View Poll Results: Which kit is better and why?
Nigel's
32
47.06%
Hal's
36
52.94%
Voters: 68. You may not vote on this poll
Which turbo "kit" is better?
#45
Originally posted by IceY2K1
Is the oil in the pan pressurized once the engine is running?
Is the oil in the pan pressurized once the engine is running?
Originally posted by Jeff92se
My conclusion(after reading your aquarium thing) is even if the water is recir'd, the drain tube's pressure would still have to overcome the pressure in the pan. I don't think the recir'd oil's pressure is high enough to overcome the existing level oil pan pressure level. So a bad idea.
My conclusion(after reading your aquarium thing) is even if the water is recir'd, the drain tube's pressure would still have to overcome the pressure in the pan. I don't think the recir'd oil's pressure is high enough to overcome the existing level oil pan pressure level. So a bad idea.
Originally posted by johnvt1111
why don't u guys just use aim, your the only ones talking in this thread
why don't u guys just use aim, your the only ones talking in this thread
#46
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I'll show you free gage!
Just kidding! It's in the mail ... just like the check!
Just kidding! It's in the mail ... just like the check!
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
Exact example I gave when someone asked about tapping location a while back...
Where's my free gauge?
Exact example I gave when someone asked about tapping location a while back...
Where's my free gauge?
#47
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Still leaking on the intake? Bring it by I'll take a look. I told you about this before the turbo was installed ... boost doesn't help! Any werd on the BBQ? Did I miss out?
Originally posted by dafro
Yes im reading too, im learning new stuff every day .
oooo can i get my free stuff too. just kidn nigel, you and pfi have really hooked me up.
Ryan
Yes im reading too, im learning new stuff every day .
oooo can i get my free stuff too. just kidn nigel, you and pfi have really hooked me up.
Ryan
#50
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Upper oil pan ... when I build my motor, I will probably change that since the upper oil pan is off, I might as well do it.
Originally posted by MAXIN
so Nigel, are you still tapped into the valve cover or now in the upper oil pan?
just keep it from johnvt... not the rest of us
so Nigel, are you still tapped into the valve cover or now in the upper oil pan?
just keep it from johnvt... not the rest of us
#51
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by nismo2020
nigels cause the workmanship looks cleaner/better. plus you get a new turbo. ill be buying a kit very soon.
nigels cause the workmanship looks cleaner/better. plus you get a new turbo. ill be buying a kit very soon.
thats why I gots Nigels kit, you get a brand new Turbo and is Dyno proven get it straght dog I will smoking me some Vettes in the future as soon as I get my kit, I will show you my Dyno slips and my "New Turbo"
from what I heard that dude Hal has moved to my side of town Cali, I may race him
#52
WHAT?!?!
Originally posted by turbo97SE
I am sure that a war will start because of this but ...
4th gen TURBO KIT NEW PRICING
Base Kit - non-intercooled from $3300
I/C Kit - with Spearco intercooler and piping $3790
1. Awesome Torque and Power (for always on boost)
2. Completely customizable (any choice of turbo as optional upgrades or downgrades) depending on your application.
- LIFETIME WARANTY on all TURBONETICS turbos
3. Designed, built and backed by reputable Performance shop
4. HIGHEST DYNO PROVEN kit with multiple chargers.
5. No relocation of fans
6. Keep your fogs
7. Have nice cold air going through your turbo
8. Now no cutting of front bumper section is required if you select smaller I/C, but still need to cut holes for piping
9. Easily upgradeable from Non-I/C to I/C at any time without removing already installed kit.
10. Not limited to one type of blower. Can easily swap turbos by changing 2 short sections of pipe and some couplers.
11. "bolt-on" kit. This is not for the novice mechanic! I have to admit you should not do this unless you are VERY familiar with the car and fuel/oil system. I personally do not think it is very difficult, but from feedback from others, it is not easy.
1. Brand New T4/TO4E turbo (upgrades available) LIFETIME WARANTY for TURBONETICS chargers
2. TIAL 38mm external wastegate NOW STANDARD vs 35 mm Delagate (This JUST happened in the last two days)
3. exhaust pipes (All pipes are included now where the y-pipe was not before - Mandrel and non-mandrel available) For Mandrel bent, if you wish to lose some clearance, they can be ALL Mandrel bent.
4. Oil feed line
5. Oil dump/ return. You have the CHOICE (YES a CHOICE) of tapping valve cover OR upper oil pan, IT IS UP TO YOU! Tapping lower oil pan is a BAD idea it is perhaps the same or worse than tapping valve cover.
6. exhaust flanges to and from turbo
7. fuel pressure regulator (Any Vortech or Cartech now available for upgrade)
8. Clamps, connectors etc.
9. Spearco intercooler (optional for non-I/C)
10. Battery Relocation Kit
11. Cone Filter
12. HKS SSQBOV (now standard)
13. Can negotiate one free item (boost gauge, turbo timer) [NEW]
NOTE: Shipping is included to 48 States
Oh and instructions are waaaay better than they used to be (vs non-existent for Kev )
Biased or not, these are the facts!
I am sure that a war will start because of this but ...
