I had a dry NOS kit before the SC, so I know the in's and out's of how nitrous works.

Which would make more sense in a boosted application. Wet is great because it supplies extra fuel _with_ the nitrous (which IIRC is how Hal's setup works). However, with proper injectors (Z32) and tuning, you should be able to deliver plenty of fuel without needing a wet kit...so would a dry kit be better? I would assume its easier.

Also...with a dry kit I would think you'd need a AFC with 2 settings...boost only and boost + nitrous. With a wet kit I suppose that you wouldn't necessasrly need that if you provide the correct amount of fuel with the nitrous.

Just brainstorming.

 

wet is better hands down. Main reason is no need to upgrade injectors and 2ndly it helps to cool the cylinder temp a little.

Dixit

 

I could not have said it any better.

 

Eric the S-AFCII has two settings which you would want to use with either wet or dry.

Even with the more precision A/F mixture of the wet shot the S-AFC will still allow much more precise tuning, even the stock engine N/A can benefit from tuning the A/F.

 

how does wet cool the cylinder temp more than dry

 

^^ Exactly what i was thinking. The only difference between the 2 is where the fuel is coming from...

 

Wet is the only wany to go if you are boosted.

 

The fields has three settings.. Have one 4sale if your interested... see homepage

 

Yeah, but I've got an S-AFC I...I guess I'd need to upgrade. :/

Does NX offer a "cheater" type wet kit? Like a 5lb bottle? I'd only use this at the track...which is not often at all. I'd bet a 5lb bottle could almost last me a season.

 

Has anyone ran boost with a dry shot yet?

 

Let me know when you want to upgrade to a SAFC II? I just missed Golden glorys SAFC1 for sale I may take that one off your hands if your really serious about getting a 2.

 

Because atomized fuel and N2O are coming into the intake valve instead of just N2O. N2O by itself can cool the overall cylinder temp some, but combined with the fuel it drops more...

 

But does it really matter where the fuel is coming from?? A dry setup gets additional fuel also, just from the injectors. Am i missing something??

 

Maybe becuase the fuel is helping to cool the actual air coming into the intake valve also?

 

IIRC, it is the N2O that cools the charge air, not the fuel. The fuel just cools down the combustion temps. Which would mean the source of fuel is arbitrary...

 

wouldn't a dry shot+ boost be ALOT harder to tune than a wet.

 

Not sure...that's why I'm asking. I had no problems with my dry shot NA...but sold it when I got the boost.

 

seems as if it might not be as "hard" to tune running a dry shot/boost, but rather troublesome with alot more areas you'll have to "tune". I've always heard that a dry fogger kit+boost was a nono. Seems alot more simple with the wet kit route, with less troubles and worries, but this is all my opinion

 

Well, you're not realling adding a big shot of nitrous. Just a tad for the cooling. IIRC Matt added like a 30hp dry shot. You don't need to bump the fuel pressure with the nitrous kit, because you can do it with the AFC and FMU.

If I do this, I'm just going to get a wet kit though.

 

oh, didn't know you were just doing it for cooling.

 

Regardless of why you're adding it, if the N2O is going into the combustion chamber, then you have to add fuel to compensate...

Fuel is already hard enough to keep in check with the forced induction setup, so adding another taxing event to the injectors is just not a good idea IMHO. A wet kit eliminates all that worry...and there's no tuning involved (other than making sure you have the fuel setup to supprt the additional power). Tuning is done for you via the charts available.

 

I dynoed my 99 with stock pulley at 236 last October cold engine off the bottle and 254.7 on with ZEX Dry kit : jets at about a 35-40 shot range untuned...so I was pleased with the results.

 

YGPM