Learn from my mistake: Do not over tighten!
#1
Learn from my mistake: Do not over tighten!
Well as some of you may know I shreaded my SC belt last week. I tried all of Saturday to replace my stock belt. I planned to run with the stock belt until I could hook up with a local .org member to install the SC belt.
Anyway I finally got the belt on and I was excited. After running the engine for about 15 seconds i looked down at the idler pulley and saw that the nut holding it in place was undoing itself.
I quickly shut the engine off, before the nut flew off. I then TIGHTENED the nut with all my strength.. "Not going to come off this time" I said to myself....
Started the engine, everything running smooth then BOOOM
My engine is smoking, smoking!!! I shut if off, and it appears I over tighted the Idler pulley...
It MELTED ITSELF like a cube of butter in a frying pan!
I took pictures of the melted pulley, but I don't know how to post them (Anybody capable of hosting let me know). Anyway guys the lesson here is if they say Torque to spec, then make sure you torque to spec!
I am trying to get a replacement pulley from the local Nissan Dealership.
Anyway I finally got the belt on and I was excited. After running the engine for about 15 seconds i looked down at the idler pulley and saw that the nut holding it in place was undoing itself.
I quickly shut the engine off, before the nut flew off. I then TIGHTENED the nut with all my strength.. "Not going to come off this time" I said to myself....
Started the engine, everything running smooth then BOOOM
My engine is smoking, smoking!!! I shut if off, and it appears I over tighted the Idler pulley...
It MELTED ITSELF like a cube of butter in a frying pan!
I took pictures of the melted pulley, but I don't know how to post them (Anybody capable of hosting let me know). Anyway guys the lesson here is if they say Torque to spec, then make sure you torque to spec!
I am trying to get a replacement pulley from the local Nissan Dealership.
#4
Supposedly, even if you overtighten it a reasonable amount, the washers/spacers should keep the pulley/bearing from seizing... Make sure it (pulley) spins freely (at the torqued specs) before reloosing and making the adjustments to belt tension & subsequent retightening.
#7
Question,
I went to the Nissan dealership to purchase a replacement pulley. Well the Pulley they presented me with looks nothing like the one I took off the max.
The one from the dealership was a few inches larger, and made of metal.
The pulley I took off says "Fenner Drive" on it. Is that some kind of aftermarket pulley that was put on to accommodate the supercharger?
If so, where can I get a replacement?
I went to the Nissan dealership to purchase a replacement pulley. Well the Pulley they presented me with looks nothing like the one I took off the max.
The one from the dealership was a few inches larger, and made of metal.
The pulley I took off says "Fenner Drive" on it. Is that some kind of aftermarket pulley that was put on to accommodate the supercharger?
If so, where can I get a replacement?
#8
The sticky is your friend!
Jay25 wrote:
I pulled my metal pullies off and I got too clean happy and sprayed brake cleaner on them. Not realizing what I had done I had to go to NAPA and buy some new bearings because I just wiped off all the grease from inside the bearings. The ASP pulleys are also coated with some black chemical so just wipe them off with a rag and do not spray any chemicals on the pulleys themselves.
you can buy the ASP pulleys from this website and call the 800 number and speak to a gentleman by the name of Lee
www.aspracing.com/
the pulleys cost $65 a piece $130 shipped. Great pulley for the money they are also made of steel.
Order Toll-Free
1 877 928 8678
www.aspracing.com/
Jay25 wrote:
I pulled my metal pullies off and I got too clean happy and sprayed brake cleaner on them. Not realizing what I had done I had to go to NAPA and buy some new bearings because I just wiped off all the grease from inside the bearings. The ASP pulleys are also coated with some black chemical so just wipe them off with a rag and do not spray any chemicals on the pulleys themselves.
you can buy the ASP pulleys from this website and call the 800 number and speak to a gentleman by the name of Lee
www.aspracing.com/
the pulleys cost $65 a piece $130 shipped. Great pulley for the money they are also made of steel.
Order Toll-Free
1 877 928 8678
www.aspracing.com/
#9
Thank you for posting blackcat.
I checked the ASP site out. I think we have a misunderstanding, either i don't see it or you don't understand which pulley i am talking about.
I am refering to the IDLER PULLEY not the supercharger pulley itself.
