Tanman

Now you tell me! If they are prone to leak, why does everyone use them? I had the Blitz BOV, but I saw a lot of boosted Maximas using the Greddy, so I went out and got the Greddy. Hopefully mine won't leak (once it's fixed).

Sprint

iTrader: (10)

Simon says " i have said this 4 times already"

http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?...der=descending

but the purple sure is purdy

Tanman

Whodathunk searching for it would yield answers?? I searched for boost leak several times, as well as BOV leak, Greddy type s, Blitz bov, etc, and I never saw that thread. Weird.

So it's all about the sound. That sux, I got mine partly because of popularity, and partly because the shop only had Greddy flanges. Sigh.

Sprint

iTrader: (10)

do you want to slap me in the back of the head?

sx7r told me it was prone to leak before i bought it from him.. he gave me 2 weeks notice and i still bought it ******slap*

but the purple sure s purdy

AntGVR4

HKS SS BOV owns you.
Pull type, no leaks.
That or a Tial BOV are the only ones I would run on my car.
I can tell you my HKS SS held 20lbs no problems
Tial held 30lbs no problems.

Ant

Tanman

Will either of those work with a Greddy flange? Cause the flange has been welded and painted, and I'd rather not have to cut it off and weld a new one on. Besides, we're talking 10 lbs boost max, so a cheaper one should work ok?

Tanman

So is this just your BOV that is prone to leak or Greddy's in general. Before you answer that, how many Greddy owners do you know who have had this problem?

I always thought the purple was kind of fruity. I prefer the black one.

Sprint

iTrader: (10)

mine hasn't leaked yet

but cumalot and kev's had

its a manufactuer known problem though..

Sprint

iTrader: (10)

aw man.. who moved this.. i purposesly didn't want to post in this forum

Tanman

IT HAS BEGUN... MORTAAAAL KOMBAAAAAT!!!!!

I guess the new regime is making its presence felt. Now no one will see my thread .

maxxboost00

I had the same problem u guys did and i even posted some questions up to see how I can fix it but nothing was able to stop the car from stalling...SO, here's what I did! I made it into a bypass valve again! I used the same hose that came with the bosch bypass valve and connected it to my blitz SS BOV. I'm telling u, it is running perfect now. The blow off sound is even louder now than how it was without the connected hose. U can definitely hear the air blowing out but instead of the air going into the atmosphere, it goes right backl into the intake, which is how it is supposed to be in the first place. U guys should try it out. I'll try to post up some pics to show u guys.

~AC

Tanman

I was wondering where you disappeared to. So if the stalling occurs when you're not boosting, then that means you are releasing air through the BOV when you're not supposed to be. That means either the flange weld is leaking, the BOV\flange seal is leaking, or the BOV itself is leaking. The only time the BOV should be open and releasing air is when you boost, then let off the throttle, then the air has no where to go and has to go out through the BOV. Re-routing the air back to the intake pipe is a good idea, except in my case, the shop cut off the nub where the Bosch valve connects to the intake pipe. They welded a steel patch over the hole. So that means I'll have to find a way to make the BOV work correctly.

maxxboost00

I'm sorry to hear that they plugged that hole. It would really work out if u still had that hole to connect the BOV to. Well, I guess I don't know what to tell u but good luck. If u end up fixing it, let me know...let all of us know how u did it.

~AC

PCGuRu2K

iTrader: (34)

So you basically didn't even weld the Blitz ss onto the piping? Just replaced the Bosch with the blitz, plug back the tubes? So it's bsically hanging in the same position as the bosch?

Tanman

I think on his setup, the BOV is mounted to the charge pipe, then he ran connected the rubber hose from the BOV outlet to the intake pipe (stock location where the Bosch valve routes air back into the intake pipe). I doubt he dangled the BOV like the Bosch valve (between two pieces of rubber tube).

maxxboost00

Tanman is correct. I basically welded the flange of my blitz BOV on the charge pipe ( the same spot where the bosch bypass valve was place)and just screwed on my blitz BOV onto that flange. It's pretty simple. Once that was done, I used the same hose that was connecting the bosch valve to the intake pipe, and I connected it to my blitz BOV. I guess u can call it a bypass BOV. If u have any more ?'s let me know.

~AC

PCGuRu2K

iTrader: (34)

I didn't do the bypass BOV on mines. What I did was connect the flange to the bov, then got a 1.25" diameter hose. Connected that end to the flange and other end to the sc pipe. Connected the vacumn line. And I plugged the other hole that the bosch was re-circulating back to. I had a problem when I first started the car it would stall when I rev'd it. But I fixed the problem by just adjusting the the screw. It's working fine now and the air just releases to the atmosphere now..

Tanman

Wow, nice way to bypass having to weld the flange to the SC. That helps if you want to sell the SC stock as well. Wish I had thought of that. Oh well, I'm still waiting to get my BOV re-tapped so I can use the SC again. Hopefully I can get it to work with a new screw and threads. If not, I'm sawing off my Greddy flange, buying a Blitz flange, then I'll use a piece of hose and connect it like you have it, so I don't have to pay to have the Blitz flange welded on.

Engloid

I think Kev is right..you have to tighten the screw FIRST, as the nut only locks down the screw to keep it from moving on it's own.

Also, the bov MUST be put between the turbo (or supercharger) and throttle body. The vac hose is best characterized as a boost hose...cause that's where it needs to be hooked up to...some place AFTER the throttle body. That way when boosting, it sees boost and helps to keep the valve shut. When shifting you will have vacuum after the throttle body and the bov will see vacuum which will help to open the bov.

SHould you decide to get another bov, I'll buy that one as it is if the price is right... email me if you want to sell it.

Tanman

Cool, wish I had known this before I ruined it. Luckily, the local shop (Lightspeed in Houston), re-tapped the top and used a larger screw. They just did it at the shop (I'm here waiting), so I haven't had a chance to test it yet, but it looks good.

20thdriven

iTrader: (2)

how much did they charge for retapping? do any of you have any idea what happens if you run without either screw in place? is it just like having it at a really loose setting or does it not function properly. I cannot set my BOV loose enough to remain open at idle.

Tanman

$40 for the re-tap, but that's off a bit because they charged less for the BOV install than they normally would. When you say "either screw", there's only one screw you should be adjusting, the one on top of the BOV. You're right, if the screw is missing, then it's just like running the BOV really loose and will release too much air and the car will stall. What do you mean by "I cannot set my BOV loose enough to remain open at idle"? I thought the BOV should remain closed at all times unless it's releasing excess boost?