2) Which cylinders tend to run lean? Also can you number the cylinders from the front of the car for me please.

3) Where do you all recommend mounting the nozzle? Thomas said that his nitrous hit harder when closer to the throttle body, but elsewhere I read
http://www.turbomx5.com/nitro3.htm

"I have had some problems with the nitrous melting my number 4 spark plug. I discussed the problem with NOS and as a first step I moved my nitrous injector further upstream, it's now halfway between the throttle and the airflow meter. It's too early to tell yet, but it looks like the A/F ratio is much more consistent now and it's stronger than ever!

The problem comes from having the injector to close to the throttle, the blast of nitrous is so strong that it shoots it directly to the number 4 intake runner, thereby leaning out no. 4 and making 1, 2 and 3 run rich. This also explains the erratic behavior of the A/F ratio gauge and the cloud of black smoke from the tailpipe that I have experienced when I "hit" the bottle. The final solution will probably be a port injection (one fogger in each intake runner) combined with their new progressive nitrous controller but that will have to wait a while longer."

4) Since I live in Texas I wanted some opinions regarding bottle temperature dependence. How big of a leanness will high temps cause (we get ~110 degree weather here in the summer)
(from the same site) http://www.turbomx5.com/nitro3.htm

"The nitrous pressure varies with bottle temperature. Bottle temperature follows the ambient temperature! Of course you can use a bottle heater which will keep your bottle at 84F on cold days, but what about those warm summer days when you realize that your bottle pressure is 1200 psi !! As soon as you hit the throttle, the A/F ratio gauge disappears from the scale, on the lean side :-( "

5) I'm not totally understanding the adjustment to the FPSS.
Here's the instructions I'm trying to follow:

-Disconnect the 2nd soleniod electrical lines
-Hook a 12v test light up to those wires, make sure the wires are long enough to either have it inside the car or being held by the windshield wiper.
-Now, turn the FPSS fully clockwise
-Go out and activate the system. It is ok, the car will be fine. The car may sputter a bit but it will do no harm. Just gettin more fuel. The test light should NOT come on.
-Now adjust the FPSS by turning counter-clockwise. Do it in 1/4 turn incriments.
-Now go and test again, if the light doesnt come on, repeat the step above.
-Keep adjusting till the light barely comes on, then turn the FPSS another 1/4 turn more.
-Now the swtich is set right.

So is this basically just making sure that you are at or above the (bumped up) WOT fuel pressure before activating the system? I initially plan to run a 50 shot, so I'll be using a .32 nitrous jet and .42 bypass jet. According to Thomas I'll be around ~62psi, so should my FPSS be set to activate just below that (say 60psi)?

Sorry for the long questions, but I'm trying to figure out the intracacies of the system
-hype

 

Well I can answer some of your questions,

1)On that small a shot you will not need colder plugs, but they will become neccesary when you bump up the shot, but at $1.15 each its no big deal.

2)Cylinders 5&6 tend to run the leanest on our cars, the cylinders are setup looking from the front of the car, 1 3 5
2 4 6
this being the front of the car >
(please someone correct me if I am wrong on this one)

3) I have mine mounted in the accordian section of the stock intake piping.

4) The only thing I can tell you is use a bottle heater to warm it up in the winter, and I use bags of ice in the summer time to bring the pressure down.

5) I can't help you with that one as I am not running a FPSS at the moment.

Hope this helps you out some.

 

I don't think so, but they couldn't hurt!

I think BJJ's numbering is right:

2 4 6
1 3 5

I _think_ 5 and 6 have the most problems, because they are the cylinders that would get the most nitrous. That's the downside of a dry kit, the nitrous distribution is not perfectly even.

I'm sure you've seen my pic (http://www.ericj.org/maxima/img/NOS/...zzle_line2.jpg). However, people have put them a lot closer without problems, so I don't think it would matter. If you picture our IM, there is really no way that you could put the nozzle in the intake path that it would spary directly into 1 runner.