The 3.6 vortech pulley is still in place.
My idler pulley (The pulley that you use to tension the belts) is burnt to a crisp. The one I took off is made by Fenner Drive. I called stillen but no response yet.
Any other ideas, or maybe i didn't look deep enough on th aspracing site?
I checked the ASP site out. I think we have a misunderstanding, either i don't see it or you don't understand which pulley i am talking about.
I am refering to the IDLER PULLEY not the supercharger pulley itself.
The 3.6 vortech pulley is still in place.
My idler pulley (The pulley that you use to tension the belts) is burnt to a crisp. The one I took off is made by Fenner Drive. I called stillen but no response yet.
Any other ideas, or maybe i didn't look deep enough on th aspracing site?
#10
ASP sells the replacement idler pullies for the V2 kit you have. call up ASP and tell them you have a Maxima with the V2 kit and you need the metal pullies. they will send you one railed and one non railed metal pullies. they are $65 a piece ($130/pair) and they should last you for the life of the blower.
the pulley that melted didnt have sides (rails) on it did it? it would be wise to change them both even though you only have one that is melted.
--Paul
the pulley that melted didnt have sides (rails) on it did it? it would be wise to change them both even though you only have one that is melted.
--Paul
#13
Originally Posted by DonSupreme
Thank you for posting blackcat.
I checked the ASP site out. I think we have a misunderstanding, either i don't see it or you don't understand which pulley i am talking about.
I am refering to the IDLER PULLEY not the supercharger pulley itself.
The 3.6 vortech pulley is still in place.
My idler pulley (The pulley that you use to tension the belts) is burnt to a crisp. The one I took off is made by Fenner Drive. I called stillen but no response yet.
Any other ideas, or maybe i didn't look deep enough on th aspracing site?
I checked the ASP site out. I think we have a misunderstanding, either i don't see it or you don't understand which pulley i am talking about.
I am refering to the IDLER PULLEY not the supercharger pulley itself.
The 3.6 vortech pulley is still in place.
My idler pulley (The pulley that you use to tension the belts) is burnt to a crisp. The one I took off is made by Fenner Drive. I called stillen but no response yet.
Any other ideas, or maybe i didn't look deep enough on th aspracing site?
Your other option is to get replacement plastic pulleys from Stillen but they'll charge you more.
#14
#15
For your V2:
FYI, if you get the idler pulley (one without rails) you will need the inner bushing from Stillen (about $3).
I think you are referring to the tensioner pulley (rails)....
Bearings are replaceable (IIRC: 6203ZZE):
If you need it FAST... you may have to get another "plastic" one from Stillen (if they have it in stock).
FYI, if you get the idler pulley (one without rails) you will need the inner bushing from Stillen (about $3).
I think you are referring to the tensioner pulley (rails)....
Bearings are replaceable (IIRC: 6203ZZE):
If you need it FAST... you may have to get another "plastic" one from Stillen (if they have it in stock).
#16
Hmmmm, nice one black cat. I checked that thread and now I wonder if I can get that dayco pulley from advanced auto parts to get me back on the road in the meanwhile.
I will give them a call but usually they sort the parts by cars, so i am going to have to get them to dig one up for the mix match!
I will give them a call but usually they sort the parts by cars, so i am going to have to get them to dig one up for the mix match!
#17
the dayco 76mm (advance auto) is the replacement for the IDLER pulley on the V1 kit. the v2 kit has much smaller ider pulley. if you need the railed one from stillen i have one here at my house. i was going to send it back cause i got it by mistake, but if you are willing to pay stillen's rediculous price for it then its all yours. it was $100.
so the pulley you burnt up is the TENSIONER pulley? the one with rails? the smooth (no rails) pulley is the IDLER pulley on the V2 kit? (just keeps alignment)
if that is the case...it is exactly opposite than the V1 kit. on the V1, the tensioner is smooth (no rails) and the idler is railed.
--Paul
so the pulley you burnt up is the TENSIONER pulley? the one with rails? the smooth (no rails) pulley is the IDLER pulley on the V2 kit? (just keeps alignment)
if that is the case...it is exactly opposite than the V1 kit. on the V1, the tensioner is smooth (no rails) and the idler is railed.
--Paul
#18
$100 dollars!! wooo.....
