so i put 370s and a weapon r fpr in, and i went to the dyno to get tuned. i bumped up the boost to 8 psi and put 322.5 ftp torque and 300 hp at the wheels. and the dyno tech and i had a hard time leaning the car out. it was at 10.1 no matter what we did. both screws on the fpr and the cartech fmu were all the way out. then he found that the check valve on the bleeder hose was not letting any air pass in either direction. when he took the check valve out my vacume went from -19 to -14, but we were now able to lean out the fuel ratio to 11.5 i should have been happy right????

well no my maf wires had quick connections on them and they were slid on the pins of the maf. this was driving me crazy so i decided to get a maf connection plug from an extra wiring harness. and i swaped the maf wires by mistake? and i just kept on trying to find the correct wiring setup. then i firgured it out its the 12v on the "A" pin ground on the "B" pin and the 5v signal to the ecu is pin "c".....right?

now the car wont stay at idle, it just dies. its dumping fuel like crazy. and i was tuned perfectly before i messed with the maf. im cool when i push the throttle in, the fp is at 32 psi but at idle it jumps up to 40 psi on its own! it gotta be the maf doing this. do you guys think i messed up the maf??? the bov isnt leaking . and the maf voltage sensor check on the safc2 shows me at .1v when i try to idle i get 1.3v from the maf and 30psi of fuel with the vacume hose on the fpr. when the vacume is off the fpr i get -3 vacume at idle and 39psi of fuel.

can you guys please help?

 

to narrow down the source of the problem, remove the plug for the maf that you added and re-wire it how it was before. if it works, then good, you know the problem is in the plug. if it still doesnt work, try getting another maf from somewhere and swapping it - when you installed the plug you may have done something wrong and blew the maf. if it works with a new maf then just make sure you wire up the plug the right way and you will be alright. back to the situation where it works after re-wiring it the old way. if this is the case, then either you wired your plug incorrectly, or the wires/contacts on the plug are corroded. try getting a new plug or just replacing the wires/contacts on the existing plug (not hard - just go to pepboys and grab some wire and that little tool they have for plugs - you may even be able to get a generic plug so that your whole **** is new). this is all assuming that the car was working correctly and the only thing changed was that plug. if you messed with other parts of the car and dont rememeber - then the problem may very well reside elsewhere.

 

nah thats all i touched. i put the wires on without the plug and its the same problem. there is no corrosion at all. so i blew it then but i have no friends with maximas or z32's or j30's.......what about a sr20det maf?

 

nah the sr maf wont work - the only car it works on is a 89-91 ka i believe and vice versa. ill lend you my z32 maf if you want to come to my crib and get it. i cant drive anywhere cause im on restricted liscence bullsh*t.

edit: that is if you live anywhere close.

 

the beach is far from you i think

 

i fixed it!!!! i thought my 300zx maf was broke but it wasnt so i swapped it out with my stock maf and it WORKS!!! now is my tune gonna be richer or leaner it ws tuned for 11.5 on the stock maf

 

well its running real lean i have a lot of spark detonation....gotta go back to the dyno

 

Yeah, it should run leaner with the Z32 maf than with the A32 maf because the maf voltage will be lower, meaning the ECU thinks you are flowing less air, meaning the ecu in turn dump in less fuel, thus you would run lean.

 

yeah i was ......veeeerry lean. but im retuned now...again

 

This actually works with the ecu in closed loop since it using O2 sensor feedback to keep from going lean. Once you go WOT and open loop, then it goes lean.