4th gen TURBO KIT NEW PRICING
Base Kit - non-intercooled from $3300
I/C Kit - with Spearco intercooler and piping $3790
1. Awesome Torque and Power (for always on boost)
2. Completely customizable (any choice of turbo as optional upgrades or downgrades) depending on your application.
- LIFETIME WARANTY on all TURBONETICS turbos
3. Designed, built and backed by reputable Performance shop
4. HIGHEST DYNO PROVEN kit with multiple chargers.
5. No relocation of fans
6. Keep your fogs
7. Have nice cold air going through your turbo
8. Now no cutting of front bumper section is required if you select smaller I/C, but still need to cut holes for piping
9. Easily upgradeable from Non-I/C to I/C at any time without removing already installed kit.
10. Not limited to one type of blower. Can easily swap turbos by changing 2 short sections of pipe and some couplers.
11. "bolt-on" kit. This is not for the novice mechanic! I have to admit you should not do this unless you are VERY familiar with the car and fuel/oil system. I personally do not think it is very difficult, but from feedback from others, it is not easy.
1. Brand New T4/TO4E turbo (upgrades available) LIFETIME WARANTY for TURBONETICS chargers
2. TIAL 38mm external wastegate NOW STANDARD vs 35 mm Delagate (This JUST happened in the last two days)
3. exhaust pipes (All pipes are included now where the y-pipe was not before - Mandrel and non-mandrel available) For Mandrel bent, if you wish to lose some clearance, they can be ALL Mandrel bent.
4. Oil feed line
5. Oil dump/ return. You have the CHOICE (YES a CHOICE) of tapping valve cover OR upper oil pan, IT IS UP TO YOU! Tapping lower oil pan is a BAD idea it is perhaps the same or worse than tapping valve cover.
6. exhaust flanges to and from turbo
7. fuel pressure regulator (Any Vortech or Cartech now available for upgrade)
8. Clamps, connectors etc.
9. Spearco intercooler (optional for non-I/C)
10. Battery Relocation Kit
11. Cone Filter
12. HKS SSQBOV (now standard)
13. Can negotiate one free item (boost gauge, turbo timer) [NEW]
NOTE: Shipping is included to 48 States
Oh and instructions are waaaay better than they used to be (vs non-existent for Kev )
Biased or not, these are the facts!
You are breaking my heart Nig... Now you offer this new stuff?!?!? We have to talk man. I am happy w/my new kit but take this as constuctive criticism. I know you are a good guy so dont take this personal...When you list the list of products that come in the PFI kit like you do, it seems very impressive and it is; but I also think it gives people the idea that this is a bolt on kit when they read it. Its definately not a bolt on kit. Unless the person who purchases the kit from you guys is a pretty good mechanic that knows about installing turbos, they will need PROFESSIONAL installation. To me, bolt on means that everything in the kit was pre-fitted and can be installed w/few problems or major adjustments to be made. The PFI kit offers some great stuff but on top of the $3800 for the kit, the average guy who buys this will have to pay alot for install because some major adjustments WILL have to be made.... the oil pan issue has to be addressed and there are even some piping issues where welding may be needed. The measurements on the piping are not perfect yet. Relocation of sensors has to be addressed more clearly and the bottom flange of the wastegate "should" be covered although the kit can be run w/out it. Maybe even a catback should be considered. Granted most of the kit is bolt on but the install is far from straight forward. Like mentioned before, the instructions need to be refined and i dont think you should call this a bolt on kit... in fact which I see you've done in this post, you should make it a point to tell people they will need professional install so they know what they are getting into if they buy it. This is a big investment. Being one of the first to have your kit, I guess having to deal w/some of these issues comes w/the territory. I had to take a hit. However, I'd like to help you guys refine the maufacturing and install instruction on this kit so things go smooth for future buyers. I have some pics for you. I've made doubles and I'll mail them to you in CO to help out. All in all though the kit is impressive and deserves to be streamlined. If we get it right you have a chance to create a great market.
Deac
#55
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by Roadbeef
What are you saying that Hals kit is chopped up and you get a used turbo?
thats why I gots Nigels kit, you get a brand new Turbo and is Dyno proven get it straght dog I will smoking me some Vettes in the future as soon as I get my kit, I will show you my Dyno slips and my "New Turbo"
from what I heard that dude Hal has moved to my side of town Cali, I may race him
What are you saying that Hals kit is chopped up and you get a used turbo?
thats why I gots Nigels kit, you get a brand new Turbo and is Dyno proven get it straght dog I will smoking me some Vettes in the future as soon as I get my kit, I will show you my Dyno slips and my "New Turbo"
from what I heard that dude Hal has moved to my side of town Cali, I may race him
#56
There has been plenty of misinformation on this post, but it has been entertaining and I think we all have learned from it..
check out new kit setup and pricing...
NEW KIT SETUP/PRICE LINK
keeping in mind the kit can be customized to however you like considering free fabrication + install.
check out new kit setup and pricing...
NEW KIT SETUP/PRICE LINK
keeping in mind the kit can be customized to however you like considering free fabrication + install.
#57
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Re: WHAT?!?!
Hi Deac
Not sure if you read this ...
11. "bolt-on" kit. This is not for the novice mechanic! I have to admit you should not do this unless you are VERY familiar with the car and fuel/oil system. I personally do not think it is very difficult, but from feedback from others, it is not easy. .."
