heard that n20 isnt recommended with platinum plugs but I was wondering since 35 shot isnt too wild, if I can get away using my stock platinum plugs with factory spec gap. if not then can I just get away with copper NGK with factory gapping? I dont want to run colder plugs since I still want my N/A performance.

 

I ran a 55 shot dry, with the stock plat plugs for a while with no problems. A 35 shot should be fine.

 

I run two steps colder gapped at .035 and it doesn't hurt my N/A performance, people who tell you that speak with forked tongue.

 

Ive been running a 50 shot for a while on start plugs with stock settings and have had no problems, just make sure u run 93 octain... Im moving up to a 75 shot, and im going to keep stock plugs, just change the gap size to .036

-Chris

 

went with a 50 shot on stock plugs and gap. No problem. Even had one of the pro-street guys read my plugs for me. He said one of the plugs actually looked rich and the rest looked perfect. Spray away!

 

Well, my engine hasn't been working properly and I took it to the dealer and they told me it was the copper plugs i installed. They said the vq35 is very picky on plugs.

My car has been hesitating and actially dropping 500 RPMs between 3200 and 3800 rpm...

Im gonna change them back to plugs and check if this whole Colder Range N/A crap is true...

 

I wouldn't comment on the VQ35, just the 3L, totally different ball game with the new ones I guess.

 

Hey Killer, keep us posted on what goes on. You and SR20 are the only two that I know have been spraying big on the 3.5 and now you both have trouble. I think I'll keep mine down to the 75 shot right now.

Have you been checking your plugs after running the 100 and the 125 shot?

 

hey........i heard they DONT make copper plugs for the 2k2..cuz the reach of the plug is way long. Ive called NGK about this directly...like the 2k2 plug is a good 3/8" LONGER than the 3.0L plug...

 

Based on my dynos and others I have to disagree Jim. Even 1 step colder plugs with stock gapping seems to decrease performance some.
-hype

 

Is the loss significant? and will running stock platinums hurt the engine with shots up to 75? Im worried about running too lean. I have'nt sprayed yet b/c I need to get my hands on 35 and 50 shot jet. I want to break in slow hoping this is the right thing to do. Would running a 75 shot on an engine with 120k miles be bad?

Do you think NOS will sell these jets seperately?

Also does anyone remember the ref # for ngk 1 step colder?

 

I have done back to back N/A runs with stock plugs, stock gap and then 2 steps colder gapped at .035 with no difference at all in ET.

Don't run platinums, period, if you care about your engine, (which you must because you are asking).

Go to your local speed shop for jets, they are available separately.

BKR6E is one step colder copper, two steps is BKR7E.

I don't really think anyone could tell the difference between HP on a dyno between different range plugs. Heck with all the variation between runs with no change in anything how could anyone possibly measure something that small even if there were a difference?

 

I would also like to know how you could tell a difference?
The copper plugs are very inexpensive. You can pick them up at most motorcycle shops or online for well under $3.00 a plug.

Why take a chance? Manufacturers recommend a colder plug for a reason.

Big Cracker

 

I have N/A dynos of my car with stock heat range plugs and one-step colder plugs. I lost ~5 peak hp & ~10 peak tq, not to mention losses at all RPMs.

Moreover, because I'm not planning to get a nitrous fillup anytime soon, this past weekend I replaced my colder plugs with the stock heat range ones, and I immediately noticed a difference. Even without me telling my brother, he noticed/said my car seemed quicker.

 

I measure performance at the track. When I drop two steps colder and close the gap to .035 and there is no difference in ET to me that means no difference in performance.

People can say all they want about dyno numbers but dynos are all over the place, my ET's aren't. They stay within .02-.03 maximum (usually less) for a given setup on a given day.

You can probably tell from my response I am not dyno friendly. Dyno's only measure HP and Torque they don't measure performance.

 

there is something else going on there bro. what were they gapped to(both plugs)

 

The stock heat range plugs were gapped to stock specs - .043. The colder plugs were gapped to .038 or so.

Jim, I'm not doubting the performance of your car. We all know how quick it is. What I'm trying to get at is that I don't know of any Maximas that have dynoed stock & colder plugs and have gotten similar #'s. Everytime there has been a decent loss in power (for some more, for some less). The track maybe the indicator of performance to you, but to many others like me who don't go to the track, the dyno is.

 

Bottom line is to read your plugs and raise or lower heat range accordingly. If it is black and sooty your too cold. If its white your too hot. Colder plugs have the major benefit of removing over 100 deg F from your engine heat range colder so its beneficial to use the coldest heat range that still gives good combustion.

Obviously all of our engines have different mods and put out different HP levels so may respond differently to colder plugs. Mine works great N/A with two steps colder, I still run 14.6 with an automatic. Experiment and find whats best for you.

To me getting the best from your engine takes experimentation and imagination, its like being part of a dog sled team, "If your not the lead dog the scenery never changes".

Running a plug that is too cold wll NOT hurt your engine, it will only foul the plug, running one that is too hot can cause detonation and pre-ignition and can severely damage your engine.

 

yea i was told running 1 step colder decreases my performance for NA. like jime said, everyone's car is different personally i didn't feel any lose of power at all. but again i don't have the dyno to back it up... we'll c

 

thats the thing, some have dynos to back up a loss in power, some have timeslips to back up a no loss. still wondering what plug to get.

im going to be 99% of the time NA and that 1% will be on a 50 shot. stock range coppers with a 42 gap seems like it will handle it well?

 

back to the dyno thing...
i don't understand how you could TRULY say that it(colder plugs NA) is causing a loss in HP?

dyno runs are inconsistent i.e. temp., humidity, some dynos are more conservative(lower hp rating) in most cases.

and if the loss of that much HP is that big of a deal...

go back to the drawing board

 

Sorry for the really late response...
Well It turns out I never really had a problem. I simply had the incorrect plugs in. And as chinaonnitrous1 said, NGK does not make a copper plug for the 2k2. When I changed them I didn't realize the lenghts, I was too sure of them becuase Jime recommened them. But he was recommending them for the 3.0. I have a comparison picture. The plug is about 1/2" longer.

NGK does make a platinum heat range colder plug though..

Matt, SR20, has his problems because the way he was spraying.. He really wanted to kick that cobra's A$$.. He was also on a 175 shot on stock internals..

To Top it off, I never really bothered checking my plugs. Too much of a hassle to get the the most important ones in the rear..

If you want to see the pic...Let me know

 

I found out about these plugs a couple of weeks ago when I tried to spray a Sentra, they use the same plugs as the Maxima. I was going to put in the copper BK7ES's that I have, but when I took out the stock plugs they have over a 1" reach. So I did a little looking and as you say there is no copper replacement for these double platinum plugs. The only option is colder platinum or the Bosh +4 platinum, so I would stay with the NGK's.

 

difference in 3.0 and 3.5 plugs