Hey i am new to the nitrous scene and am planning on purchasing a nx wet kit 20923. I plan on running a 50-75 shot and nothing more. I have done some research and understand that my stock fuel system will be good up to and including a 75 shot is this right? Also does this kit come with everthing i need to get started or will i have to purchase anything else to hook it up? I am on a tight budget and will not have a bottle heater, is this ok or will the pressure not be high enough in the tank. If this is so i heard this will cause a rich condition?(due to the fact that the fuel solinoid will be spraying the amount for say a 50 shot but not enough nitrous will be present due to low pressure.) It will probably be at least 80 degrees outside when i will be spaying. I plan to have the pressure guage but besides this no others for now, is this ok? Oh yeh i also plan to get a harlan window switch, these dont need any modifications like the msds i hear about and is this a good window switch to have? sorry for all the ?'s just want to be clear on something as important as nitrous,thanks

 

I would strongly recommend getting a bottle heater, or like you said, you run the risk of running rich. I would also strongly recommend getting some gauges, EGT and fuel pressure. You won't be running any extra fuel pressure, but you will be running a lot more flow, and a fuel pressure gauge is a good way to monitor your fuel system for any drops in pressure from a weak pump or a bad connection. You want an EGT to tell if your running rich or lean. Lastly, are you 5spd or auto, if 5spd, you may need a new clutch. Sure a 50 shot should only add about 50 hp, but it'll add 75+ ft/lbs of tq, and that may test the limits of your stock clutch if your 5spd. Good luck!

 

Oh man, I am about to install a NX kit with a 75 shot and I am a 5 speed. Wonder how many times I can use my nitrous before I need a new clutch, I also have 85k on the clutch and it does not slip.

 

You will need a T for fuel, the one that comes with the kit it too small you need a 1/8" NPT Tee and 2, 1/8 NPT to 5/16 Barb fittings. The fitting that comes with the kit will then screw into that remaining 1/8 hole in the T.

If you don't have a heater you can do what a lot of people do and put it in the front seat by the heater outlet until it comes up to temp. Don't foget to turn the heater and fan on. A bottle temp of abour 80 should do it.

Lots of folks run without a window switch too, its a safety measure against hitting the limiter, not required for an auto if you let it shift on its own, but can happen if you aren't watching on a 5 speed. As long as you know that the engine will blow if you hit the limiter with the spray on.

I also use a mechanical Fuel Pressure gauge, (about $10) and run it under the windshield wipers so I can see it from inside the car. Don't put a mechanical FP gauge in the cabin.

Also like mtrai760 said, get an EGT so you want monitor the temp.

Thats it from the cheap seat.

 

Ya the tee that comes with it is made for civics
Our fuel lines are bigger and require the above supplies.
I learned the hard way. Good thing Frank was supercharged =]
I have when Autozone closes early on sunday

I would fork out the extra money and do it right, or do it twice.
Thats my motto, you buy cheap, you buy twice.

EGT is a must...Although still leanrning how to read mine

TOp of third gear n/a i was at 1400 F.
Top of third squeezing I was at 1600.

SO I dont think im leaning, yet i dunno

 

thanks for the info, but what kind of window switch should i go with? there are harlan,msd,and the nx one. Is there any one else who makes them? I was thinking of going with the harlan one is this a quality product? thanks

 

Wait Jime, are you saying that I need to buy 3 tees to hook up my system? Where do I buy them?

 

1 (One) T, 1/8 NPT if you get it at HomeDepot or a Hardware store they are brass, if you get it from a speed shop they are still brass but chrome coated and cost mucho. The 2 barbed fittings screw in each end of the T and you cut the fuel line at the filter discharge (top) and insert it. The fitting that comes with the kit for the fuel will screw into the other hole.

Buy some fuel hose clamps, DO NOT use those cheapies.

Read this http://www.roberts.ezpublishing.com/croberts/hose.htm for some info on how to start a fire in your car.

 

You dont want to rip the hose trying to tighten the clamp.
once again, i learned the hard way

 

Where do you get one of those (fuel hose clamps)?

 

Any auto supply store should have them. They are a little more expensive and you have to get the right size but you cannot cut the fuel line like you can with the cheapie hose clamp.

 

Do you have a pic of what it should look like?

 

Yes, It looks like the one on the right. Very similar to the stock ones that came on my car.

 

So what about my window switch question,anyone?

 

Jime, what do you mean the fitting will screw into the remaining hole in the t? the fitting i got with the kit is already screwed onto the t and then the fuel line screws onto that fitting. So it has one female end which is on the t and the male end which the line hooks up to. Would'nt i need to buy a fitting threaded on both sides to to this?

 

The T you get with the kit is too small so you don't use it at all it is only 1/4". The only piece you use is the fitting for the end of the braided line which will screw into the new 1/8" NPT Tee you will need.

 

Ok i get that the T given in the kit is too small. Your saying that i need the fitting that screws onto the braided line though. I get this so far. what i am saying is the new T has three holes and the fitting from the old T cant screw into the hole in the new T since they are two females. Did i not buy the right new T?

 

Ok, you are right I forgot I had a male fitting from the D/P kit my Son had. You will have to get a 1/8" NPT to 1/8 NPT close nipple or short nipple to tie them together. I usually take my fittings with me to the store and say ok, I have this and I want to adapt to this and try and find it.

I wish I had a picture it would make it a lot easier.

