Clarification, Verification, etc.
#1
Clarification, Verification, etc.
I've read through the stickies and just want to verify a few things as well as ask various questions that I have with regards to a 50 shot nitrous setup.
1. It's better to run a dry kit, preferably NX rather than NOS.
2. With an automatic transmission, a window switch is not necessary but eases the strain placed on the transmission (Is this true?)
3. Nitrous setups can be set to spray only at WOT and will do so only when the system is armed/on (with the flick of a switch).
4. I have the DR mod installed in the engine bay and bolted to the manifold, not under the gas pedal; will this be a problem and will I have to relocate it?
5. What "accessories" are necessary to supplement the basic NX dry kit if I want nitrous to flow only at WOT and only after I manually arm it in my 96 automatic?
6. I live in an area where the summer temperature and humidity flirts with triple digits; would a nitrous bottle in my trunk be a poor choice for placement?
7. Is it safe to run a 50 shot NX dry kit with the stock ECU? I currently have the Technosquare upgrade and know I shouldn't run any sort of FI with it.
8. Assume a scenario: car is at WOT however nitrous system is NOT armed. Can I arm it at say, 80mph and have it spray then on or is this a bad idea? If so, why? Basically, I'm asking if the Fast and the Furious was accurate (activating nitrous while already at WOT and probably high RPM).
My thanks to those who have installed nitrous kits in their Maximas and have posted here; your advice is invaluable.
~THT
1. It's better to run a dry kit, preferably NX rather than NOS.
2. With an automatic transmission, a window switch is not necessary but eases the strain placed on the transmission (Is this true?)
3. Nitrous setups can be set to spray only at WOT and will do so only when the system is armed/on (with the flick of a switch).
4. I have the DR mod installed in the engine bay and bolted to the manifold, not under the gas pedal; will this be a problem and will I have to relocate it?
5. What "accessories" are necessary to supplement the basic NX dry kit if I want nitrous to flow only at WOT and only after I manually arm it in my 96 automatic?
6. I live in an area where the summer temperature and humidity flirts with triple digits; would a nitrous bottle in my trunk be a poor choice for placement?
7. Is it safe to run a 50 shot NX dry kit with the stock ECU? I currently have the Technosquare upgrade and know I shouldn't run any sort of FI with it.
8. Assume a scenario: car is at WOT however nitrous system is NOT armed. Can I arm it at say, 80mph and have it spray then on or is this a bad idea? If so, why? Basically, I'm asking if the Fast and the Furious was accurate (activating nitrous while already at WOT and probably high RPM).
My thanks to those who have installed nitrous kits in their Maximas and have posted here; your advice is invaluable.
~THT
#2
I have heard that spraying with any aftermarket computer is bad, unless it is designed to have an input for nitrous like the daughter board for JWT computer. Most computers advance the timing, and you need to retard the timing to spray with the computer. There is a box that you can buy that will retard the timing, but it is expensive... about $400-500. I can't remember the name of the box right now, but someone here will. If you do a Nitrous kit, you want a WOT switch so it is only spraying when there is plenty of fuel. DR mod in engine bay is fine. Make sure you put in a blow off valve for the bottle, I have read nearly 1500psi at only 85 degrees in the D.C. area. The window switch is not necessary with an auto, as soon as you go WOT you should have plenty of fuel, and revs not to be a problem. It is also no problem to arm the system at 80MPH, but unlike F&F you probably won't be spinning the tires off the car arming that late. The things you will want to buy on top of the kit are a bottle heater, nitrous guage, Walbro 255 fuel pump, 94 octane gas. This should give you a little help on the way to spray.
#4
Originally Posted by THT
I've read through the stickies and just want to verify a few things as well as ask various questions that I have with regards to a 50 shot nitrous setup.
1. It's better to run a dry kit, preferably NX rather than NOS.
2. With an automatic transmission, a window switch is not necessary but eases the strain placed on the transmission (Is this true?)
3. Nitrous setups can be set to spray only at WOT and will do so only when the system is armed/on (with the flick of a switch).
4. I have the DR mod installed in the engine bay and bolted to the manifold, not under the gas pedal; will this be a problem and will I have to relocate it?
5. What "accessories" are necessary to supplement the basic NX dry kit if I want nitrous to flow only at WOT and only after I manually arm it in my 96 automatic?
6. I live in an area where the summer temperature and humidity flirts with triple digits; would a nitrous bottle in my trunk be a poor choice for placement?
7. Is it safe to run a 50 shot NX dry kit with the stock ECU? I currently have the Technosquare upgrade and know I shouldn't run any sort of FI with it.
8. Assume a scenario: car is at WOT however nitrous system is NOT armed. Can I arm it at say, 80mph and have it spray then on or is this a bad idea? If so, why? Basically, I'm asking if the Fast and the Furious was accurate (activating nitrous while already at WOT and probably high RPM).
