slimer

iTrader: (13)

alright, here's the skinny.

i have had that s/c off and on so many times that i think i know it inside and out.

as y'all know, i got the new bracket from stillen.

a couple of pieces were reinforced, but it has the same shape and bolt pattern.

oh yeah, it doesn't. the stand off bolts are different lengths.

(btw im planning on leaving off this bolt)

if that is alright. suggestions?

So, if i torque the bolts to spec, the idler pulley becomes misaligned and tilted.

I ran the belt to double check what i think is happening. with the top half of the bracket mounted, everything looks fine. all the pulleys are in the right place, but there is about a 3 mm gap between the standoff bolts and the bracket.

I'm thinking if i put two washers on, it will fit the gap and i can torque it onto the crankcase.

after that, im done?

can anyone think of the problems with this?

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

leave it on. It might cause alignement problem if you take it off. That bolt doesnt add too much time on the removal of the SC. You just have to move the fuse box out of the way.

do you have that bolt installed? if you dont, put it back and see if it solve your belt problem.

slimer

iTrader: (13)

thats not the problem, its the stand off hex bolts

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

did you torque the bolts in the order stated on stillen instruction?

slimer

iTrader: (13)

yes, and what happened is that the bracket shifted and made the idler pulley become misaligned

JAY25

iTrader: (38)

there should be no gap between the stand off bolts and the motor. They should be seated all the way in. Thats my picture with my bolt not in there. I did not have alignment issues. If in fact the stand off bolts did not thread all the way in. Then they are the wrong ones. Do not try to thread them all the way into the timing chain cover or you will snap them. That 3mm gap should make you shoot the belt toward the motor since the belt will fall inwards. Is that the direction your belt shredded

slimer

iTrader: (13)

i spaced the bracket with two washers.

the stand off bolts are in the crankcase perfect.

the belt looks good, the cai is in, theres hood clearance for the bov

the water pump is connected

just a few things b4 i start her up

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

is there any gap on the M10 bolts (the bolt that holds the engine mount)? These two should be the last bolt that you torque down. if there's gap on the M10, I would add washer to these two because you can use larger washers.

since you've already added washer to the stand-off. I would carefully check the belt alignment before putting everything back. you can tension the belt to the spec, connect oil feed and return and crank up the engine few time. see where the belt lands after you crank it.


have fun.

slimer

iTrader: (13)

the m10 bolts are fine, all the rest of the bolts that go into the timing chain cover are fine, its just the two at the bottom that are a little different.

maybe they changed the length of the standoff bolts for the 5th gen bracket.

[maxi-overdose]

iTrader: (3)

the reason that I mentioned about the M10 bolts is because I thought the bracket does not perfectly fit on to the engine. It may look fine before you tighten the last two M10 bolts. but once you torque down the M10, it will make a gap on your stand-off.


could be. or that area on the 5th gen bracket is just a little bit thinner than that of the 4th gen.

slimer

iTrader: (13)

its cut out a little (probably to fit the different stand off bolts)