Hey what are my options as far as warming my nitrous bottle. propane torches are a no, no. bottle warmers are 100-150bucks, is the only thing I am left with is putting the bottle under the dash and turn the heat on during the ride to the track.

I was wondering what setups you guys are running

 

Before I got my bottle warmer I too asked this question. To be honest just save up the 150 and get the warmer its worth it.

 

yeah I just got a pm from Justin he said 112 for a zex warmer, but just wanted to see if anyone had any tips out there

 

Ah yes... I ran out of money after the kit, remote opener, and various crap, but plan on the dynotunenitrous.com heater ($109) once I get some cash

 

I used to heat up my bottle under the dash with the heat blasting.. And it did make a difference. Made the car pull a little bit more.. As long as the bottle was at least 1/2 or more full.. Then I got a warmer (NOS brand $129 at a local speed shop) hooowly chit, what a difference. Good to the last drop. Enough said.

 

ok I get, get the warmer. I did some overtime at work today

 

hey thanks for the site I might get the delay box for my truck

 

+1 for a warmer also. You will be able to utilize more of the nitrous at higher pressure than without. Another point is: wintertime is coming. This will cause a drop in your psi due to the colder temperatures. The bottle warmer will combat that.

 

right now I am only getting about 600-650psi. I was told to get a warmer that go by temp and not psi. I was told that psi warmers you have to turn the bottle on and after awhile this will cause you solinod to stick

 

You will not be able to tell the pressure with just a temperature reading. For instance, if the bottle were almost full, it will take less heat for the pressure within the bottle to reach an optimum level. If you had a lower amount of nitrous in the bottle, it will take more heat to get it close to the optimum level. You don't have to turn the bottle on to use the warmer. But it is definitely recommended. The shut-off relay is connected so the bottle will not get overpressurized. When using nitrous, the bottle needs to be open. That's when a bottle warmer is used. So in conclusion, using the bottle warmer during nitrous use will not cause the nitrous solenoid to malfunction.

 

^ I agree.

The warmers that come with pressure switch are made to be used while bottle is open. otherwise the warmer will never turn off because it does not know where the pressure is at. Dont worry about the solonoids sticking because of that reason, they are meant to hold back high pressures. 1050psi is best for NX wet kits. Guys at the track leave the bottles open the entire day and have no problems with solenoids. Just make sure when you finish your day of nitrous runs and close the bottle, to either purge the line, or disconnect the line from the bottle so you dont leave nitrous pressure inside the line over night, THAT will defently screw ur solonoids up over time.

 

I am going with the zex warmer for 112.00, till then the bottle will be under the dash till I get to the track

How much of a differance in hp would it be with a 55shot with 700psi compared to 1000psi

 

dude, dont waste nitrous by spraying at 700. if ur not ready to spray how ur supposed to at 1000 or 1050, then dont waste the money on it, ur NOT going to be happy with the results. difference between 700psi and 1000psi, is like comparing a stock civic to a corvette, at least thats how it feels. with 55shot at 700 thats going to be like 30hp if anything.

 

I did spray it at 700psi cause I was dying to see what it would do, I run 16.3 with a bad k/s and y-pipe and 15.07 with a 55shot at 700psi both runs with no weight reduction. I am getting a new k/s already ordered and bottle warmer. I am hoping this will get me a mid to low 14sec run.
My goal is a 13.9 run, I figure to get me there I'll take out the passanger and back seat, spare and jack, 1step colder plugs, mazada milliena wheels and a 75shot

 

Not to burst your bubble, but the 75 shot probably will not drop your time from a 16.3 to a 13.9xx. You will need some slicks or drag radials to get close to your goal. You will definitely be in the 14.xx second range though!

 

the 16.3 was with low bottle pressure, a bad knock sensor and probably a bad run. i think a 13.9 is definitely possible.

 

IF your 16 sec run was because of the knock sensor, and ur going to change it, that should put you in 15's n/a. I am automatic, and i ran 14.2 the last time i went to the track. my 60' was 2.3 which means I basically have a 13 second car if i improve the 60' just a lil bit. i didnt spray till 3k rpm, and had some spin. I am now with 22" Slicks, going to spray from the line, and some slight tuning, I should expect mid to low 13s. I did the 14.2 run with my Titanium 2k3 rims which weigh 55lbs with tires. the slicks are mounted the sawblades, total weight is 37 and are shorter, so mid to low 13's is very possible with 75. if your doing things properly. hopefully you have drop resistor mod installed. if not, ur tranny is not going to make it back from the track. goodluck

 

when I ran 16.3 I was not running nitrous at all and no weight reduction, this was a baseline run to see were I am starting, my 2nd run was a 15.07 with a 55shot of nitrous and low bottle pressure and no weight reduction. Both runs were with a bad k/s so I know for a fact with a good k/s and better bottle pressure mid 14sec runs are not a problem. Then when you add weight reduction, up the shot from 55 to 75hp and the mazda wheels which only weight 11lbs 13.9 should not be a problem.