I have conceeded the fact that this is not simple bolt on above. That's why it is in quotation marks ... perhaps this was not clear. But if you look at many kits offered by other reputable companies such as Greddy for Hondas as one example, they are also labeled as "bolt-on" kits even though they need to tap an oil pan ... easier on Hondas but still needs to be done. As far as needing a pro install ... well, two people have installed it themselves, granted, they are real gearheads, Kev being one, the other doesn't wish to be mentioned but they were not pros.
Admittedly, one of the pipes was a definite mistake ... shipped a 95-99 instead of a 2000 TB pipe. There really should be no need to do ANY welding at all. If any welding was required, it would have been either an installation error OR wrong part was sent. Actually, thinking about it, two of the pipes are very similar and it's possible that these were swapped. Need to check your pics.
I know all of you have had issues, espcially people like Kev/Sprint where none of the piping fit at all! Joaquink had some major issues also. Definitely fewer with your kit than all the others (not an excuse). Also in talking to Phil, looks like you didn't want to cut any of your bumper sections which could also be a reason why some of the piping didn't fit. The kit was designed to go through the front sections of the car. All the guys that have tried the kit have been great to work with and have worked through many issues and fed back to make a better kit. Thanks to all!
As far as deals go, I try to get the deals better and better with each kit sold, we find efficiencies for example getting rid of a connector or something, if we deem it unnecessary, or find a cheaper source for parts and so try to pass savings on. For example, when we started this, Tial was more expensive than Deltagate, PFI decided to buy into the business of becoming a higher volume Tial distributor at a higher risk to their business also since they need to move a certain amount every month, but still passed the savings on. Tial all of a sudden decided to switch to 38mm, still the pricing is the same, but people will feel bitter, I am sure! We're constantly trying to think of stuff to reduce the cost of the kit to make it more affordable for maxima owners.
turbo97se
Not sure if you read this ...
11. "bolt-on" kit. This is not for the novice mechanic! I have to admit you should not do this unless you are VERY familiar with the car and fuel/oil system. I personally do not think it is very difficult, but from feedback from others, it is not easy. .."
I have conceeded the fact that this is not simple bolt on above. That's why it is in quotation marks ... perhaps this was not clear. But if you look at many kits offered by other reputable companies such as Greddy for Hondas as one example, they are also labeled as "bolt-on" kits even though they need to tap an oil pan ... easier on Hondas but still needs to be done. As far as needing a pro install ... well, two people have installed it themselves, granted, they are real gearheads, Kev being one, the other doesn't wish to be mentioned but they were not pros.
Admittedly, one of the pipes was a definite mistake ... shipped a 95-99 instead of a 2000 TB pipe. There really should be no need to do ANY welding at all. If any welding was required, it would have been either an installation error OR wrong part was sent. Actually, thinking about it, two of the pipes are very similar and it's possible that these were swapped. Need to check your pics.
I know all of you have had issues, espcially people like Kev/Sprint where none of the piping fit at all! Joaquink had some major issues also. Definitely fewer with your kit than all the others (not an excuse). Also in talking to Phil, looks like you didn't want to cut any of your bumper sections which could also be a reason why some of the piping didn't fit. The kit was designed to go through the front sections of the car. All the guys that have tried the kit have been great to work with and have worked through many issues and fed back to make a better kit. Thanks to all!
As far as deals go, I try to get the deals better and better with each kit sold, we find efficiencies for example getting rid of a connector or something, if we deem it unnecessary, or find a cheaper source for parts and so try to pass savings on. For example, when we started this, Tial was more expensive than Deltagate, PFI decided to buy into the business of becoming a higher volume Tial distributor at a higher risk to their business also since they need to move a certain amount every month, but still passed the savings on. Tial all of a sudden decided to switch to 38mm, still the pricing is the same, but people will feel bitter, I am sure! We're constantly trying to think of stuff to reduce the cost of the kit to make it more affordable for maxima owners.
turbo97se
Originally posted by Deac
... I also think it gives people the idea that this is a bolt on kit when they read it. Its definately not a bolt on kit. Unless the person who purchases the kit from you guys is a pretty good mechanic that knows about installing turbos, they will need PROFESSIONAL installation. To me, bolt on means that everything in the kit was pre-fitted and can be installed w/few problems or major adjustments to be made. The PFI kit offers some great stuff but on top of the $3800 for the kit, the average guy who buys this will have to pay alot for install because some major adjustments WILL have to be made.... the oil pan issue has to be addressed and there are even some piping issues where welding may be needed. The measurements on the piping are not perfect yet. Relocation of sensors has to be addressed more clearly and the bottom flange of the wastegate "should" be covered although the kit can be run w/out it. Maybe even a catback should be considered. Granted most of the kit is bolt on but the install is far from straight forward. Like mentioned before, the instructions need to be refined and i dont think you should call this a bolt on kit... in fact which I see you've done in this post, you should make it a point to tell people they will need professional install so they know what they are getting into if they buy it. This is a big investment. Being one of the first to have your kit, I guess having to deal w/some of these issues comes w/the territory. I had to take a hit. However, I'd like to help you guys refine the maufacturing and install instruction on this kit so things go smooth for future buyers. I have some pics for you. I've made doubles and I'll mail them to you in CO to help out. All in all though the kit is impressive and deserves to be streamlined. If we get it right you have a chance to create a great market.
