blkmax1

Ok got the car up and running... On start up im getting a blue cloud of smoke then it tapers off. After it warms up it idles around 1k, but after driving for a while it idles between 1500-2000 rpms. Once it even stayed at 3000rpms. I have a check engine light but the only code is an o2 sensor. I also find that when braking it feels like the engine is fighting against stopping the car.

MadMax SE

It is almost guarantee to be your IACV. Does it bounce from 1.5k to 2k rpm?. Standard idle is about 650. I would blip the throttle very lightly and it would rev to about 2k by its self

vqmaximus30

Go off on a limb and inspect the o2 senor that you have the code (look for oil residue, heavy carbon build-up, and damages of course). Also the blue smoke is burnt oil either coming from your piston rings failing or valve covers leaking badly enough to taint the exhaust manifold gasket and seep into your exhaust. Also check transmission fluid. If all checks out good then inspect the idle air control valve by removal (Google search for iacv location if need be). Check for coolant, heavy carbon buil-up, and if you have a volt ohm meter check resistance.

blkmax1

Ok. I will. I see that i might need valve cover gaskets. Do you think cleaning the valve will help or should i just replace. Being that it doesnt throw a code for the iacv doez it mean my ecu is still fine? Im not sure how long the car has had driveability issues. Thanks for all advice

blkmax1

Havent cleaned it yet...<br/>

blkmax1

I Tried to take a video but i cant load it. To show how the rpms jump after even a short drive. If i start it up and let it idle it stays at about 1100 rpms then may jump to 2000 slowly after a while

cornholio

iTrader: (1)

Only way to know is to open it up and check

vqmaximus30

What o2 sensor are you getting the code for? If it is bank 1 sensor 1 or bank 2 sensor 1 it will cause a lot of problems. Also did you inspect the iacv? Based on what you find when you inspect the iacv will determine whether or not cleaning it will help. Does it idle badly on start-up or after it warms up?

blkmax1

It idles bad after it warms up. Im thinking about getting a warpspeed ypipe and replace iacv. Im thinking i might just look for a low mileage motor and call it a day. Replace all components while its out

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

DEK's are solid, stay with the IACV inspection method until then.

blkmax1

Cool definitely... I only want a low mileage motor is because of the blue smoke on start up... rings worn

vqmaximus30

Go to auto zone, advance auto, etc. get them to check the engine code. If one of your o2 sensors is bad especially any sensor 1 location it will cause problems when the car is warmed up. Also inspect the iavc. I agree with you on getting headers as long as the engine isn't screwed, aka leaky rings.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Yeah I forgot about that part.

vqmaximus30

Let us not assume the rings are bad though, for the sake of a diy'er remove the plugs and inspect for burnt oil or fresh oil for that matter. Also inspect the tube that leads to the spark plug hole and make sure the tube seals are not leaking down onto your spark plug.

blkmax1

Your right i didnt check the plugs, hopefully the spark plug tubes are bad which is causing the blue exhaust fumes

MadMax SE

If the tubes aernt the issue then mabye the rings are just sticking and loss their springness.The mess left behind could make the rings sticky. What weight oil do you use? If you have no choicd but to drive it i would use a slightly thicker oil then use 2 stroke tcw3 in the gas to help lube the top end and kill potentialy ring sticking carbon build up. Others have said running tcw3 will burn less oil. how much oil do you burn? Ive read a lot of threads about sticking rings and how it can be helped.

bootsybuns718

I Had same issue happened to be my EGR, Took it apart cleaned it an used some Seafoam, Oddly I didnt get a MiL code for Egr either.