 

Ok thanks i was getting confused. The guy at the speed shop i bought my fittings at was tellling me "dont do it like that use your test port" Do are cars even have that and is'nt ok to tap the fuel line right after the fuel filter? Also does anyone with the nx kit have some pics of their fpss and fuel guage,thanks

 

We do not have a test port. Also when you have a fpss and fuel gauge you have to T from a T to another T to another T, for every outlet you have you need an additonal T. Got 3 outlets, fuel for nitrous, fpss and fuel gauge, you need 3 T's.

Ok here is a pic of my fuel cell, I have one outlet to the nozzle, one for the fpss (shown) and I for a dump I will use the empty the cell. One T is needed for each.

 

That looks pretty complicated,thanks though but for the fpss I thought it just hooks up off the fuel solinoid with the d-4 manifold?

 

Oh and also i saw the fpss comes preset for 35psi, so if i just throw it on there wont i be ok without adjusting it? Since i believe stock maxima's fuel pressure at wot is like 42psi. I mean it is better than not having it at all so if I lose all pressure it will not arm.

 

Yes you should be ok with the 35 but I would check it anyway, its much easier with wet because we use stock fuel pressure so you can just put a meter across the terminals and adjust and when you lose continuity just back off from that setting and it should be ok. You don't want to get it set to close to the limit because it could trip advertantly.

If you have the blue manifold then yes you can use that, it is still just another T, same thing.

 

Jime now I am confused. I am going to install the wet kit soon. I know I will need a new fuel hose clamp. Then you said we need new tees, which ones do we need?

 

Sorry for the confusion. This is really simple.

Just take the T that came with the kit, (its for 1/4" fuel hose ie Honda) go to the nearest automotive supply store and tell them you want the required fitting(s) so that it will work on 5/16" fuel hose. (which is what you have).

The only confusing part is that it will probably take 3 or 4 fittings because its virtually impossible to get a T in one piece that will do that. That one is made special for NX.

 

Jime whats up with the fuel cell??? I'm a little confused at that i've been spraying for a little over a year at 100 shot and i've never heard of putting a fuel cell in. What or how does that help? Thanks Brian

 

Also when i screw the shark nozzle into the mounting nut it came with the bottom jet of the 2 in the nozzle sits below the top part of the mounting nut is this right? In the instructions they also call the fitting that screws into the inlet side of the nitrous solenoid a N2O filter yet I see no filter inside of this fitting, is this right?

 

Jime I found this website, which fittings do we need? Preff If you can list the part numbers from the web site.Click

 

Do you need to buy the same things for a 3rd gen as the 4th gen? I'm about to buy a NX Wet kit from a guy with a 3rd gen and am wondering if I'll need to purchase other things

 

Here is a picture. They don't have any T's in the right size and no nipples on that site. This is what you need. The T is actually 1/8 inch but just pretend its 1/8 like I have it labelled.

Zeff789, Yes

Eddy I can't visualize what you are saying about the nut. They are talking about a strainer (filter) for the nitrous on the solenoid, you may or may not have one, I cannot remember it they are optional or not.

Brian I am just buying a little insurance with the fuel cell, I plan on running C16 (117 Octane) hopefully it will help keep detonation at bay when I try some higher shots. This is just for the nitrous, the injectors will still be running on pump gas.

 

Yes there is a stainer inside the solenoid not the fitting though which the instructions say it is. Anyway on the shark nozzle spraying side, there are two holes or jets i guess one is for gas one for nitrous(one vertical one horizontal). When i screw the nozzle into the retaining nut the top of the two holes goes above it where as the bottom of the two holes is still kinda below the top of the nut in the threads but thats as far as it threads into the nut. Thanks sorry everyone is prob drivin u nuts

 

Are you sure you have the adapter nut in the right way? If it is reversed the nozzle will not screw in properly because it is a NPT (National Pipe Thread) and they are tapered and MUST be put in the right way. Hard to tell by looking at it because that is the smallest NPT size there is.

The only other thing is, how thick is the material you drilled the hole in?

 

It will only screw on one way (tried both) and it is in the way the instructions say too. I just figures both the jets would be higher than the top part of the nut(there are still 2 threads that are left when nozzle is all the way screwed into the nut, i guess bc its tapered). I din't put it on yet i was thinkin either the rubber that connects midpipe to throttle body if its ok? Or my frankencar midpipe.

 

Eddy I wouldn't put it in the rubber connector. When 1000 psi hits that line it moves and it should be mounted on something solid. Even the line from the bottle to the solenoid moves a fair bit. I would be afraid of it moving around in the rubber.

Put it on the midpipe.

 

Jime so did you understand what i was saying about the shark nozzle? Also i guess i will put it in the midpipe(i for got about all the pressure) its just that if i ever take it off i will have a hole there.

 

I'd like to see a picture of what it looks like.

Its pretty easy to get a plug to put in the midpipe hole if you want to remove it later.

Also don't put the nozzle right on the bottom like I did the first time, its too hard to change jets down there, put it on the side or slightly to the top, that way when you remove the hose the jet stays put, they are very small and easy to drop.

 

Wow Jime: thanks for the pics. I will probably go and buy them today at the hardware store.

 

how many fuel hose clamps do I need to get? I am thinking of 3.

 

Bump, maybe 4.

 

You want one clamp for each point a line joins with a tap. Thus for every tap you need 2 clamps. 3 taps x 2 clamps = 6 clamps Don't cheap out on something like a $1 clamp. BTW tighten the taps in a vise. Mine have a slight leak, so I have to pull them and retighten.
-hype