Deac
... I also think it gives people the idea that this is a bolt on kit when they read it. Its definately not a bolt on kit. Unless the person who purchases the kit from you guys is a pretty good mechanic that knows about installing turbos, they will need PROFESSIONAL installation. To me, bolt on means that everything in the kit was pre-fitted and can be installed w/few problems or major adjustments to be made. The PFI kit offers some great stuff but on top of the $3800 for the kit, the average guy who buys this will have to pay alot for install because some major adjustments WILL have to be made.... the oil pan issue has to be addressed and there are even some piping issues where welding may be needed. The measurements on the piping are not perfect yet. Relocation of sensors has to be addressed more clearly and the bottom flange of the wastegate "should" be covered although the kit can be run w/out it. Maybe even a catback should be considered. Granted most of the kit is bolt on but the install is far from straight forward. Like mentioned before, the instructions need to be refined and i dont think you should call this a bolt on kit... in fact which I see you've done in this post, you should make it a point to tell people they will need professional install so they know what they are getting into if they buy it. This is a big investment. Being one of the first to have your kit, I guess having to deal w/some of these issues comes w/the territory. I had to take a hit. However, I'd like to help you guys refine the maufacturing and install instruction on this kit so things go smooth for future buyers. I have some pics for you. I've made doubles and I'll mail them to you in CO to help out. All in all though the kit is impressive and deserves to be streamlined. If we get it right you have a chance to create a great market.
Deac
#58
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 1,035
Misinformation? Hehe!
Not really sure where the OTHER kit numbers came from but they are probably not PFI's. When you start putting S-AFC as a necessity to add $300 to your competitor's kit, that is just low! The MAF can be moved at a customer's request, we just don't recommend it. As far as BOV and other options any option is possible if it is the same price. PFI has done their best to get the best price they can on the best product they can. Things are never going to be the same price for different options unless they are truly the same price or there is some fat somewhere. Unfortunately, a pro shop with overhead will find it difficult to compete on price unless they just outsell based on reputation and quality in huge quantities. One more thing about customization, everything is customizable. In fact, so much thought has been put into this kit, that it is possible with swapping a couple of pipes (on newer versions of kit), you can change the turbo for example without having to cut up the whole kit after you have installed it. If you're on a budget, start with non-intercooled kit and upgrade later if you so wish without having to even remove the old kit. Also the kit is diassemblable (don't know about others) so that you can easily work on your car to change your clutch, tranny etc etc.. All this has been available but not mentioned before cos people WILL copy ideas ... there are more ..
As far as install goes, whoever this competitor is, is raping their customers if they are charging $490 for bumper removal and another $500 for install, I know for a fact that PFI's is not that expensive! Let's spin the wheel again and see if the numbers some up right next time!
Please email for latest pricing, we don't always publish the latest pricing precisely because of the "followers" who undercut here and there.
Well, that's enough ... I am sure everyone has been thoroughly entertained, I know have!
Not really sure where the OTHER kit numbers came from but they are probably not PFI's. When you start putting S-AFC as a necessity to add $300 to your competitor's kit, that is just low! The MAF can be moved at a customer's request, we just don't recommend it. As far as BOV and other options any option is possible if it is the same price. PFI has done their best to get the best price they can on the best product they can. Things are never going to be the same price for different options unless they are truly the same price or there is some fat somewhere. Unfortunately, a pro shop with overhead will find it difficult to compete on price unless they just outsell based on reputation and quality in huge quantities. One more thing about customization, everything is customizable. In fact, so much thought has been put into this kit, that it is possible with swapping a couple of pipes (on newer versions of kit), you can change the turbo for example without having to cut up the whole kit after you have installed it. If you're on a budget, start with non-intercooled kit and upgrade later if you so wish without having to even remove the old kit. Also the kit is diassemblable (don't know about others) so that you can easily work on your car to change your clutch, tranny etc etc.. All this has been available but not mentioned before cos people WILL copy ideas ... there are more ..
As far as install goes, whoever this competitor is, is raping their customers if they are charging $490 for bumper removal and another $500 for install, I know for a fact that PFI's is not that expensive! Let's spin the wheel again and see if the numbers some up right next time!
Please email for latest pricing, we don't always publish the latest pricing precisely because of the "followers" who undercut here and there.
Well, that's enough ... I am sure everyone has been thoroughly entertained, I know have!
Originally posted by hlh0501
There has been plenty of misinformation on this post, but it has been entertaining and I think we all have learned from it..
check out new kit setup and pricing...
NEW KIT SETUP/PRICE LINK
keeping in mind the kit can be customized to however you like considering free fabrication + install.
There has been plenty of misinformation on this post, but it has been entertaining and I think we all have learned from it..
check out new kit setup and pricing...
NEW KIT SETUP/PRICE LINK
keeping in mind the kit can be customized to however you like considering free fabrication + install.
