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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 07:51 AM
  #121  
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Did I break my VI???

Well I decided to go out and try to get this damn RPM switch working again. I started thinking maybe soilnoid is burnt out or something. So I disconneted my RPM switch from my VI and took the ground wire and touched the negative battery post and it moved. So I'm like cool it works. Then I call my bro over to show him and I touch the negative post again and it just clicks no movement at all. Did I break it? Also I tryed using my coil pack tach wire for my RPM switch and its still not working at all. I'm at the point of just hooking it up to a manual switch(if its not broken). Any suggestions?
Old Feb 11, 2008 | 11:39 PM
  #122  
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when i had the manifold off of the car, i ran +12v to the solenoid just out of curiosity, and all it did was click too. I first thought that it was broken, but the more that I thought about it, I figured that in addition to the solenoid, the manifold might need some kind of internal vacuum for the VI to open, so i didn't panic yet. after installation it opened fine on the car w/ revs, so I guess there's prolly some kind of validity to my theory

i wish i could assist more on your RPM switch but i used a a regular Summit switch (cheapest thing i could find). Did you try getting the rpm signal from the ecu wire? If that window switch isn't working out, see if you can borrow a Summit switch from someone and see if you have better luck with that one. Hopefully it's just a wiring/switch issue and there's nothing wrong with your VIAS.

Last edited by CRiME; Feb 11, 2008 at 11:52 PM.
Old Feb 16, 2008 | 04:25 PM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by 2pb
when i had the manifold off of the car, i ran +12v to the solenoid just out of curiosity, and all it did was click too. I first thought that it was broken, but the more that I thought about it, I figured that in addition to the solenoid, the manifold might need some kind of internal vacuum for the VI to open, so i didn't panic yet. after installation it opened fine on the car w/ revs, so I guess there's prolly some kind of validity to my theory

i wish i could assist more on your RPM switch but i used a a regular Summit switch (cheapest thing i could find). Did you try getting the rpm signal from the ecu wire? If that window switch isn't working out, see if you can borrow a Summit switch from someone and see if you have better luck with that one. Hopefully it's just a wiring/switch issue and there's nothing wrong with your VIAS.
Ok thats good to hear. I'll try it again with the car running. Thanks.
Old Mar 1, 2008 | 04:01 PM
  #124  
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I finally hooked my VI up to a switch tonight.I used my N20 switch since I'm not using it at the moment and I put it where my cigarette lighter is since it doesnt work. I tested it out on the road and I can defiantly feel and hear the difference. The only thing about having it hooked up the switch is that once my transmission swifts from 1-2 the revs drop to 4k so i have to turn it off and turn it back on once it hits 4.8k. Its worth it though. I'm going to take it out again to get some more practice with it. Heres some pics.



Old Mar 1, 2008 | 07:28 PM
  #125  
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Hey thats my idea! lol good job glad everything worked out for you. im just going to wait to hook all my vi stuff when i put the eu in(man that sounds like a broken record)
Old Mar 2, 2008 | 04:21 PM
  #126  
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Well first time at the track with the VI sucked bad. Those codes are killing my car. I'm going to try and sort them out before next week so I can go back.

My car feels like I have VTAK when I hit my switch lol.

Last edited by ajcool2; Mar 3, 2008 at 10:18 AM.
Old Mar 4, 2008 | 09:49 AM
  #127  
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I did the swap too and I'm stuck with the map/baro code...Don,t remember what the flashing light code is...
I can't get rid of all the codes to run the car without any. We should advice to 4x4max and tatanko and try to get the solution on getting rid of those codes. I want my car on full potential when spring will come. I think the problem is vacuum related.
Old Mar 4, 2008 | 02:05 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by VQ'ed
I did the swap too and I'm stuck with the map/baro code...Don,t remember what the flashing light code is...
I can't get rid of all the codes to run the car without any. We should advice to 4x4max and tatanko and try to get the solution on getting rid of those codes. I want my car on full potential when spring will come. I think the problem is vacuum related.
I was thinking that also because I have a reducer on one of my hoses but my times on sunday looked the same way they did when my knock sensor was bad. So I'm thinking its a bad sensor somewhere. I reset my ecu and my light hasnt come back on yet but the car still feels the same. So I'm going to wait till it comes back on to see if the same thing comes up.
Old Oct 29, 2008 | 10:38 AM
  #129  
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I'm bumping this to add a note for future swappers. DO NOT USE THE 4th GEN FPR ON THE 5TH GEN RAIL!!! It took me a year to figure that out. I was running consistant 16's with it on and when I switched it it dropped my time more than a second. If you do use it buy yourself an adjustable one from ebay.
Old Jul 2, 2009 | 07:30 PM
  #130  
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did anyone with a 5th gen tb and IACV run coolant from the log through the iacv/tb and back into the log or did everyone just bypass it?
Old Jul 2, 2009 | 08:55 PM
  #131  
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I think most have bypassed it.

I ran into an incident with Dave a while back where the IACV gasket semi failed, and when we started the car, it stalled because a crap load of coolant got sucked into the intake through the failed IACV gasket. We had to pull the plugs and suck the coolant with a shop vac from the UIM. Not fun...
Old Jul 2, 2009 | 09:24 PM
  #132  
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we ran into an incident together? Effin' weird!
Yeah, eff that. Not gonna risk it so I'll just leave it bypassed as it is now.
Thanks...
Old Jul 3, 2009 | 09:02 AM
  #133  
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I had it hooked up for a while. But decided to bypass it for safety and i just didnt want to take off coolant lines everytime i took off the upper IM
Old Jul 3, 2009 | 09:09 AM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by Product_Of_Korea
I had it hooked up for a while. But decided to bypass it for safety and i just didnt want to take off coolant lines everytime i took off the upper IM
I did the exact same thing. Makes life alot easier when taking everything apart.
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