michaelnyden

iTrader: (15)

what is the maximum amount of nitrous on a 3.5L 02-03 would you suggest a person runs to still maintain reliability and not throw a rod (highest dry shot someone should run and the highest wet shot someone should run) I don't know the fuel pumps limitations on the 3.5L....

scopium

dont know about 3.5.. but on an 01 auto .. wouldnt go more than 50 shots..

maybe 3.5 can handle 75 -125 not sure
post this in the boosted forum

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

I've seen 150 shot through a 6spd 350Z. I dunno if the stock clutch will take the abuse. I seen 100 shot go through a Auto 3.5L, granted the tranny didn't last too long with that much abuse. Both times, wet shot.

michaelnyden

iTrader: (15)

I was just wondering for an 02-03 6spd....what the stock clutch and tranny and fuel pump would be able to support...??? you think a 75 shot dry on would be okay and a 125 wet?

with an upgraded clutch of course...

Jime

iTrader: (10)

I would suggest a 75 shot or less unless you have a fair amount of nitrous experience and have the necessary electronics to measure and adjust air/fuel. Thats why most of the nitrous companies only give you jets up to that HP. They don't want you to blow it up either.

Even a 35 shot is a pretty big kick in the pants but you can still blow an engine if not setup and controlled properly, hit the rev limiter too long, leave the traction control on etc.

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

If I read correctly, you wanna do 2 diff NOS kits on your car ? 75 dry and 125 wet ? I doubt the engine will hold up without serious side effects I would try out a 75 shot 1st, it will feel so good that you should be happy with it for few months till ya learn bout NOS more and more and are capable of tuning your A/F with NOS on. Just watch out, NOS will eat away at the chromoly rings in our engines causing you some oil consumption problems, not at 1st but over time it will.

SeaFoam2DMax

This I have not heard of before, would you care to explain?

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

Nitrous is highly corrosive, over time it will eat away at chromoly rings and you will see increased oil consumtion problems. My friends have ran NOS wet and dry kits for years, and they experience slowly gradual increase in oil burning. Uppon doing a cylinder leak down test, we found out by adding oil to the cylinders ( wet test) the compression readings would go up- by a large margin.

SeaFoam2DMax

After how much use? Please excuse the questions, I'm just attempting to learn as much as possible.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Nitrous power causes engine WEAR - RUBBISH!!!!!

The points listed below are ALL FACTS
They are NOT MY OPINIONS.

Point 1),
What ALL novices and many "self proclaimed experts" don't "know" or "realise" is that MOST engine wear occurs on "start up" (as any oil company will tell you), because there is NO OIL between the moving parts.

Point 2)
The second aspect of wear (for some engine components), is engine speed (rpm).
Obviously if an engine was run at 1,000rpm for a given length of time it would have 1/10th of the wear that an engine ran at 10,000rpm would have.
Most conventional tuning INCREASES the rpm at which peak power is achieved so if you use that power you will increase engine wear.

Point 3)
Nitrous is the ONLY tuning product that creates such a MASSIVE increase in "torque" and the maximum "torque" is generated at LOW to MID rpm.
Consequently if you wanted to extend engine life (REDUCE WEAR), you could do this and increase performance (at the same time), by using a Nitrous system and changing gear at a lower rpm than without gas.
Used this way NITROUS use will result in REDUCED ENGINE WEAR.

Point 4)
The components responsible for MOST WEAR in an engine are the camshaft and followers, because they are made from the hardest materials in the engine and are subjected to the highest frictional loads / forces.
They wear at a high rate (frequently being the first major parts to need replacing).
The VERY hard particles that are produced by the wearing of these components get pumped around the engine causing accelerated wear in parts like the bottom end bearings, pistons etc.
The best way to reduce camshaft wear is to run the engine at higher rpm because the cam lobes and followers are not in contact for as long as when running at low rpm.
The faster you accelerate the engine to high rpm the shorter the time that the followers are in contact with the cam lobes.
Guess what, Nitrous accelerates (reduces) the rpm rise time and consequently reduces cam & follower wear.

Point 5)
The final BUT MOST IMPORTANT point that 99.9% of people seem to forget or overlook, is that Nitrous is ONLY used for a few SECONDS at a time. So even if ALL the above was RUBBISH, this very short use period would have such a microscopic effect on wear that it would NOT be worth considering (which is why I don't make a big thing about Nitrous actually REDUCING engine wear).
I drive my car to work and back every day which takes about 1 hour. Lets assume (to make things simple for the likes of the odd plant life that occasionally visits our board), that wear is consistent under all
conditions (even though it's NOT). I'll probably use the Nitrous system 5 or 6 times for about 3 to 5 seconds at a time (maximum use 30 seconds).
So in a journey that lasts 3,600 seconds the gas is used for just 30 seconds that equates to less than 1%.
The more you use your car the smaller the percentage of time the Nitrous is used.
Even if Nitrous increases wear (WHICH IT DOES NOT), a maximum of 1% does not seem worth mentioning to me!

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

Please explain to me how 2 indentical engines- one shooting NOS, other NA- NOS one starts to consume oil after consecutive 125 shots of NOS. I have taken the engine apart and compared the 2 motors, the rings where all eatten away by the use of NOS. No this is not from detonation or anything. NOS cools the engine by far, and thus reduces a chance of detonation on a turbocharged car- this is why alot of HIGH HP turbo cars use a small shot of NOS to keep the combustion chambers free of detonation. I'm sayn if you use quite alot of NOS- 2-3 tanks a month, you will subsequently have oil consumption problems. The Data I have geathered was on my friends 200SX SE-R with a stock SR20DE with I/H/E/JWT ECU with 370cc injectors and 125shot of NOS, Cams. Engine was 147K miles old, compared to other 150K mile engines this engine had a ton of blow by and low compression readings. Don't try to shoot 125 shot of NOS on a VQ or you will be picking rod bolts from your oil pan.

SeaFoam2DMax

Wow, that was long. Maybe this should make it to a sticky? Thanks Jime


So Jime, how are your rod bolts?

Jime

iTrader: (10)

I'm gonna pick em up tomorrow morning.

Actually I don't use NOS anyway so I'm exempt.

Regardless nitrous does not eat rings. I wouldn't dispute that the rings were eaten away, just that it wasn't from nitrous being corrosive.

Nitrous is composed of nitrogen and oxygen the same as the air we breathe and the same air that is already being used for combustion. The only difference is that the percentage of oxygen is 35% in nitrous vs 21% in the air we breathe.

So if you are saying that nitrous is corrosive then so is the atmospheric air that is being used for an N/A engine because they both contain oxygen and nitrogen just the percentages are a little different.

TAPOUT

iTrader: (5)

I lost compression in cylinder 1 from nitrous (common for it to run lean), and it is from bending a valve. I will be happy to tell anyone who is willing to listen that it is not the fault of N2O, and its "corrosive" nature. I don't think I have ever heard something so absurd. My rings are just fine, and soon, so will my valve be. bigger shot to come when fixed.

SeaFoam2DMax

So what exactly bent the valve, detonation?

TAPOUT

iTrader: (5)

I ran lean, and it got too hot.

SeaFoam2DMax

Note to self, do not run lean.