#59
hey nigel whats up, ya my manifold is still leaking but i finally found out why, freakn oil is sprayn out of the gasket everytime i hit boost most llikely from a faulty pcv valve. i have replaced the gasket 3 times now and finally found what was wrong so i have the part on order and should be hear by monday, also would you recomend a liquid spray on gasket i have had many people tell me that it will seal betteer than the thick rubber one. let me know. ohh also the bbq is this sat let me know if you can make it. we'll caravan down there, i just helped a friend get a 95 5-speed so im trying to convince her to come down too.
ryan
ryan
#60
Originally posted by turbo97SE
As far as install goes, whoever this competitor is, is raping their customers if they are charging $490 for bumper removal
As far as install goes, whoever this competitor is, is raping their customers if they are charging $490 for bumper removal
So, it would be great if you want to correct that price to your addtl. intercooler+piping, parts+labor price if you wish, so people would have a more "real" idea of what it would cost them.
you may note your own pricing posted in this thread:
"Base Kit - non-intercooled from $3300
I/C Kit - with Spearco intercooler and piping $3790"
Some simple arithmetic, 3790-3300=490, leads me to believe your/pfi kit would be $490 more for intercooler. which oddly enough is the amount on my site for others' "intercooler" option.
$500 for install, I know for a fact that PFI's is not that expensive!
When you start putting S-AFC as a necessity to...
#62
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Originally posted by hlh0501
Also, doesn't stillen's "tried-and-true" supercharger setup pressurize the maf?
Also, doesn't stillen's "tried-and-true" supercharger setup pressurize the maf?
Pressurizing a MAF is generally accepted to be a bad idea. I wish we used MAP or Speed Density.
#63
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As far all the numbers are concerned, numbers can be twisted any way you want to, the fuel computer should be a necessity whatever kit you buy unless it comes with full engine management.
As far as stalling is concerned, this is why you don't remove your foot all the way from the gas pedal after a hard boost run, that actually helps prevent the "stall".
"... and factory cars should not and do not stall - unless toyed with (atmospherically vented blow off valve install on a factory car, etc)... "
- this tells me that factory cars tend to put the MAF before the turbo on the non-presurized side and they DO use a bypass valve not atmospheric ... they do that for a reason - reliability on boost leaks and MAF life perhaps? ... as Delio said, Stillen changed over in 2K.
... the debate continues ...
As far as stalling is concerned, this is why you don't remove your foot all the way from the gas pedal after a hard boost run, that actually helps prevent the "stall".
"... and factory cars should not and do not stall - unless toyed with (atmospherically vented blow off valve install on a factory car, etc)... "
- this tells me that factory cars tend to put the MAF before the turbo on the non-presurized side and they DO use a bypass valve not atmospheric ... they do that for a reason - reliability on boost leaks and MAF life perhaps? ... as Delio said, Stillen changed over in 2K.
... the debate continues ...
Originally posted by hlh0501
Assuming most of us do not like stalling and hurting our cars, it is neccessary. I prefer my turbo+vehicle to cool down properly after a run (as do most all other turbo owners, which is why I include a turbo timer) and stalling immediately following boost is not good for longevity, not to mention embarassing and frustrating. You said yourself in regards to safc "It does eliminate stall when you let of the gas immediately after a hard run. You should probably get a fuel computer" earlier in this thread... and factory cars should not and do not stall - unless toyed with (atmospherically vented blow off valve install on a factory car, etc). Also, doesn't stillen's "tried-and-true" supercharger setup pressurize the maf?
Assuming most of us do not like stalling and hurting our cars, it is neccessary. I prefer my turbo+vehicle to cool down properly after a run (as do most all other turbo owners, which is why I include a turbo timer) and stalling immediately following boost is not good for longevity, not to mention embarassing and frustrating. You said yourself in regards to safc "It does eliminate stall when you let of the gas immediately after a hard run. You should probably get a fuel computer" earlier in this thread... and factory cars should not and do not stall - unless toyed with (atmospherically vented blow off valve install on a factory car, etc). Also, doesn't stillen's "tried-and-true" supercharger setup pressurize the maf?
#65
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There is a device called a VPC (Vein Pressure Converter), that replaces the MAF using a MAP and computer. This is discontinued, but may come back (is the rumor). No one has tried this on the maxima, but many DSMs have for sure
Originally posted by delio
Not on the 5th gen's it doesn't... I think Stillen realized the design flaw inherent in that and switched it up on the 2k's
Pressurizing a MAF is generally accepted to be a bad idea. I wish we used MAP or Speed Density.
Not on the 5th gen's it doesn't... I think Stillen realized the design flaw inherent in that and switched it up on the 2k's
Pressurizing a MAF is generally accepted to be a bad idea. I wish we used MAP or Speed Density.
#66
My car does not stall and I have not changed the default setting for decel on the S-AFC... so adding the cost for S-AFC does not apply to everyone.
I know two other people with no stalling issues (MAF before SC).
I know two other people with no stalling issues (MAF before SC).
#67
I have been stalling..
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
My car does not stall and I have not changed the default setting for decel on the S-AFC... so adding the cost for S-AFC does not apply to everyone.
I know two other people with no stalling issues (MAF before SC).
My car does not stall and I have not changed the default setting for decel on the S-AFC... so adding the cost for S-AFC does not apply to everyone.
I know two other people with no stalling issues (MAF before SC).
Deac
#68
Re: I have been stalling..
Originally posted by Deac
I stalled out a couple of times yesterday on my maiden run... But I always knew I waould need an S-AFC so its not a big deal to me. I'l have mined installed next week and we'll see what happens from there.
Deac
I stalled out a couple of times yesterday on my maiden run... But I always knew I waould need an S-AFC so its not a big deal to me. I'l have mined installed next week and we'll see what happens from there.
Deac
#69
Re: Re: WHAT?!?!
