Changing out head gasket, how hard?
05-20-2003 | 08:04 AM
#1
Changing out head gasket, how hard?
Well I been thinking of changing it out after I get a custom one made since no one makes one for our cars (unless im horribly wrong). Now I dont know the first thing about how hard this is going to be but looking from the Service Manaul it doesnt seem to be too daunting of a task except the removal of the cams and timing chain which I totally dont want to do since that always brings nothing but problems.
What can you estimate time wise on this change and do I have to mark all the cams like what position they were in and where the timing chain was and all that good stuff to make sure I dont had a rod come flying out the hood.
Also what is a good thickness and material to go with? I can get one custom made/cnc'ed if I get my friend the OEM gasket to go by.
Just want to know what the benefits in how much more HP/boost can I push just by changing out the headgasket. Which I never understood how it works in lowering the compression. Im a bit lost on that part.
Dixit
What can you estimate time wise on this change and do I have to mark all the cams like what position they were in and where the timing chain was and all that good stuff to make sure I dont had a rod come flying out the hood.
Also what is a good thickness and material to go with? I can get one custom made/cnc'ed if I get my friend the OEM gasket to go by.
Just want to know what the benefits in how much more HP/boost can I push just by changing out the headgasket. Which I never understood how it works in lowering the compression. Im a bit lost on that part.
Dixit
05-20-2003 | 12:08 PM
#2
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....66#post2040166
Here is a copper set that is as close to stock as possible...
Lowering compression with a head gasket, can be done by a thicker gasket. By doing so you have increased the volume of the cylinder, which reduces the compression...
Here is a copper set that is as close to stock as possible...
Lowering compression with a head gasket, can be done by a thicker gasket. By doing so you have increased the volume of the cylinder, which reduces the compression...
05-20-2003 | 12:18 PM
#3
I would highly recommend just going with a stock thickness. If you use an extra thick gasket, you run into the chance that the increased cam to crank distances will change the cam timing. You might need to have a set of adjustable cam sprockets installed(but I've never seen a Maxima application yet). It might work w/o them but it's something I'd look SERIOUSLY into before just diving into it
Originally posted by MadMax95
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....66#post2040166
Here is a copper set that is as close to stock as possible...
Lowering compression with a head gasket, can be done by a thicker gasket. By doing so you have increased the volume of the cylinder, which reduces the compression...
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....66#post2040166
Here is a copper set that is as close to stock as possible...
Lowering compression with a head gasket, can be done by a thicker gasket. By doing so you have increased the volume of the cylinder, which reduces the compression...
05-20-2003 | 03:18 PM
#4
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,857
From: San Bruno, Petaluma, SF Bay area
SCE makes a head gasket set and some guy on the forums is selling it. maybe thats what the thread is. anyways, changing a head gasket on the car your lookin at 17.5 hours per Mitchell repair manual. ive done it before and i definetely agree it takes about that long!!
05-20-2003 | 05:20 PM
#5
Originally posted by Turbo95Max
SCE makes a head gasket set and some guy on the forums is selling it. maybe thats what the thread is. anyways, changing a head gasket on the car your lookin at 17.5 hours per Mitchell repair manual. ive done it before and i definetely agree it takes about that long!!
SCE makes a head gasket set and some guy on the forums is selling it. maybe thats what the thread is. anyways, changing a head gasket on the car your lookin at 17.5 hours per Mitchell repair manual. ive done it before and i definetely agree it takes about that long!!
sorry to jack your thread dixit, but kev said you have this product... turbo insulation kit http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=DEI%2D010113
how do you like it??
thak you very much
05-21-2003 | 12:26 AM
#6
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,857
From: San Bruno, Petaluma, SF Bay area
wow, you got the right brand i have too
hehe, anyways, yea its good insulation. i have an infared gun i use to take temps of things and it was definetely lower temps. dont have numbers in front of me tho. i hated installing it.
hehe, anyways, yea its good insulation. i have an infared gun i use to take temps of things and it was definetely lower temps. dont have numbers in front of me tho. i hated installing it.
05-21-2003 | 06:57 AM
#7
Dixit, I was over at Swift yesterday talking with Mo about just this. I showed him the stock VQ35 gasket and he insisted that it would hold better for a street application than a copper. From what I gather, copper gaskets are prone to leak fluids (Matthel?), not good for street, for race where you change them often its no big deal. Now copper with O-ring will hold boost/nitrous better than OE but at a reliability cost.
