I believe these are the instructions someone was asking for earlier

try these first youll need adobe acrobat

http://www.boostedmaximas.com/howto/scinstall.html

http://images.cardomain.com/installs...27_55_full.jpg

http://images.cardomain.com/installs...27_56_full.jpg

http://images.cardomain.com/installs...27_57_full.jpg

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http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...7_160_full.jpg

http://images.cardomain.com/installs...27_61_full.jpg

and also here is Potatoe heads write up for more information just pick and choose.

http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...=181995&page=4

and these are more pics

http://images.cardomain.com/installs...27_38_full.jpg

http://images.cardomain.com/installs...27_28_full.jpg

And if your installing a Blitz BOV it is a good idea to cut a piece of the allen wrench and use a adjustable wrench to tighten the rear allen bolt. Do not tighten one and then install the other. Thread both of them at the same time. Just my .02 cents. Just what ever you do dont strip the allen bolts or you will leak boost if not properly tighten and also damage the blue gasket that goes under the BOV due to the leak.

http://images.cardomain.com/installs...27_27_full.jpg

http://images.cardomain.com/installs...27_26_full.jpg

Installation tip when installing the blower again. Do not sit the blower all the way into the timing chain cover, while is at a 45 degree angle slightly tilted forward tighten the oil return line first then just thread all the bolts back in "Do not tighten any until you have threaded all the bolts into the plate" the play will be needed when installing the alternator bolt and the flat allen bolt on the bottom of the plate. After threading all of bolts into the plate proceed to tighten all of them. The turning of the alternator bolt, you can use a gear wrench and that bolt will be done in mins. Use thread lock and do not over tighten the bolts into the timing chain cover is made out of alloy so keep that in mind.

 

now that you're a moderator and all, you have the power to make this a stickie

 

http://www.boostedmaximas.com/howto/scinstall.html

here is the instruction for 2k - 2k1.

Credit : Y2KevSE and Russ

 

I have converted ptatohed's write-up to .pdf and am now hosting it:

http://www.ericj.org/maxima/doc/scifd.pdf

 

Picture was deleted as long as Car Domain is up heres the link



http://images.cardomain.com/member_i...7_131_full.jpg

 

I pulled my metal pullies off and I got too clean happy and sprayed brake cleaner on them. Not realizing what I had done I had to go to NAPA and buy some new bearings because I just wiped off all the grease from inside the bearings. The ASP pulleys are also coated with some black chemical so just wipe them off with a rag and do not spray any chemicals on the pulleys themselves.

you can buy the ASP pulleys from this website and call the 800 number and speak to a gentleman by the name of Lee
http://www.aspracing.com/frame.htm

the pulleys cost $65 a piece $130 shipped. Great pulley for the money they are also made of steel.

Order Toll-Free
1 877 928 8678

 

Go to NAPA to get the copper plugs, you can get them as cheap as $1.20 a piece and up to $1.99 a piece change them out every 20k.

One step colder copper plugs:

NGK # BKR6E-11
Nissan # 22401 - 50Y06

two step colder
NGK # BKR7E-11

The -11 part of the NGK number is multiplied by .004" to get the gap size for an engine producing stock hp. This would make the stock gap 0.044". Most people with SC's and such are running 0.034" - 0.038" in order to further reduce tendency for detonation.

 

that link Doesnt work dude.