[QUOTE]Originally posted by turbo97SE
[B]Hi Deac
Not sure if you read this ...
11. "bolt-on" kit. This is not for the novice mechanic! I have to admit you should not do this unless you are VERY familiar with the car and fuel/oil system. I personally do not think it is very difficult, but from feedback from others, it is not easy. .."
I have conceeded the fact that this is not simple bolt on above. That's why it is in quotation marks ... perhaps this was not clear. But if you look at many kits offered by other reputable companies such as Greddy for Hondas as one example, they are also labeled as "bolt-on" kits even though they need to tap an oil pan ... easier on Hondas but still needs to be done. As far as needing a pro install ... well, two people have installed it themselves, granted, they are real gearheads, Kev being one, the other doesn't wish to be mentioned but they were not pros.
Admittedly, one of the pipes was a definite mistake ... shipped a 95-99 instead of a 2000 TB pipe. There really should be no need to do ANY welding at all. If any welding was required, it would have been either an installation error OR wrong part was sent. Actually, thinking about it, two of the pipes are very similar and it's possible that these were swapped. Need to check your pics.
I know all of you have had issues, espcially people like Kev/Sprint where none of the piping fit at all! Joaquink had some major issues also. Definitely fewer with your kit than all the others (not an excuse). Also in talking to Phil, looks like you didn't want to cut any of your bumper sections which could also be a reason why some of the piping didn't fit. The kit was designed to go through the front sections of the car. All the guys that have tried the kit have been great to work with and have worked through many issues and fed back to make a better kit. Thanks to all!
turbo97se
Nig,
The piping is not a big deal to me... a couple of them were wrong and we fixed them ourselves. The IC setup and cutting the bumper was our choice... as a matter of fact we will probably end up cutting it in a few weeks. As far as the install goes, I know you posted that "disclaimer" on your lastest offer but I have the offer printed out from even before Kev got his kit. Sure its labeled a bolt on but alot of work needs to be done and it requires ALOT of labor...even for the "gear heads" as you call them. Was'nt Kev's car down for like a month? My point is that I was under the impression that the kit was more like lets say the Stillen SC bolt on kit... that, even a regular guy without much mechanical knowledge could do w/a little help. The old advertisement gave me that impression. Lets face it, I'd bet that better that 75% of the guys IMO are not great mechanics.. just regular dudes w/money So... and again I'm just trying to offer some constructive input, people should know what they are in for if they cant install it themselves. Its good that the new offer lays it out a bit clearer... BTW, I'll take an APEXI Turbo Timer as my free gauge!!!
Deac
[B]Hi Deac
Not sure if you read this ...
11. "bolt-on" kit. This is not for the novice mechanic! I have to admit you should not do this unless you are VERY familiar with the car and fuel/oil system. I personally do not think it is very difficult, but from feedback from others, it is not easy. .."
I have conceeded the fact that this is not simple bolt on above. That's why it is in quotation marks ... perhaps this was not clear. But if you look at many kits offered by other reputable companies such as Greddy for Hondas as one example, they are also labeled as "bolt-on" kits even though they need to tap an oil pan ... easier on Hondas but still needs to be done. As far as needing a pro install ... well, two people have installed it themselves, granted, they are real gearheads, Kev being one, the other doesn't wish to be mentioned but they were not pros.
Admittedly, one of the pipes was a definite mistake ... shipped a 95-99 instead of a 2000 TB pipe. There really should be no need to do ANY welding at all. If any welding was required, it would have been either an installation error OR wrong part was sent. Actually, thinking about it, two of the pipes are very similar and it's possible that these were swapped. Need to check your pics.
I know all of you have had issues, espcially people like Kev/Sprint where none of the piping fit at all! Joaquink had some major issues also. Definitely fewer with your kit than all the others (not an excuse). Also in talking to Phil, looks like you didn't want to cut any of your bumper sections which could also be a reason why some of the piping didn't fit. The kit was designed to go through the front sections of the car. All the guys that have tried the kit have been great to work with and have worked through many issues and fed back to make a better kit. Thanks to all!
turbo97se
Nig,
The piping is not a big deal to me... a couple of them were wrong and we fixed them ourselves. The IC setup and cutting the bumper was our choice... as a matter of fact we will probably end up cutting it in a few weeks. As far as the install goes, I know you posted that "disclaimer" on your lastest offer but I have the offer printed out from even before Kev got his kit. Sure its labeled a bolt on but alot of work needs to be done and it requires ALOT of labor...even for the "gear heads" as you call them. Was'nt Kev's car down for like a month? My point is that I was under the impression that the kit was more like lets say the Stillen SC bolt on kit... that, even a regular guy without much mechanical knowledge could do w/a little help. The old advertisement gave me that impression. Lets face it, I'd bet that better that 75% of the guys IMO are not great mechanics.. just regular dudes w/money So... and again I'm just trying to offer some constructive input, people should know what they are in for if they cant install it themselves. Its good that the new offer lays it out a bit clearer... BTW, I'll take an APEXI Turbo Timer as my free gauge!!!
Deac
#71
Re: Re: Re: WHAT?!?!
Originally posted by Deac
Was'nt Kev's car down for like a month?
Deac
Was'nt Kev's car down for like a month?
Deac
I'll take an Autometer Full Sweep Fuel Pressure Gauge.
#72
Re: Re: Re: Re: WHAT?!?!
