BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

Lately I've been driving ever so slow in my car because of the fear of blowing my motor and putting myself even more in debt with replacing it. Am I just paranoid? Ok, here's a list of what I have done to the max and you guys tell me if I'm anywhere near blowing my motor so I can gain my confidence back when I do boost.

-1997 GLE
-131K mile original motor w/ WSP Y-pipe, RT High Flow Cat, Greddy SP Cat-Back
-Nissan OEM Spark plugs installed at 120K miles
-SCV2 w/ 3.33" pulley, Greddy Type-S BOV installed at 127K miles
-switched to mobil1 synthetic oil and mobil1 filter at 127K miles
-installed Permacool oil cooler at 127K miles
-Maximum Tuning Stage 2 VB installed at 127K miles (not that it matters on the engine, or does it?)
-used Penzoil Import Fuel Injector Cleaner
-auto tranny rebuild at 128K miles (not that it matters on the engine, or does it?)
-changed oil & filter recently at 130K miles

Anything that has been upgraded has been listed, so I still have OEM sparks plugs, not 1-step colder plugs, original injectors and fuel pump.


Ok, after about 100 miles from the SC install, I got the 0702 code and I resetted it and used some fuel injector cleaner and it never came back. Last Friday I got only the 0701 code which said multiple cylinder misfire, I don't know how that happened, I wasn't even boosting all day, but I realized that the only thing that hasn't been up to date was changing the fuel filter since the last time I did that was at 120K miles, do I really need to go to 1-step colder plugs with my setup? I've driven about another 100 miles and the code hasn't came back and I'm planning on changing the fuel filter today anyway to prevent the code. I consistently see on my Autometer Phantom Boost gauge 9-10 psi at redline in 3rd gear with the OD off. My Autometer Phantom electrical fuel pressure gauge shows almost 80psi at 9-10psi. Am I no where near blowing my motor? What does it take to blow it? Someone says overrevving would do it, but I have an auto, does that matter? Has anyone blown their motor with this many miles? Its not like I abuse my motor by going in redline all the time, I just need to know the facts to keep from blowing the motor and putting my self in superdebt. If anyone knows, feel fredd to shed some light on the topic. Thanks.

-Ben

Craig Mack

Your getting 80psi at full boost!?! What disc are you running? That is too rich. Your very safe though. I am running the 3.33" with the 6-1 disc and hit 65psi at WOT which MardiGrasMax says is very good. If your using the 12:1 disc your losing A LOT of power, and even if your using the 8:1 your still losing power. I've only got about half the miles on my car then you, but you should still be perfectly safe. Your fuel psi is too high, but that it's alot safer then having too little psi.

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

Well, I have the disc that came with the V2, I truly don't know what it is, 6:1? Maybe you could tell me from the picture Engine Bay. Delio gave Vortech's little fuel pressure formula and he says:

"Fuel pressure at idle is usually between 30-35 PSI, outside temp plays a role in this as well, when it gets warm out expect that number to be closer to 35 PSI

At full boost the FP will follow Vortechs formula

FMU Disc ratio * PSI of boost + 1/2 of base fuel pressure. (Keep in mind Base FP on a 4th gen is 34PSI)

So let's say you have a maxima with a 6:1 FMU disc, and 10 PSI of boost, the equation would look like this:

6*10+17 = 77PSI

So at 10 PSI of boost you should be seeing ~ 77psi of FP. This will vary a little bit from guage to guage."

I truly saw right about 77psi at 9-10psi boost. So, I guess I'm running a little rich eh? So the only way to find out exactly is to get which gauge, air/fuel? Not that I'm gonna go out right now and get boost happy, your saying I'm still safe from blowing my motor? What do I need to have to not be safe?

BlackCat

iTrader: (6)

Do you hear any knocking when accelerating? I was when I was on stock plugs and the stock 3.60" pulley. I went to one-step colder NGK platniums and that got rid of it. I checked my stock plugs and the tips were still in good condition.

Btw, have you checked the condition of your plugs yet?

PCGuRu2K

iTrader: (34)

You should be fine.. If anything your tranny will definitely go first..

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

I don't hear any knocking when accelerating, or maybe I need to listen closer to the engine, I know I don't feel any hesitation though, maybe those are 2 different things. I'll listen again in a few miuntes. No, I haven't actually check the plugs yet, and I think I'll do that in a few minutes as well, what should I look out for knowing they are only 11K miles old? Does being SC'ed shorten the life of the plugs? If anything I think I'll go to the 1-step-colder plugs but not anytime soon if its not necessary, I just wasn't sure if I would lose power with the 1-steps from stories that I've heard about people going back to the originals. I'll let you guys know or I'll take a pic of the tip of the plugs and post it.

Jer

iTrader: (2)

aaargh!!! colder plugs man!

Go for one step colder - set a code too with my stupid Nissan platinum OEM'ers, changed to 1 step colder (copper) and it ran better, and the code was gone!

I just wish my boost didn't stop at 8psi with my 3.33" I think my V2 blower is handicapped.

Jer

iTrader: (2)

aaargh!!! colder plugs man!

Go for one step colder - I set a code too with my stupid Nissan platinum OEM'ers, changed to 1 step colder (copper) and it ran better, and the code was gone!

I just wish my boost didn't stop at 8psi with my 3.33" I think my V2 blower is handicapped.

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

That's a purty picture, but you can't tell what disk is in the FMU from looking at it from the outside. You have to take the top cover of the FMU off (very easy to do, just don't overtighten the little Allen bolts) and measure the diameter of the flat, aluminum disk inside. If it is 1.87" diameter, then the disk is a 6:1. The larger the diameter, the higher the ratio:

4:1 = 1.59"
6:1 = 1.85"
8:1 = 2.22"
10:1 = 2.47"

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

go up to one step colder spark plugs you ll lose a bit on the bottom will be comfortable boosting and youll get all the power back on top.

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

I didn't get the chance to check my plugs, since I totally forgot that I had to unbolt my BOV to get to the front 3. I figured if I'm gonna unbolt that thing I might as well replace them all at the same time. I lost the part number and I never knew if they were already plug and play, or do I have to gap them? I never gapped a plug before, but if I have to I'm pretty sure you guys can help me do that.

turbomax97

iTrader: (6)

It's really easy to gap plugs. Go to Autozone or something and get a spark plug gapper for 99 cents..

It looks like a coin, with a groove on the outside that gets thicker and thicker.. you slide the spark plug over the groove till the gap is the correct size. Just ask one of the guys to show you how to do it

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

Ok, I just got home from cruising with a few cars and I noticed I was hitting the rev limiter a few times, like 3 times total for the night, how bad was this on the engine?

turbomax97

iTrader: (6)

i had the same problem.... and once in a while have it still. It's all about your tires, get better tires, i was on 205/65/15 before, and spun 2nd till fuel cutoff, and it wouldnt shift till i let off.

Now I'm on 235/40/18 ZR tires, and I STILL occasionally bang on the limiter, but only say 10% as much as I used to.

BippuBenji

iTrader: (4)

Yea, I was racing with my 18's, same tire size as yours, and I would hit it sometimes when we're doing a rolling start and it would go back to 1st and hit the limter for like a sec and I have to let off. 9 out of 10 times it shifts perfectly. I'm just wondering how bad this is?