oh and I just disconnect the resistor when I am at the track and already pulling 2.2 60ft's with the 55shot

And please let me know when you make a run with your new setup, I interested in what kind of times it gets you

 

Good luck man! I really hope you do get into the 13 second range. I didn't see that you had a bad knock sensor. It's very possible. I am hoping to get a 12 second run with the new setup. *fingers crossed

 

what is your new setup, I am looking to see how much it will cost to get into the 12's
my guess is drag radials, more weight reduction and nitrous (around 100-125), better fuel pump, and afpr. I pretty sure I missed alot

If it costs too much I'll just put the money in my truck. A posi rear(250.00), 100shot nitrous(300.00), delay box(65.00) and traction bars(100-350) .. for about 1000.00 bucks I'm there

 

I hope to get into the 12s with a 75 shot on 245/40/17 BFGoodrich G-force KD street tires. My little cousin took my car to the track when I was at work and he ran a 14.3 in 100+ degree weather during the summer with full interior and 2 amps (without nitrous). He said he could of gotten a better 60' if he had launched higher. He launched at 900 rpm (Auto FTL). Only things I added was a ZEX wet kit with bottle warmer, modified intake manifold, gutted cat, and new Work wheels. I plan on going soon before it gets too cold. It should run well in 50 degree weather.

Stuff I had already for the 14.3 second run: GAB, Hotshot headers, Warpspeed b-pipe and stock muffler. DR mod also.

 

2002's have the 3.5 right

 

why no y-pipe?

 

Yes, they have the 3.5L. Hotshot headers include the downpipe.

My downpipe:

 

Hot shot makes such a nice product its ashame there out of business

 

13.00 to 13.25 is what am guessing, to breaks 12's I think you will need to cut some weight

 

install my k/s this weekend and my bottle warmer just came today (112buck from justin), going to the track tomorrow

 

just went to the track and WOW, it's amazing what a good knock sensor and a bottle warmer can do. I knocked 2 tenths off my 60ft and 7 tenths off my 1/4.
old time 15.076, new time 14.307

 

Congrats tom on your time. If i can't figure my problem out I'm selling the jwt ecu and buying a nitrous kit!

 

Remember I am only fast with spray your fast all the time, I cruise around town and do not beat on the car till I go to the track. Also the biggest reason I went with nitrous cause gas was like 3.50 a gallon when I bought the kit and this way I can run 87gas around town and 93 at the track.

I was looking into the jwt and t/s ecu and found out I would have to run 91-93 all the time I was like hell no. I would have to get a 2nd job just for gas.

Plus like I said, if I want to tear up the street I will just pull out my truck, hell that thing pulls 1.90 60fts peeling and runs on 87gas. But hey if you go with nitrous let me know and I'll help you install the kit

 

I drive 6000 miles a year in the city. Nitrous would be perfect for me. I don't care about the streets. My car is fast enough on the streets. I think with my mods minus the jw ecu and a fixed mevi I should run 13's on a 65-75 shot.

and the gas thing is so true I'll save at the pump too.

I'm gonna do a wet kit with a bottle warmer and pressure gauge(zex) as soon as i selll the jwt ecu.

 

yeah 13's will not be a problem at all, cause with the mevi you will continue to make power till the car shifts, unlike me when the power dips after 5500rpms. You may want to add a rpm switch to turn the nitrous off a 6500rpms so the tranny can shift better, remember my tranny got hot last night in the winter and just think what will happen in the summer

Next on my list is a stillen front lip, 1 step colder plugs, tranny fuild flush with mobile1, tranny cooler, msd rpm box and mazda wheels (poormans udp)

 

I wont be shifting that high without the jw ecu and I sent u a link to the tranny cooler to buy. You won't have those problems anymore.

 

the stock shifts around 6200-6500rpm at wot.. And I like to spray thur the shifts but incase it goes over that I do not want to continue spraying into the rev limiter so I'll use the rpm box to kill the nitrous at 6500rpm for piece of mind

 

oh god I hate high altitude. I have a 2k2 auto and my best run was a 15.8. Yes, I know this is a slow time for a 3.5 auto, but I live in colorado, so we are well over a mile above sea level since the track is in the mountains. and with a 75 shot with no warmer I ran a 14.7 wich was at about 700 psi. now that I have a warmer I ran a 14.3. so in my case a warmer reduced my time by nearly half a second. Now I just need to get my headers installed and get it tuned. then I'll hopefully run a mid-low 13 at my elevation.

 

warmers rock

 

I just bought one and a pressure gauge to get me started. I can't wait to go to the track!

 

how long till the new mevi comes in

 

I'm really not sure, but if I don't find out soon 00vi for me over the holidays. I will probably need your help for this install. I just got the bottle warmer and pressure gauge yesterday,so I'm ready to rock. Maybe will get some more nice weather and you could come down and help me out?? I am also kinda scared a little using it too...

 

Just check for leaks and start with a small shot, a 00vi is alittle harder to install you will have to seal up and tap mounting holes I think but not sure. Will have to read up on it alittle