(Someone correct me if this is wrong!) My understand is that this is the major upside of a dry nitrous kit. Fuel pressure is dependant of nitrous pressure. If you're bottle pressure goes up, your FP should go up, and if the NP goes down, your FP should go down. This is not the case with wet kits, so those guys have to be right on with their bottle pressures.

Exactly. I didn't install mine, but that's exactly how I understood it to work. Sounds like a pain, doesn't it?

 

How small is a small shot...and whats a big shot?

 

Some say a "big shot" is over 70, but I think it's over 50.

 

So regarding #3 how far from the throttle body do you have the nozzle mounted? I have a PR midpipe, so I can tap wherever.

The nitrous pictures in this forum are helpful, but it would be even more helpful/interesting to supplement the pictures with a list of nitrous member's setups: i.e.

Name
xHypex

Kit Brand/Part #
NOS 5124

Gauges
Electrical Fuel Pressure Gauge, NP Gauge (on bottle)

Nozzle Mounted (distance from throttle Body)
Midpipe 4"

Bottle Mounted
Driver's Side

Solenoids Mounted
D/S Strut tower

Accessories
Modified NOS Bottle Heater, Blanket (FPR, Walbro, etc.)


Pictures are great, but sometimes it's hard visualize where a picture is pointing to especially when you aren't familiar with everything yet.

-hype

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by xHypex
[B]So regarding #3 how far from the throttle body do you have the nozzle mounted? I have a PR midpipe, so I can tap wherever.[QUOTE]

I have mine mounted about 3"-4" from the throttle body, and I haven't had any problems running lean on any cylinders yet.

 

I am thinking about getting ZEX nitrous kit. Do I need to get the colder plugs for a 65 shot. They suggest buying their's is that a good thing ???

Thanks,

 

you can pay the extra marketing money for Zex plugs but from my experience with Denso coppers and Bernie2000SE experience with Zex' plugs, the cost does not justify the performance...

 

Thanks i appreciate it

 

When I was running the dry setup, I tapped my nozzle right onto the TB, between the linkage and the CAI rubber connector. There were no problems whatsoever. You have to be sure and mark the nozzle as you install it in order to make sure that the opening is pointing INTO the TB and not away from it. That's the only thing you have to watch out for.

As for plugs, the rule of thumb is 1 step colder per every 50 shot you go up. So, at 100 shot, you should have 2 steps colder. 50 and below do not need spark plug change.

As for gauges, the EGT is better than the A/F gauge. FP full sweep is better than half sweep.

Bottle heaters are just about a must in order to maintain proper bottle pressure. You could go old school and use ice/torch, but it's dangerous and very difficult to maintain a constant. You can p'up the heaters on ebay for around $100. The key is having one with atleast a thermostat to control it. Once you have sprayed with 950+psi, you will wonder why you didn't get a heater earlier. I personally have both the heater and the blanket. On that same line, the nitrous has to have some kind of pressure gauge so you can tune with it. At the bottle or in the car it really doesn't matter, just get one.

Did I leave anything out? If I did, just ask.

 

Thanks Bro.... very informative...and useful information.

Thanks

 

Sweet so you dont need colder plugs for under a 50 shot...so does that mean , under 50 or 50 AND under? ive hurd of a 30 shot , is there such a think as 40 shot?

 

I'm sure that with the right combo, you can have just about anything between. Usually it goes 50, 60, 70, 75, 80, 100. Under 50 it really is kinda of a waste of money. You won't be able to feel it as much and the costs will outweigh the benefits.

Start with a 50 shot. Properly tuned it can give you something like 25-30 to the ground which you will "feel", sometimes even more. Once you get more experience, then move up...

 

Think I'm going with a 50 shot to start out !!!

 

NX kits rate theirs at wheel Hp anyway, do they not?

 

It all depends whom you ask. IMHO, they are all rated to their best possible HP based on really good tuning. Can you achieve that kind of tuning???? Depends on resources. IMHO, tuning is the key to real performance potential.

My 70 ran faster than other people with a 100 shot on similar max's. Tuning had something to do with i.