well i finally got the JWT SC ECU and 370cc injectors to work in the car. i am just sooo relieved right now its amazing.

in case i didnt make it known...the problem i was having with the ecu and injectors was that the car would idle EXTREMELY rough and it would shoot a thick white gas 'fog' out of the tailpipe. it was so thick that it would immediately puddle right under the tailpipe.

this happened 3 different times i attempted to install this combo over the past couple months.

what finally made it click was after the last time i attempted to get this stuff to work...with my stock injectors and stock ecu in it did the SAME EXACT thing. (gas out the tailpipe...super rough) so i pulled the stock injectors and the 3 that i forgot to lube up the o-rings on were shredded.

so it dawned on me that i hadnt been lubing the 370s when i put them in. (even though each time i pulled them out the o-rings were flawless, which boggles me still) so i gave it one last ditch effort...this time remembering to lube the o-rings on the 370s...and thats right...it started right up and runs GREAT.

it is raining here...but even in the rain i know my car....and i can feel a great difference. so tomorrow i will get to feel the real WOT effects. just thought i would share since i am VERY happy to get this worked out. finally boost to 7k! finally i am tuned! i cant wait to get this on the dyno and see what she's made of.

thanks for reading. maybe this will help someone out in the future who has a similar problem.

--Paul

 

Woah! Nice to hear it worked out. Sometimes it's the little things.

 

nice work Paul...where and when are you gonna dyno next?? SRT??

 

what do you mean lube up the injectors? I am about to install 370s myself this wednesday, share some info please so I dont run into the same problem

 

Jay, some Vaseline is what I used. Or "light oil".
http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton...961CH05_7.HTML

 

Jeff I thought you were joking about the vaseline, but thanks for the info. Lube the O-rings, thats it?


Thanks for info Jeff.

 

yeah i used KY jelly

Jay...i just smeared the KY all around the upper and lower o-rings until they were nice and slippery.

--Paul

 

I had no idea that would make any difference at all. Thanks for sharing this enlightning bit of info with us...

 

Ooooh Yeah freak thats the reason why the car didnt start, you got engine oil and KY jelly mixed up Thanks for the info. Ill use some engine oil, I dont have KY lounging around, Ill check for vaseline since I used on my kids diaper rash one time. Now I just have to figure out how to use that Giant size Vortech SFMU which is twice the size a regular FMU

 

Awesome news Paul, got your voice mal too! I' so happy for ya! Jelous too!

 

What maf are you running? At 286 hp, you are just about at the limit for the A32 maf.

 

A32 MAF

i hope to put down 300+ ... the rating they say is 350bhp right? what happens if you go over? i guess i will find out if i do go over.

btw stephen -- i know you have the Z32 program so it might have its own...but any quirks with it that you could share with me?

--Paul

 

HA, That's great that u finally got it working Paul.

 

I'm not sure what happens if your SC is making more air flow than your maf can measure. This is probably a question best answered by JWT. I suspect the maf will not give a signal strength above a certain level, and so the ecu won't be aware of how much air is actually entering the engine. Then you would be lean. You may have to go to a SFMU or Cartech fmu to give you fuel based on boost pressure above a certain boost level. Tuning may be tricky.

The Z32 maf setup works pretty well, overall, but it seems pretty finicky about how the bov spring preload is set. I think I might have the maf too close to where the recirc hose is piped in between the maf and the blower inlet. I have an instrument that tells me what my injector duty cycle is, and I can see the first LED (corresponds to 10% duty cycle) light up whenever I let off the throttle. So there is evidently quite a bit of backflow through the maf from the recirculation circuit whenever I close the throttle. This makes for somewhat jumpy behavior at engine speeds above 3000 rpm, where the SC starts to make substantial air flow. This is probably not a problem with turbocharged Z's and Maximas since the turbo is not making much air flow at low throttle settings.

I made it behave a lot better after increasing the bov preload so that it does not open as much, but it's still not as smooth as a setup where you have the maf after the bov, like the normal 4th gen SC kit. I'm really tempted to put the maf after the bov and see how long it lasts, just for curiosity sake. I bought a J30 maf for very cheap off of ebay, so I have an extra maf I can use for experimenting with in case it does blow out. J30 mafs are the same as the Z32 maf, which is something not many people know, evidently, because they go for a lot less on ebay.

 

how close in between is it?? can't imagine there being much space over there between the maf and blower to begin with to plumb that line...I could have sworn I read somewhere that where the air is being recirc'd back to the system had to ba a certain distance from the MAF

 

I have the maf down inside the fender well, and I'm using a rubber elbow that is an OEM item for a Z32 to connect from the maf to the blower inlet. The rubber elbow has an opening for the recirc hose at a distance of about 7-8" from the end of the maf, so about 9-10" from the hot wire sensor.

 

ah, I see...then in that case it should be fine as far as positioning. hope you can get everything sorted out