I'm wondering if its possible to run a belt just to the alternater to the crank pulley, and bypass the blower while I have it off.Also, what else, if anything needs to be done to run the car safely without the blower on (fuel, timing, etc.)

(if its possible, does anyone know the belt size for a 96 max., to bypass the blower, and just go straight to the alt.)

thanx
jared

 

yes, I started a thread on this in this forum. I think the title is "say what if your belt shredded in the middle of the desert" I started because I planned to have a long trip and if the belt shredded, I can just do a quick repair instead of taking off the entire blower....just to get the alternator to run..instead of running on battery.

you need a blet that's slightly longer than the stock belt. about 1 inch or 2. (because the tensioner pulley is smaller than the stock one)

dun worry about the fuel because the FMU will not be activated if boost is not present.

 

If you have a smaller tensioner pully, wouldn't it require a shorter belt?

 

This is a V2 problem only, since the V1 kit uses the original tensioner pulley.

But with the V2 kit, does the tensioner not provide enough adjustibility to use the stock belt?

 

you are right. you need shorter belt.


Stephen : I dunno if the tensioner adjuster is able to lower another inch. The circumference of the stillen pulley seems to be about 1 inch shorter than the stock. (that was my guesstimate)

Have you guys think about what if the blower has to be taken out?
say if one day I need to send my blower back to vortech for rebuild, I will probably leave the plate back onto the car without the blower. The idler pulley has to go away and I have to block both the metal oil hose and oil return.

routing the intake will be a problem. I have custom CAI and I wonder how am I going to route it to the charger pipe.

 

I've been thinking about this too...

I don't see why the idler would have to come off...I can't imagine that it would be in the way.

The tension pully is a good 1-1.5" less in diameter than the stock. I still think it would work. If not, just throw the stock tension pully back on there. Should fit the stillen bracket without major problems.

Intake should be easy...just slap a filter on the end of the SC piping (pretty much where the SC would be). The stock SC one may work for that.

 

1-1.5 less in diameter? then the circumference is much shorter than that. about 3 - 4.5 inches then.

Quote:

Intake should be easy...just slap a filter on the end of the SC piping (pretty much where the SC would be). The stock SC one may work for that.

that's for 4th gen though, all the sensors are on the charger pipe,. 5th gen the MAF stays with intake pipe. So either I can sticker the MAF/filter straight to the charger pipe. or I have to use another intake housing to route it to the pipe.

 

Why are you worried about the circumference? As long as the pully can tension the belt, the speed at which its spinning shouldn't matter.

Oh yeah. I forgot they were different.

 

yea...that's right. since the belt does not need to contact the pulley completely, what did I throw circumference into this. Man! what;s wrong with me today.

 

so say you do have to take the blower out, how do you plan on taking off the blower from the mounting plate without removing the entire piece from the car?

 

You'd have to take the whole thing out, take the blower off the plate, and re-install the plate.

The only reason I can see to do this is if you lost the original hardware for the timing case, or you're worried about the alternator going somewhere without being attached to the plate.

 

well.........enough of guessing and talking. I have decided to send blower back to vortech to get rebuilt. This is what is required to run a belt to alt. and AC.

1. remove blower and bracket
2. replaced tensioner pulley with oem pulley
3. bought a 6 rib belt (44.5 inches 1130 millimeters)
4. run braided oil line into rubber return hose, and tighten clamp.
5. everything fits perfect

*for a V2 kit

 

Did you need to replace the tensioner pully? Why? Did you have to replace the tension pully assembly?

 

well.......upon taking the blower off, ( and one of the reasons i was taking it off), was because i melted the tensioner pulley and bearings....so i needed something to last while the new pulleys came and the blower was getting rebuilt. I didn't not have to replace the pulley assembly, there wasn't much adjustment, but the oem PULLEY does fit with the 44.5 inche belt.

 

Interesting. So it may work with the tension pully for the SC, but you didn't get to try?

 

thats correct.........not sure what size belt would be needed though with s/c tensioner pulley

 

This is sort of related to my current problem. I'm having the SC removed, but it looks like I'm missing stock parts. The stock tensioner pulley seems to be missing a core spacer, so it won't fit correctly on the spindle. The shop working on my car is using the polyurethane SC idler pulley in place of the stock tensioner pulley. Can you see any problems with this? Since running the accessories isn't anywhere near as brutal as running the SC, the polyurethane pulley should be ok, right?

 

yeah.........should work fine. To get the belt size, put the pulley in the middle of the tensioner bracket, run a string where the belt should go, measure it, then go get a belt thats that size. Put it on......tighten tensioner, and to save gas, remove the power wire from the external fuel pump (depending on how you have it wired up)