My thanks to those who have installed nitrous kits in their Maximas and have posted here; your advice is invaluable.
~THT
1. It's better to run a dry kit, preferably NX rather than NOS.
2. With an automatic transmission, a window switch is not necessary but eases the strain placed on the transmission (Is this true?)
3. Nitrous setups can be set to spray only at WOT and will do so only when the system is armed/on (with the flick of a switch).
4. I have the DR mod installed in the engine bay and bolted to the manifold, not under the gas pedal; will this be a problem and will I have to relocate it?
5. What "accessories" are necessary to supplement the basic NX dry kit if I want nitrous to flow only at WOT and only after I manually arm it in my 96 automatic?
6. I live in an area where the summer temperature and humidity flirts with triple digits; would a nitrous bottle in my trunk be a poor choice for placement?
7. Is it safe to run a 50 shot NX dry kit with the stock ECU? I currently have the Technosquare upgrade and know I shouldn't run any sort of FI with it.
8. Assume a scenario: car is at WOT however nitrous system is NOT armed. Can I arm it at say, 80mph and have it spray then on or is this a bad idea? If so, why? Basically, I'm asking if the Fast and the Furious was accurate (activating nitrous while already at WOT and probably high RPM).
My thanks to those who have installed nitrous kits in their Maximas and have posted here; your advice is invaluable.
~THT
2. from what i've heard, yes
3. yes
4. no, but just remember to unplug it before u spray
5. nothing, the basic nx kit comes with a wot switch and activation switch
6. not at all... a warmer bottle results in higher pressure.... meaning more power!
it's a good idea to buy a bottle heater....
7. im not sure, so ill let someone who knows better answer this...
8. yes u can arm it anytime as long as ur at WOT... that's usually how i spray.... ill go wot first... then once the rpms go up high enough, i will activate the n2o....
#5
Originally Posted by TAPOUT
I have heard that spraying with any aftermarket computer is bad, unless it is designed to have an input for nitrous like the daughter board for JWT computer. Most computers advance the timing, and you need to retard the timing to spray with the computer. There is a box that you can buy that will retard the timing, but it is expensive... about $400-500. I can't remember the name of the box right now, but someone here will. If you do a Nitrous kit, you want a WOT switch so it is only spraying when there is plenty of fuel. DR mod in engine bay is fine. Make sure you put in a blow off valve for the bottle, I have read nearly 1500psi at only 85 degrees in the D.C. area. The window switch is not necessary with an auto, as soon as you go WOT you should have plenty of fuel, and revs not to be a problem. It is also no problem to arm the system at 80MPH, but unlike F&F you probably won't be spinning the tires off the car arming that late. The things you will want to buy on top of the kit are a bottle heater, nitrous guage, Walbro 255 fuel pump, 94 octane gas. This should give you a little help on the way to spray.
NX wet kit, maybe one step colder plugs, and the box he is talking about is the J&S Safeguard
You do not need the fuel pump since the injectors are not going to be taxed more than they normally are (wet kit uses fuel and N2O nozzles). It sprays fuel and N2O at the same time. So for the average users, the NX Wet kit is the way to go. It's very accurate and provides lots of good service. It's also pretty easy to install and use. Personally, I wouldn't use a WOT switch as I'd prefer to control it manually (especially in an auto...but to each his own). Bottle heater and N2O gauge are pretty much needed equipment, but some make due without. Good fuel is a must. The drop resistor is a VERY good idea since that will allow the tranny to shift at maximum line pressure (and save the tranny from most/all slippage). Right now, that's all I can think of...
#7
Originally Posted by THT
Is the Stage I NX kit sold by SWA the kit I want to be using?
Quicksilver, why would you recommend manually controlling the spray?
~THT
Quicksilver, why would you recommend manually controlling the spray?
~THT
With an auto tranny, the WOT switch will always be depressed, meaing you will be spraying while shifting. That is not real good for the tranny (even with the drop resistor mod). The 5/6 speed manual guys lift off the gas for a split second, so they are not spraying during the gear change...thus saving some tranny life. That's my thoughts on the matter...
#8
Here's something I haven't seen mentioned much on hear. A general rule of thumb with nitrous is to reduce base timing 2 degrees for every 50hp shot.
So basically with 50hp jet's, you should reduce the timing from the stock 15 deg. to 13 deg.
So basically with 50hp jet's, you should reduce the timing from the stock 15 deg. to 13 deg.
#9
Originally Posted by FNG
Here's something I haven't seen mentioned much on hear. A general rule of thumb with nitrous is to reduce base timing 2 degrees for every 50hp shot.
So basically with 50hp jet's, you should reduce the timing from the stock 15 deg. to 13 deg.
So basically with 50hp jet's, you should reduce the timing from the stock 15 deg. to 13 deg.
So how do you reduce the timing on our VQ35 powered cars...without using the Consult II, that is.
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