Successfully running 00 EGR/00 IACV
kthx
Basically, unbolted the spider-web bracket which directs all the fuel/air lines throughout the system and moved it out of the way, and also unbolted the BPT(?) valve from its bracket and moved that below its bracket to keep it somewhat in place. from there it was just installing the IACV and TB back on. Since I was using the idle adjustment screw to hold a somewhat "idle" I completely undid that and the car idled without a problem. I have yet to connect the harness, but I am sure it will work just as sdot mentioned.
i had this setup going for a while only on my PF tb, but then i took it off and plugged it up.
but beware! i've moticed the ecu will learn with time and your idle will slowly raise over time, even after you reset it (more money for gas)
the reason i took it out was:
the iacv started opening up when braking to a complete stop from high speed, it forces more air into the engine, to rev higher, instead of dropping to idle.
for a 5-speed that should be no problem, just press the clutch put it to N and brake. but for anybody automatic, that means a lot more braking power is needed to slow down because the tranny is in gear, and the engine is revving while the brakes are stopping and that can end up costing you dearly at the wrong moment. once the car is stopped the rpms fall down from 1300 to idle.
that's the main reason, because my max is auto.
For the Install you will need to extend the 6 iacv wires with the big connector to plug it into the 00 iacv hole(4 inches should be good allowing some slack, tighten the 2 bolts evenly so it evenly covers the hole) you can unscrew the circular sensors from the iacv(catch the pin inside) zip tie them plugged in. and remove the empty 4th gen iacv.
i suggest you adjust the throttle stopper screw before you plug in the iacv, otherwise you might have a hard time setting the idle right. for an automatic this is the worst part because the rpms fall when the tranny is in gear (i.e. can start to choke at a red light, but idles fine in neutral)
good luck..
let me know how it works out for you..
P.S. Make sure you didn't mix up the open air and the vacuum hoses after removing the metal spider lines, those can be a bit confusing.
but beware! i've moticed the ecu will learn with time and your idle will slowly raise over time, even after you reset it (more money for gas)
the reason i took it out was:
the iacv started opening up when braking to a complete stop from high speed, it forces more air into the engine, to rev higher, instead of dropping to idle.
for a 5-speed that should be no problem, just press the clutch put it to N and brake. but for anybody automatic, that means a lot more braking power is needed to slow down because the tranny is in gear, and the engine is revving while the brakes are stopping and that can end up costing you dearly at the wrong moment. once the car is stopped the rpms fall down from 1300 to idle.
that's the main reason, because my max is auto.
For the Install you will need to extend the 6 iacv wires with the big connector to plug it into the 00 iacv hole(4 inches should be good allowing some slack, tighten the 2 bolts evenly so it evenly covers the hole) you can unscrew the circular sensors from the iacv(catch the pin inside) zip tie them plugged in. and remove the empty 4th gen iacv.
i suggest you adjust the throttle stopper screw before you plug in the iacv, otherwise you might have a hard time setting the idle right. for an automatic this is the worst part because the rpms fall when the tranny is in gear (i.e. can start to choke at a red light, but idles fine in neutral)
good luck..
let me know how it works out for you..
P.S. Make sure you didn't mix up the open air and the vacuum hoses after removing the metal spider lines, those can be a bit confusing.
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BrandonCause
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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Sep 14, 2015 10:41 PM