Shopping around for new Front & rear motor mounts for my '95 SE Auto.
On rockauto, some mounts are listed as "Electrical Sensor Wire" and some are not.
How do you know which ones you have??

 

^^^ Does your original/current mount(s) have a wire and an e-connector?

If so, you've got the sensor mounts.

If not, you don't.

 

I believe all of the SE Auto's had them.

 

My '99 SE-L auto does not.

 

I was just a little surprised that a 95 Nissan might even have that tech. Does it work like a knock sensor or will it set off a CEL?

I guess visual inspection will be the way to tell.

 

See post #3. I remember reading it there that all Automatic SE's have the Front electric motor mount. I know that my 98 SE does.

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...hread-yet.html

 

My 98 i30 has them. I hope they never leak.

 

I ran my 99 i30 with the electric mount unplugged. I read where 5th gens can short out and knock out the ECU. Though I don't think 4th gens have the problem.
Anyway, replacing an ECU on a 99 model can be an expensive ordeal, so I didn't want to take any chances with the mount's electric motor causing a short.

When I need to replace the front mount on the 98 model automatic, I will get one for a manual transmission that doesn't use the electric motor.

Here's a video about the electric motor mount and how it softens when the engine is running at a lower RPM.

 

Yeah 4th gens dont have that ecu frying issue. 5th gens have that on a regular occurance lol. But im pretty sure only the 99s + had electric motor mounts. Ive replaced several motor mounts on 4th gen and only seen that on 99s.

 

Thanks for posting that video! Glad I'm not the only one out there curious about these engine mounts.

From what I can tell, I have a wire coming out of my front mount so it looks like it does have it.

It's going to take a week to get an Anchor brand from rockauto for about $40 vs. $388 at the dealer

 

seems like an expensve way for minimal effect

 

Most guys just use the non electric one cause they're to cheap to pay the extra money lol its really up to you.

If you're picky with your car like I am get the original replacement.

 

Is that even possible? Installing a non-electric unit? Won't that set off a code or something?

 

Yes. No codes. I ran my 99 model I30 for years with it disconnected.

 

Only GLE's (which are automatic by default) and Auto SE's have electric motor mounts.

This goes for all years, 95-99.

 

Where are the wires connected to the mount? It appears in the video Craig attached they are located under the bracket. I have a 98 SE AT but never could find wires connected to the front and rear mounts.

I agree. When I searched for a mount on nissanpartsdeal only the 1999 gives a variance of selecting for a mount for an AT or MT. When selecting for a 1998 they only have 1 option for the front mount and 1 for the rear mount.

 

Here's a picture of the electric mount plug from the 99 I30 that I disconnected sometime between 2010 and 2011. That was a long time ago. I must have zip tied the plug and wire to the mount.



Here's the place where it plugs in up by the crossover pipe and cables.



Let me check the 98 model GLE. This has my curiosity going.

 

Here's a picture of the 98 GLE. I see the wire. I would need to take the splash shield off to see if the wire is actually connected.

 

Autozone lists a Duralast for a 1998 model with the sensor. But the picture doesn't show the wire.

http://www.autozone.com/external-eng...65_234544_4222

Advance shows a picture with the wire for a 98 model GLE.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/i...rm=motor+mount

Let's see if the links work. No idea about the quality of either mount.

 

Thanks for the pictures CS. My 1998 SE Auto no doubt doesn't have the electric mount mounts. There are no wires under the front nor rear mounts brackets. I've peaked while under the engine numerous times and never saw a wire. I also don't have that orange connector near the bypass pipes.








I purchased this vehicle new in DEC 1997 so I know the mounts have never been replaced. MY 1998 was an early edition of that year so maybe they switched over to electric mounts later in the year?

 

Look at the bright side JH. You don't have to worry about buying an expensive electric mount.

 

The front mount is still in fair shape but the rear mount it starting to rip. After this post I'm going to search rockauto, advanceauto, and autozone for the low priced front and rear engine mounts I'll be replacing within the next month.

 

Just a hint, you are showing a picture of the passenger side motor mount, not the front motor mount. The passenger side, transmission side and the rear motor mount are not electronic. Check out the one up front, by the radiator fans. If you have a 98 SE Auto, you have the electronic front motor mount.

 

Correct. The front mount on the crossmember bar does have a wire so it's electronically controlled. Learned last night the motor mounts don't follow the engine's direction but the car's direction. I found threads in this forum posted years back that also labelled the mounts on the crossmember bar as the left and right motor mounts.

This weekend I'll take another peak at all 4 mounts before I install the NWP torque link. I'll watch the engine while a friend gives the engine some throttle with brakes applied while in drive.

The front and rear mounts don't give as much support as the chassis mounts on the trans and front engine side. If they did then the VQ30DE and trans would of fallen when our lower RAD support beams rusted away.

 

Great, glad you were able to figure it out.
My experience with the motor mounts has not been bad. I've only had to replace the front mount. I went the junk yard route and found one in excellent shape. In my opinion, the other mounts don't take the punishment the front mount takes (I live in a salt free road system). I knew it was time to replace when I dropped it in gear and got a little clunk, and if you give it gas (with car in gear and foot on brake) you can see the front of the motor move upward. Also, when the transmission changed gears, you also had a little clunk. The used mount cured that. The internal rubber/phenolic was pretty cracked...so a used mount after 18 years isn't so bad. Of course a new one, with electronic connector, is the way to go if you have the budget.
Good luck with your repair.

 

does anybody know the torque specs on the motor mounts? my front is leaking. probably change both front and rear mounts since i'll be taking the crossmember out. thanks.

 

I'm sure the torque specs are in the FSM.

 

found it. page 53 in the EM (Engine Mechanical) Section. thanks.

 

Nice.