I started to get this weird metallic noise coming from the V2 blower and the first thing that came to my mind was the bearings. Well, once I got home I noticed that the pulley had shifted over and was rubbing against the closest 10mm bolt. I noticed that part of the pulley was shiny and thats when I noticed that there was no clearance space.

I grabbed my thickest file and laid it square against the pulley. I then took my hammer and gave it a few good wacks to get back some clearance. Firing up the engine the noise was gone.

Has anybody had the same problem?
I was wondering if this requires another tear-down to tighten down the bolt that secures the pulley?

 

Sh*t! Went for a test drive and the pulley shifted over again! Now I definitely have to take apart the SC. Since that is going to happen I may as well get the 3.125" pulley. Unfortunately I'll have to ride the bus until the part comes in.

 

So your pulley bolt came loose? Better use some Loctite on it. I didn't use any when I put my 3" pulley on, I think I'm going to go downstairs and check it right now.

 

I installed the 3.33" back in November. I guess the auto X put alot of stress on it. Sh*t, Loctite it again.

 

happened to me before when I used the wrong length of bolt onto the shaft. I wanted to replace the flat head cap screw with a regular hex bolt and turned out I got myself into a bigger mess.


anyways...I wouldnt recommend loctite.....because it is even wrose when you loctite it and strip the hex hole.

I use anti-seize and I torque it to at least 30 lb/ft.

 

You only need just a little bit of Loctite to keep the bolt from loosening. I've seen people <coughStillencough> use so much that it becomes impossible to remove the bolt. But even in that case, if you use some heat you can soften the Loctite to the point that it let's go real easy.

I'm using a hex head bolt for the pulley bolt because it makes it easy to check the bolt tightness. You do have to use one that's not too long, though!

 

A bolt is going to loosen because it isn't tight enough, not because you auto X. The loads on the pulley are transferred to the shaft via the shaft key, anyway, so the bolt load should remain constant. Thermal cycling can make the pulley creep off the shaft if the bolt isn't restraining it.

 

I remember putting a dap of loctite on it but it seems that it wasn't enough. Tear down tonight.

 

Hmmm. You did use a shaft key when you installed the pulley?

 

Wow. That's probably one of the tightest bolts on my setup. When I took off my 3.33", the bolt was initially stripped and it took not one, but two different blowtorches to get it off.

Least you noticed it now and not on a road trip to Seattle or something. *clunk thunk* What was that? Oh just your supercharger pulley.

 

No clunk thunk happening. Just a long and low metallic squeal because of the bolt contacting the pulley. The belts are still in alignment but very close to the side of the engine on the idler pulley. The side of the 3.33" is scraped to sh*t.
Yes I reused the shaft key.

I'm just wondering whether I should take off the mounting plate or just tighten the pulley bolt only? Definitely will retorque it to at least 30lbs.

 

Unless the grooved area of the pulley is damaged, just retighten the S/C pulley bolt... I would just put loctite on the countersunk surface... You may be able to do this without removing the bracket from the engine with a 90 degree allen.

 

I'm going to torpedoe the idea of getting another pulley for extra power. Just leaving the SC as it is. I hate not having the car due to the downtime, let alone the tear down. Besides, it'll take too long for Vortech to send me the pulley due to customs clearance.

 

you can stay in NA for a while until you received that pulley. you just need to put the bolts on the timing chain over back and run a smaller belt.

I would also get the 8:1 diaphram (if you havent gotten it yet) or adjustable FMU and S-AFC if I am going to get the 3.125.

 

Worked on the problem from 9:00pm~ish to 2:30am. Hardest part was hammering the 10mm wrench in just to be able to turn the bolt head.
Yep, I forgot to loctite the bolt that held down the pulley back in November.
Well, I'm going to order another pulley from Vortech unless one of you guys want to sell a pulley to me.
The pulley right now has a major scraping on the side and the outer rim edge is warped from my hammering.

 

any pix???????????????????

 

Yep, i do. Just haven't gotten around to resizing them.

 

send em or post so we can be on the look @ juss in case

 

I put them up on my cardomain site:

http://members.cardomain.com/blkcat

 

ouch, looks like some heavy damage on that pulley. well good luck on the new pulley.

 

SC kit installation and removal is much easier and faster if you don't bother using that bolt.

http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...57_21_full.jpg

 

both bolts #5 and 7? what other bolts can I leave off to make life easier?

 

Not both, just the one in the picture. I also don't run the hard to get to bolt down underneath by the oem idler pulley. Only takes me about 20 minutes to completely remove the kit.

 

okay, so that's bolt #5. That one is always a hassle for me when I remove the blower because it rubs against the black fuse box next to it.

As for that bolt next to the idler pulley I've read some postings that leaving it off causes the mounting plate to vibrate. I'd leave it off but I'm concerned about the loss of rigidity in the bottom part of the plate.

 

I skip bolts #5 and #18

 

I skipped #18 as well.

 

I was concerned about that at first, but in the nine months I've had the kit, I've never detected any buzzing of the bracket against the engine.

 

Ok, thanks guys for the info! I'll leave off those bolts as you have sugguested.
I've just placed an order for the 3.125" pulley and 8:1 kit so the next time the belt needs replacing I"m ready!

 

If I have a FMU, FPR, S-AFC and the blower goes how much will I have to take off to go NA? It looks like from your post that all I would have to do is take the SC belt off, then put the OEM Nissan pulley belts on. Would I have to mess with the fuel?

 

So what exactly you did to go NA( or if you HAD to go NA)?

 

From the response that I got it was take off the the SC belt and put an OEM belt on, as well as disconnect the charge pipe at the MAF and attach a filter. Iansw said somthing about keeping a 14mm ratchet in your car with an extension, as well as a spare belt. PM Ian and he should be able to tell you more.

 

If you are leaving the blower in place all you have to do is pull the blower belt up out of the way and install the oem belt. The engine will draw air through the non-rotating blower using the SC intake system.

If you have the blower removed, plug the end of the oil feed line and the oil return pipe, and install the oem belt. You will also have to rig up a temporary air filter. I did this with a maf adapter that bolts to the downstream end of the maf. I connected a pvc 45 degree elbow from Home Depot to the other end of the adapter, and then the filter that came with my prcai to the pvc elbow. This setup gets the filter between the radiator and the engine (hot air intake!).