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
3+ months, but I was doing a lot of customization along with waiting for the correct piping.
I'll take an Autometer Full Sweep Fuel Pressure Gauge.
3+ months, but I was doing a lot of customization along with waiting for the correct piping.
I'll take an Autometer Full Sweep Fuel Pressure Gauge.
#74
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 1,035
I wanted to close off on this MAF thing. Here are some links I found today that give some indication of where they think the MAF should be:
Nissan Sentra:
http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0303tur_ser/
Porsche after-market:
http://www.splitsec.com/spike/porsch...age3photo2.jpg
Mustangs ... only put it on compressor if they have no choice i.e. twin turbo setup: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/22.shtml
200sx: http://lion.esosoft.net/hotshot.com/turbo/200sx.htm
Subaru Impreza (aftermarket):
http://www.airbornemotorsports.com/p...uct-EngTun.htm
240sx: http://www.popsci.com/popsci/auto/ar...3014-3,00.html
I suppose Nissan also got it wrong!
http://users.tinyworld.co.uk/chooyinfu/skyline.htm
and here too for single turbo:
http://homepage.mac.com/nickwong1/PhotoAlbum1.html
Wow! So many people are WRONG!
'nuff said on this
Here's some more stuff to ponder about. Here is an excerpt from a book called TURBOCHARGERS by Hugh Macinnes. It shows the right and wrong way to tap a pan if you tap the pan (Tapping the lower pan would give you the left hand side ... in case you were wondering):
AND in the same book, he comments on draining to the valve cover. The whole debate about whether or not ours is high enough is always going to be debated, but at least it has been done!
Please tell me and so many others we are all wrong, please be our salvation and help us right our wrong-doings for we are all sinners! ... oh wait sorry, I am getting carried away here.
Have a nice day ...
Nissan Sentra:
http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0303tur_ser/
Porsche after-market:
http://www.splitsec.com/spike/porsch...age3photo2.jpg
Mustangs ... only put it on compressor if they have no choice i.e. twin turbo setup: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/22.shtml
200sx: http://lion.esosoft.net/hotshot.com/turbo/200sx.htm
Subaru Impreza (aftermarket):
http://www.airbornemotorsports.com/p...uct-EngTun.htm
240sx: http://www.popsci.com/popsci/auto/ar...3014-3,00.html
I suppose Nissan also got it wrong!
http://users.tinyworld.co.uk/chooyinfu/skyline.htm
and here too for single turbo:
http://homepage.mac.com/nickwong1/PhotoAlbum1.html
Wow! So many people are WRONG!
'nuff said on this
Here's some more stuff to ponder about. Here is an excerpt from a book called TURBOCHARGERS by Hugh Macinnes. It shows the right and wrong way to tap a pan if you tap the pan (Tapping the lower pan would give you the left hand side ... in case you were wondering):
AND in the same book, he comments on draining to the valve cover. The whole debate about whether or not ours is high enough is always going to be debated, but at least it has been done!
Please tell me and so many others we are all wrong, please be our salvation and help us right our wrong-doings for we are all sinners! ... oh wait sorry, I am getting carried away here.
Have a nice day ...
#75
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by turbo97SE
I wanted to close off on this MAF thing. Here are some links I found today that give some indication of where they think the MAF should be:
Nissan Sentra:
http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0303tur_ser/
Porsche after-market:
http://www.splitsec.com/spike/porsch...age3photo2.jpg
Mustangs ... only put it on compressor if they have no choice i.e. twin turbo setup: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/22.shtml
200sx: http://lion.esosoft.net/hotshot.com/turbo/200sx.htm
Subaru Impreza (aftermarket):
http://www.airbornemotorsports.com/p...uct-EngTun.htm
240sx: http://www.popsci.com/popsci/auto/ar...3014-3,00.html
I suppose Nissan also got it wrong!
http://users.tinyworld.co.uk/chooyinfu/skyline.htm
and here too for single turbo:
http://homepage.mac.com/nickwong1/PhotoAlbum1.html
Wow! So many people are WRONG!
'nuff said on this
Here's some more stuff to ponder about. Here is an excerpt from a book called TURBOCHARGERS by Hugh Macinnes. It shows the right and wrong way to tap a pan if you tap the pan (Tapping the lower pan would give you the left hand side ... in case you were wondering):
AND in the same book, he comments on draining to the valve cover. The whole debate about whether or not ours is high enough is always going to be debated, but at least it has been done!
Please tell me and so many others we are all wrong, please be our salvation and help us right our wrong-doings for we are all sinners! ... oh wait sorry, I am getting carried away here.
Have a nice day ...
I wanted to close off on this MAF thing. Here are some links I found today that give some indication of where they think the MAF should be:
Nissan Sentra:
http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0303tur_ser/
Porsche after-market:
http://www.splitsec.com/spike/porsch...age3photo2.jpg
Mustangs ... only put it on compressor if they have no choice i.e. twin turbo setup: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/22.shtml
200sx: http://lion.esosoft.net/hotshot.com/turbo/200sx.htm
Subaru Impreza (aftermarket):
http://www.airbornemotorsports.com/p...uct-EngTun.htm
240sx: http://www.popsci.com/popsci/auto/ar...3014-3,00.html
I suppose Nissan also got it wrong!
http://users.tinyworld.co.uk/chooyinfu/skyline.htm
and here too for single turbo:
http://homepage.mac.com/nickwong1/PhotoAlbum1.html
Wow! So many people are WRONG!