Mo insists that the stock gaskets will hold provided you use, ARP head studs instaead of bolts. The studs allow more clamping force than factory "torqe to yield" bolts. The factory bolts actually stretch as you torque them down so you cant over torque them and warp the heads/block mating surface, for mass production ease. This is bad with high cylinder pressures because the bolts will stretch from the very high peak cylinder pressures of a high output motor.TThe ARP stud kit for the heads and mains will be available soon, I am working with SGP on them for my VQ35 build up. I plan to use the stock gasket and studs for perhaps 600whp
, if the block can take it.
Mo insists that the stock gaskets will hold provided you use, ARP head studs instaead of bolts. The studs allow more clamping force than factory "torqe to yield" bolts. The factory bolts actually stretch as you torque them down so you cant over torque them and warp the heads/block mating surface, for mass production ease. This is bad with high cylinder pressures because the bolts will stretch from the very high peak cylinder pressures of a high output motor.TThe ARP stud kit for the heads and mains will be available soon, I am working with SGP on them for my VQ35 build up. I plan to use the stock gasket and studs for perhaps 600whp
, if the block can take it.
05-21-2003 | 07:03 AM
#8
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
Dixit, I was over at Swift yesterday talking with Mo about just this. I showed him the stock VQ35 gasket and he insisted that it would hold better for a street application than a copper. From what I gather, copper gaskets are prone to leak fluids (Matthel?), not good for street, for race where you change them often its no big deal. Now copper with O-ring will hold boost/nitrous better than OE but at a reliability cost.
Mo insists that the stock gaskets will hold provided you use, ARP head studs instaead of bolts. The studs allow more clamping force than factory "torqe to yield" bolts. The factory bolts actually stretch as you torque them down so you cant over torque them and warp the heads/block mating surface, for mass production ease. This is bad with high cylinder pressures because the bolts will stretch from the very high peak cylinder pressures of a high output motor.TThe ARP stud kit for the heads and mains will be available soon, I am working with SGP on them for my VQ35 build up. I plan to use the stock gasket and studs for perhaps 600whp, if the block can take it.
Dixit, I was over at Swift yesterday talking with Mo about just this. I showed him the stock VQ35 gasket and he insisted that it would hold better for a street application than a copper. From what I gather, copper gaskets are prone to leak fluids (Matthel?), not good for street, for race where you change them often its no big deal. Now copper with O-ring will hold boost/nitrous better than OE but at a reliability cost.
Mo insists that the stock gaskets will hold provided you use, ARP head studs instaead of bolts. The studs allow more clamping force than factory "torqe to yield" bolts. The factory bolts actually stretch as you torque them down so you cant over torque them and warp the heads/block mating surface, for mass production ease. This is bad with high cylinder pressures because the bolts will stretch from the very high peak cylinder pressures of a high output motor.TThe ARP stud kit for the heads and mains will be available soon, I am working with SGP on them for my VQ35 build up. I plan to use the stock gasket and studs for perhaps 600whp
, if the block can take it.
Dixit
05-23-2003 | 07:44 AM
#9
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
SRT? Ugh! Read the Go fast section at IS300.NET. They have been getting a bad rep recently.
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Well I will let you in on something, me and Mo been talking, and I might be dumping the max soon. Im going to buy a Gs300 and give Mo about 15k to ramp it up like the IS300 they did that put down like 560-600whp. So he corrupted me from day one since I met him. Buts it gonna be harder now that I live in ATL and Im not around the shop to swing by and drop the car off and see whats going on. They are good guys.
Dixit
Well I will let you in on something, me and Mo been talking, and I might be dumping the max soon. Im going to buy a Gs300 and give Mo about 15k to ramp it up like the IS300 they did that put down like 560-600whp. So he corrupted me from day one since I met him. Buts it gonna be harder now that I live in ATL and Im not around the shop to swing by and drop the car off and see whats going on. They are good guys.
Dixit
05-23-2003 | 07:59 AM
#10
Originally posted by turbo97SE
SRT? Ugh! Read the Go fast section at IS300.NET. They have been getting a bad rep recently.
SRT? Ugh! Read the Go fast section at IS300.NET. They have been getting a bad rep recently.
You got any links to show some of the stuff they got issues with.
Dixit
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