What is SAFC?
Originally posted by CASS98SE
Okay thanks, I understand now. Do you think I should buy it? I am going to have a egt guage, and FP... How much is it? Is it hard to use?
Okay thanks, I understand now. Do you think I should buy it? I am going to have a egt guage, and FP... How much is it? Is it hard to use?
If you do, then yes, cause it will allow you to optimize the a/f ratio for maximum HP. It costs about $275 and is fairly simple to use.
You need to tune it on a wideband dyno.
Dixit
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Do you have some form of boost? If not, then not really needed.
If you do, then yes, cause it will allow you to optimize the a/f ratio for maximum HP. It costs about $275 and is fairly simple to use.
You need to tune it on a wideband dyno.
Dixit
Do you have some form of boost? If not, then not really needed.
If you do, then yes, cause it will allow you to optimize the a/f ratio for maximum HP. It costs about $275 and is fairly simple to use.
You need to tune it on a wideband dyno.
Dixit
Btw Bigdog! I got some updated info from nissan... the s-afcII went in on Thursday night, and I did a bit of tuning at the track for my top end last night
No traction to work with, but I got 0.1/0.2 and a couple of mph better in my 1/8th and 1/4 mile 
No traction to work with, but I got 0.1/0.2 and a couple of mph better in my 1/8th and 1/4 mile 
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
http://www.apexi-usa.com/electronics_safc.asp
That will explain what it does.
Dixit
http://www.apexi-usa.com/electronics_safc.asp
That will explain what it does.
Dixit
Originally posted by Jer
Btw Bigdog! I got some updated info from nissan... the s-afcII went in on Thursday night, and I did a bit of tuning at the track for my top end last night
No traction to work with, but I got 0.1/0.2 and a couple of mph better in my 1/8th and 1/4 mile 
Btw Bigdog! I got some updated info from nissan... the s-afcII went in on Thursday night, and I did a bit of tuning at the track for my top end last night
No traction to work with, but I got 0.1/0.2 and a couple of mph better in my 1/8th and 1/4 mile 
I did and I was going to
Fortunately I'm a stubborn bastard and couldn't give up 
Fortunately I'm a stubborn bastard and couldn't give up 
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
I thought you were having the worst time trying to get it to work and you were going to give up and sell it? Or do I got the wrong person?
I thought you were having the worst time trying to get it to work and you were going to give up and sell it? Or do I got the wrong person?
Originally posted by Jer
I did and I was going to
Fortunately I'm a stubborn bastard and couldn't give up 
I did and I was going to
Fortunately I'm a stubborn bastard and couldn't give up 
Dixit
Well the wires didn't match up ... Nissan Canada sent me an ECU diagram a little bit different from the ones that I had seen earlier on... it was my early build date.. for some reason it was just a little bit different (not sure why they couldn't/wouldn't give me a technical explanation) - I compared it to my friend's 2000 built in 08/2000 and it was different from my own.
I've never seen an automobile manuf do this... it's not worth the expense to change something mid-year... but as long as the car runs well and I'm not missing anything, I guess it doesn't worry me as much (maybe this is why my tranny is still alive - I got a rare early model version that is more beatable hehe).
I've never seen an automobile manuf do this... it's not worth the expense to change something mid-year... but as long as the car runs well and I'm not missing anything, I guess it doesn't worry me as much (maybe this is why my tranny is still alive - I got a rare early model version that is more beatable hehe).
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
So what was it? I wanted to know how you eventually got it working, I remember working with you trying to get you working on it.
Dixit
So what was it? I wanted to know how you eventually got it working, I remember working with you trying to get you working on it.
Dixit
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Do you have some form of boost? If not, then not really needed.
If you do, then yes, cause it will allow you to optimize the a/f ratio for maximum HP. It costs about $275 and is fairly simple to use.
You need to tune it on a wideband dyno.
Dixit
Do you have some form of boost? If not, then not really needed.
If you do, then yes, cause it will allow you to optimize the a/f ratio for maximum HP. It costs about $275 and is fairly simple to use.
You need to tune it on a wideband dyno.
Dixit
Originally posted by qnpark
u dont need a dyno to tune a safc. all u need is egt gauge. you could street tune it if u dont mind driving 100 mph. dyno tunning might be accurate but if u street tune it ur looking at 5 to 10 hp difference then a dyno.
u dont need a dyno to tune a safc. all u need is egt gauge. you could street tune it if u dont mind driving 100 mph. dyno tunning might be accurate but if u street tune it ur looking at 5 to 10 hp difference then a dyno.
I think a wideband O2 sensor is probably more accurate than doing it on a dyno. I don't believe the dyno loads the engine as hard as a wide open throttle run on the track.
Originally posted by qnpark
u dont need a dyno to tune a safc. all u need is egt gauge. you could street tune it if u dont mind driving 100 mph. dyno tunning might be accurate but if u street tune it ur looking at 5 to 10 hp difference then a dyno.
u dont need a dyno to tune a safc. all u need is egt gauge. you could street tune it if u dont mind driving 100 mph. dyno tunning might be accurate but if u street tune it ur looking at 5 to 10 hp difference then a dyno.
Dixit
Btw I'm still tinkering with the settings.. what did you folks set your AFC's to when it comes to low end (prior to boost)... I set it to 0% until 2000, then +1% at 2200/+2%@2800, then tinkered it a little bit on the rich side from there based on my wideband 02 dyno info (eventually going back down to a 3% increase by the time it's at 6600rpm - I was running much leaner until 4200rpm which was my primary concern/purpose for the afc).
I'm just sorta thinking that I shouldn't immediately feed an increase of 10% if the previous point was at zero...
I'm just sorta thinking that I shouldn't immediately feed an increase of 10% if the previous point was at zero...
Originally posted by Jime
I think a wideband O2 sensor is probably more accurate than doing it on a dyno. I don't believe the dyno loads the engine as hard as a wide open throttle run on the track.
I think a wideband O2 sensor is probably more accurate than doing it on a dyno. I don't believe the dyno loads the engine as hard as a wide open throttle run on the track.
Originally posted by Stephen Max
Do you have a recommendation for a wideband O2 sensor, Jime?
Do you have a recommendation for a wideband O2 sensor, Jime?
I don't Stephen, I have access to a very expensive one for testing so I am very lucky that way. My Son even gave me a bung and plug that I had welded on when I got my Y-Pipe installed and he has access to the wideband where he works.
Hopefully next week we will get a chance to try it out. He is just installing a new turbonetics turbo, etc etc etc for his DSM, so we are going to do it together.
I have looked at a few but don't think I want to spend the bucks for one at this time.
Jim
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