'nuff said on this
Here's some more stuff to ponder about. Here is an excerpt from a book called TURBOCHARGERS by Hugh Macinnes. It shows the right and wrong way to tap a pan if you tap the pan (Tapping the lower pan would give you the left hand side ... in case you were wondering):
AND in the same book, he comments on draining to the valve cover. The whole debate about whether or not ours is high enough is always going to be debated, but at least it has been done!
Please tell me and so many others we are all wrong, please be our salvation and help us right our wrong-doings for we are all sinners! ... oh wait sorry, I am getting carried away here.
Have a nice day ...
#76
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 1,035
Re: Re: I have been stalling..
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
Yup... that's weird. Don't know why this happens to some and not others. The people who don't stall out probably had excellent installers.
Yup... that's weird. Don't know why this happens to some and not others. The people who don't stall out probably had excellent installers.
#78
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 1,035
Re: Re: Re: WHAT?!?!
Thanks for the constructive statements, that is why I changed the statement and put it in quotes. A word on the installation stuff, boost is not maintenance free. If you don't install it yourself, get a local shop to do it for you, whether it is a custom kit or whatever. If you encounter any issues, you can at least consult them or get it tuned by them (some will be less accommodating than others to issues). If you get it done a long way from home, well you could face some issues and you may be on your own. If you DO install it yourself, you are likely to be very familiar with its set up and fixing issues may be easier. If a boost pipe blows off for example, would you be able to recognize the symptoms, do you know what to do?
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Deac
[B]
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Deac
[B]
Originally posted by turbo97SE
Nig,
The piping is not a big deal to me... a couple of them were wrong and we fixed them ourselves. The IC setup and cutting the bumper was our choice... as a matter of fact we will probably end up cutting it in a few weeks. As far as the install goes, I know you posted that "disclaimer" on your lastest offer but I have the offer printed out from even before Kev got his kit. Sure its labeled a bolt on but alot of work needs to be done and it requires ALOT of labor...even for the "gear heads" as you call them. Was'nt Kev's car down for like a month? My point is that I was under the impression that the kit was more like lets say the Stillen SC bolt on kit... that, even a regular guy without much mechanical knowledge could do w/a little help. The old advertisement gave me that impression. Lets face it, I'd bet that better that 75% of the guys IMO are not great mechanics.. just regular dudes w/money So... and again I'm just trying to offer some constructive input, people should know what they are in for if they cant install it themselves. Its good that the new offer lays it out a bit clearer... BTW, I'll take an APEXI Turbo Timer as my free gauge!!!
Deac
Nig,
The piping is not a big deal to me... a couple of them were wrong and we fixed them ourselves. The IC setup and cutting the bumper was our choice... as a matter of fact we will probably end up cutting it in a few weeks. As far as the install goes, I know you posted that "disclaimer" on your lastest offer but I have the offer printed out from even before Kev got his kit. Sure its labeled a bolt on but alot of work needs to be done and it requires ALOT of labor...even for the "gear heads" as you call them. Was'nt Kev's car down for like a month? My point is that I was under the impression that the kit was more like lets say the Stillen SC bolt on kit... that, even a regular guy without much mechanical knowledge could do w/a little help. The old advertisement gave me that impression. Lets face it, I'd bet that better that 75% of the guys IMO are not great mechanics.. just regular dudes w/money So... and again I'm just trying to offer some constructive input, people should know what they are in for if they cant install it themselves. Its good that the new offer lays it out a bit clearer... BTW, I'll take an APEXI Turbo Timer as my free gauge!!!
Deac
#79
Re: Re: Re: Re: WHAT?!?!
Originally posted by turbo97SE
If a boost pipe blows off for example, would you be able to recognize the symptoms, do you know what to do?
If a boost pipe blows off for example, would you be able to recognize the symptoms, do you know what to do?
If you're going with MAF before boost, don't get the Fields fuel controller or you die coming off boost.
#80
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (38)
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Near Archer High School, Ga
Posts: 6,451
Re: Re: Re: Re: WHAT?!?!
Originally posted by turbo97SE
Thanks for the constructive statements, that is why I changed the statement and put it in quotes. A word on the installation stuff, boost is not maintenance free. If you don't install it yourself, get a local shop to do it for you, whether it is a custom kit or whatever. If you encounter any issues, you can at least consult them or get it tuned by them (some will be less accommodating than others to issues). If you get it done a long way from home, well you could face some issues and you may be on your own. If you DO install it yourself, you are likely to be very familiar with its set up and fixing issues may be easier. If a boost pipe blows off for example, would you be able to recognize the symptoms, do you know what to do?
Thanks for the constructive statements, that is why I changed the statement and put it in quotes. A word on the installation stuff, boost is not maintenance free. If you don't install it yourself, get a local shop to do it for you, whether it is a custom kit or whatever. If you encounter any issues, you can at least consult them or get it tuned by them (some will be less accommodating than others to issues). If you get it done a long way from home, well you could face some issues and you may be on your own. If you DO install it yourself, you are likely to be very familiar with its set up and fixing issues may be easier. If a boost pipe blows off for example, would you be able to recognize the symptoms, do you know what to do?