Why does everyone switch to the metal one. Is there some limitation or malfunction with the stillen plastic pulley? Do they all burn up like mine or something?
I guess its my tensioner pulley thats up in smoke (The one with rails).
paul let me think about it.
Any other local folks who maybe just changed to the metal pulley and have the plastic one laying around???
Why does everyone switch to the metal one. Is there some limitation or malfunction with the stillen plastic pulley? Do they all burn up like mine or something?
I guess its my tensioner pulley thats up in smoke (The one with rails).
paul let me think about it.
Any other local folks who maybe just changed to the metal pulley and have the plastic one laying around???
#19
I believe it was Cheston who suffered a melted pulley in the desert a couple of years back. Since that episode everyone wanted to find replacements before theirs melted. I still have my original plastic pulleys and they're in good condition because of my driving habits. At one time I thought they were melting until I found out that it was melted rubber from the belt.
The steel set I got from another member were quite nice but after a year and a bit of use the rolling surface started to deform from the belt.
The steel set I got from another member were quite nice but after a year and a bit of use the rolling surface started to deform from the belt.
#20
I finally got the pictures of the pulley on car domain.
Check it out....
http://www.cardomain.com/id/donsupreme
Check it out....
http://www.cardomain.com/id/donsupreme
#21
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (38)
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Near Archer High School, Ga
Posts: 6,451
Originally Posted by DonSupreme
I finally got the pictures of the pulley on car domain.
Check it out....
http://www.cardomain.com/id/donsupreme
Check it out....
http://www.cardomain.com/id/donsupreme
#22
The funny thing is that the belt is still in pretty good shape. Infact i am thinking of using the same belt, it barely has a scratch on it.
What do you mean by sinched down? I assume you just mean the belt was too tight or did i put too much tension on it?
What do you mean by sinched down? I assume you just mean the belt was too tight or did i put too much tension on it?
#23
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (38)
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Near Archer High School, Ga
Posts: 6,451
Originally Posted by DonSupreme
The funny thing is that the belt is still in pretty good shape. Infact i am thinking of using the same belt, it barely has a scratch on it.
What do you mean by sinched down? I assume you just mean the belt was too tight or did i put too much tension on it?
What do you mean by sinched down? I assume you just mean the belt was too tight or did i put too much tension on it?
#24
Originally Posted by BlackCat
I think you misunderstood me DonSupreme. Supercharger pulleys only come from Vortech. ASP makes pulleys that replace the plastic idler and tensioner pulleys from Stillen.
#25
Update for anyone who cares.
I finally got a replacement pulley from Paul (Requin6).
Thanks a lot Paul. I successfully installed the pulley and the stock belt.
The trick to not having a repeat episode was the belt tension. I was putting too much tension on the belt (via the golden nut)
I gave the belt enough room to twist 90 degrees and that did the trick! I drove around the block a few times... so far so good.
Now my MAF is still dead, so I need to get my hands on one.
I finally got a replacement pulley from Paul (Requin6).
Thanks a lot Paul. I successfully installed the pulley and the stock belt.
The trick to not having a repeat episode was the belt tension. I was putting too much tension on the belt (via the golden nut)
I gave the belt enough room to twist 90 degrees and that did the trick! I drove around the block a few times... so far so good.
Now my MAF is still dead, so I need to get my hands on one.
#26
Originally Posted by DonSupreme
Update for anyone who cares.
I finally got a replacement pulley from Paul (Requin6).
Thanks a lot Paul. I successfully installed the pulley and the stock belt.
The trick to not having a repeat episode was the belt tension. I was putting too much tension on the belt (via the golden nut)
I gave the belt enough room to twist 90 degrees and that did the trick! I drove around the block a few times... so far so good.
Now my MAF is still dead, so I need to get my hands on one.
I finally got a replacement pulley from Paul (Requin6).
Thanks a lot Paul. I successfully installed the pulley and the stock belt.
The trick to not having a repeat episode was the belt tension. I was putting too much tension on the belt (via the golden nut)
I gave the belt enough room to twist 90 degrees and that did the trick! I drove around the block a few times... so far so good.
Now my MAF is still dead, so I need to get my hands on one.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
litch
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
123
01-04-2024 07:01 PM