LatinMax

iTrader: (1)

OK I am putting the SC in my car. But this time I am going to go with a 2.875" pulley.
I also have the CAI, S-AFC, guages (EGT, Boost & FP), Cattman 2.5" exhaust and the light weight (non-underdrive) pulley.

I am also thinking of doing the Aquamist (or something like it) setup, J&S, and maybe a front mount intercooler.

Is this over kill?
Which of these last 3 things do I need? If any?
Would It be ok with just the water injection and the J&S?
Will the FMIC be worth the money?

Please give me your opions or ideas.

Thanks

Redmax

iTrader: (20)

i dunno but here is a friendly bump

Chunger

iTrader: (1)

I haven't run that small a pulley but...

I would say use either water injection OR inter/aftercooler... J&S on the side for safety's sake.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

The minimum would be an Aquamist alcohol/WI system that turns on at say 6+psi for ~$420 shipped.

Besides the hp/tq benefits from an inter/after-cooler, an charge cooler would produce less wear on your engine and you'd get less detonation during hard runs or hot weather.

If the choice is EITHER WI or a charge cooler, I'd say get the cooler.

You don't need the J&S, until you start pushing 12+psi, so that would be my LAST purchase.

LatinMax

iTrader: (1)

Am I not around or above 12 psi with a 2.875 pulley on a V2 and CAI?

Craig Mack

Good question. I'd say your at 12-13psi.

LatinMax

iTrader: (1)

So does that mean that I should go with the fmic, aquamist & J&S.
Considering cost and what HP gains I will get from all that.
And what kind of HP should I see.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Kev was running a 2.6xx and he only saw 11psi, right? 9ish with WI.

I doubt you'll need J&S with a cooler, since he didn't with just WI(alcohol/water) and crap 91-octance Cali pi$$ water.

An properly sized intercooler *SHOULD* buy you a few more psi.

20thdriven

iTrader: (2)

Someone posted a "do it yourself" WI kit a while back. It costs no more than $240 IIRC versus $420. Someone please post the site if they remember. What injectors are you running?? I thought that pulley maxes ours out. Ever think about a 30-50 shot instead. I'm still thinking of it for my 3.125 V2. If not then I'll follow your lead.

IMO to answer your post, the fmic would be fine especially w/ an NX N-tercooler (~$450). Or try intercoolertechniques.com for the same thing (~$200) check out the hp gains. good luck

LatinMax

iTrader: (1)

I have been working on one that will run me around $100. It just has been easier to say Aquamist for question purposes. I wil do a write-up on it if it works.

Chunger

iTrader: (1)

Just don't hydrolock your engine by having a faulty "trigger/activator"....

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Don't bother with ghetto kits unless you're using it just for an N-tercooler type deal.

$420 for the Aquamist is peanuts for what you get. EXTREME high quality and almost bullet-proof. Unless you're Kev of course and run it dry for long periods of time.

LatinMax

iTrader: (1)

I was going to run a RV pump that has a shut off if you run it dry and a warning light to let you know that it was empty. And from what I looked at it runs at the same rate or a little higher than the Aquamist.
It is just a though.

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

The reservior is hooked up to the windshield washer light, so when it's low, I know.

Chunger

iTrader: (1)

Don't know if a standard RV water pump will work... Remember it's gotta overcome the boost PSI by a wide margin to get a good spray pattern...

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Suuuuure....then how did you manage to burn it up?

Plus, don't you have a CEL and all kinds of rice blue lights staring you in the face too?

LatinMax

iTrader: (1)

So kev. Would you go with a FMIC or do you think that is overkill?

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

Seriously, I don't know. The reservior has never been close to empty.

The CEL is for the auto tranny, but the winshield washer light is different. No rice blue lights.


If you plan on keeping your car for a REALLY long time (with the SC of course), then a FMIC is a good choice. If you do go with an FMIC, make sure it's not too large or you'll loose some psi's. Of course, this is JMO.

LatinMax

iTrader: (1)

How big of a FMIC do I need to go with.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

I'm not Kev, but EVERYTHING I've read says to stuff in the largest IC possible. However, that's usually stated in regards to a TC car, which isn't boost limited by a pulley, so you can always crank up the boost to make up for the drop.

I'll see if I can dig up some equations or net calculators to give you a ballpark idea of what size is right. However, whoever you choose to buy the IC from should be MORE then capable of telling you what intercooler is best for the room you have to work with.

SSR Engineering

FMIC / J&S, you don't want to get dependant on some sort of external cooling provider. Like an Aquamist, because of the high chance of the line getting clogged, or whatever. But an Aquamist is almost overkill, it's a good thing to have just as a safety pre-caution but it's not good to rely on it.

Y2KevSE

iTrader: (13)

I don't know how big the FMIC should be, but I agree with Alex that the seller should be able to recommend the best size.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

I got lazy on the calculations. I'll try and get off my duff and look tonight.

BTW, 2-for-2 on the Kev scale...schweeeeet.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Okay...no calculations, but some "tips".

Call SPEARCO (805)581-0333 and ask for their intercooler catalog. Once you decide on what type, ie bar/plate, tube/fin, or newer extruded tube/fin, they have "proprietary modeling software" for customizing to your needs. Probably BIG $$$$ though.

Bar/plate is a more efficient heat exchanger then tube/fin, but more expensive and can cause increased lag due to a greater pressure drop. The amount of pressure drop depends on density and design of fins. One type called "plain fins" allows lowest pressure drop, but not as great of heat transfer(not good!) compared to "louvered" fins or "offset" fins. Louvered or offset fins decrease air velocity, ie add pressure drop, however allow more time to transfer heat. Bar/plate also have a greater mass to soak up heat at low speeds like stop-and-go traffic and then release it once air velocity increases.

A larger surface area allows more cooling from the ambient air compared to a thicker core. 80% of the cooling occurs within the FRONT 2" of intercooler core, so bigger surface area with a MAXimum of a 3" core is recommended withOUT blocking too much radiator airflow. For increasing the surface area, it is better to maximize the height then widen the core, ie go taller rather then wider. The pressure drop is more when the charge air has to travel through a longer passage vs. a shorter passage, however the amount of drop can be minimized using a proper fin design to compensate.

Too large of an intercooler and turbo piping size contribute to lag. The recommendations for piping size are:
<300hp use 2-2.25 inch
<400hp use 2.25 inch from compressor discharge to the intercooler with 2.5 inch from intercooler to throttle body.
500+hp use 2.5 inch

LatinMax

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info. Is there anyone with a SC that is using a FMIC? and what are they using?
I am really liking the whole more power thing and what to be prepared if I decide to put the belt directly on the shaft

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Pulley...nah...just use a bolt.

I know of one 5th gen that just switched to a turbo that had one, NOT sure what kind though. I do know he was selling it not to long ago.