DonSupreme

iTrader: (1)

My SC belt shredded about five months ago. I had complications getting the blower plate off to replace the belt. I was finally able to get the belt back on on Saturday, and after 3 days of driving the belt has shredded.

I have a V2 blower with aluminum plate and the plastic pulleys running the 3.6" pulley.

What exactly have you guys done to make your blower more reliable in the department of preventing belt shred.


AKA: How do I fix this dam alignment problem??

Blackcat I was told you may have the answer.

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

Hey, your from Beltsville. Shouldnt you know.
j/k, that sucks. Have you checked your pullies? Its that damnv2 bracket. I hear they can warp, how many miles are on the kit?

DonSupreme

iTrader: (1)

not sure exactly how many miles but I assume its over 20K.

My pullies are still operational. They are the plastic ones but they are still intact.

Any suggestions?

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

did you notice which way the belt was coming off, pulling in or out. i had the same problem a while back but a couple of washers took care of it. on the main pulley you may have to put some washers behind it to push the wheel out some more.

DonSupreme

iTrader: (1)

The belt was pulling away from the engine (to the left). Do you think some washers would help? If so, what guage washers, where to get them, and where do I put them.

BlackCat

iTrader: (6)

Hey Don
Since the belt moved away from the engine you definitely need some washers. The belt is trying to center itself on a natural and vertical plane while running around the pulleys.

The shop that installed my V2 used 3 very thin washers (paper thin) and stuck them on 3 of the posts between the mounting plate and the blower. I put one washer on each of the posts marked in red in the pic below:

That pushes the blower ever so slightly away from the engine and helped to realign the belt. The time I first took off the blower to swap out the 3.6" pulley for the 3.33" I did not note where these washers were placed. Logically I thought that they should have been on the 3 posts on the right side of the pic and my belt jumped and shredded. I rethought my logic and evenly distributed the washers instead and that did the trick.

As for the V2 mounting plate warping I've never heard of that happening in this forum. Its now 4 years since I've had the V2 kit.

When you've reinstalled everything run the engine for a short while and then turn off the engine. Take your flashlight and look down at the belt and check how they go around the pulleys. The belt should not be touching the side wall of the tensioner pulley but should be centered on both the idler and tensioner pulleys. If they look centered then you're good to go!

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

what blackcat said is correct but i think you can just try the pulley first put some washers behind the pulley wheel to push out the pulley. i got mine from autozone just big enough for the hole to fit thru the bolt. bring the pulley wheel out a little. also make sure the belt is tight enough because that will make it creep off also. the pulley is the main pulley not the s/c pulley. also if you can i would get the lexus metal pulley its wider which gives you more room to play with. the pulley supplied with the kit with the rails is a little harder to line up.

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

Good info blackcat.

BlackCat

iTrader: (6)

Then again, maybe the 3.6" pulley is loose and is starting to creep towards the engine?
Here's a pic of the time that happened to me:

It was a b#tch to move it off away from the mounting plate.
I've since learned to not reuse the #5 bolt (where that open end wrench is).

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

wow thats terrible but he said its creeping away from the engine that would pull it towards the engine. its gotta be the main pulley thats the only other thing thast aligns with the s/c itself. either way putting pulleys in either of these places should solve your propblem.

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

wow thats terrible but he said its creeping away from the engine that would pull it towards the engine. its gotta be the main pulley thats the only other thing thast aligns with the s/c itself. either way putting washers in either of these places should solve your propblem.

BlackCat

iTrader: (6)

Since the main pulley had moved away from the blower and was rubbing against the #5 bolt the belt would have wanted to stay on the same plane as the idler and tensioner pulley and so I can see the belt jumping a rib or two away from the engine while trying to stay in alignment. In my case it didn't happen and the screeching sound of metal on metal alerted me to the problem. Now if the #5 bolt wasn't there I think there could have been the possibility of the belt jumping a rib away from the engine.

DonSupreme

iTrader: (1)

So now i am confused. Should I follow the blackcat diagram or what?

Which pulley is called the Main pulley? The 3.6" s/c pulley, the idlers pulley, or the tensioner pulley?

Any recommendations on the dimensions of the washers?

Additionally, should the belt be 100% over the idler pulley or just half on it? Mine always seems to sit halfway on it.

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

once it comes off its really hard to determine what caused it because there are many possibilties.i for one i put the blower on, stayed under the car while a friend cranked it to see where it starts to come off and the rotation of the belt. now if the crank pulley is to far in it will slowly ride to the edge of the pulley or in some cases people forget to put the washer behind the pulley . if the s/c pulley lines up with the a/c and alt then its got to be the main pulley.the belt will pop off at the place of misalignment you just have to catch it before it comes off totally then work from there.

BlackCat

iTrader: (6)

You could try C_Max's suggestion first as that is the least drastic method. As to how much thickness a washer would be required I don't know. The idler pulley uses a M12 flat washer and the tensioner pulley doesn't have a washer but uses a spacer.

My belt sits right in the middle of the tensioner and idler pulleys.

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

i believe its the tensioner pulley the one you tighten the belt with. if your near a autozone they sell one size that will fit the bolt the washers very thin you can actually put a few i know i have at least 4 washers to compensate for my alignment. you have to do them one at a time until the belt lines up with the s/c. first make sure of the direction its pulling off. you either have to put some washers on( most likely) or take them off (probably not ) but i would just double check. it should be easy to tell if your right there when the engine is cranked. just make sure the person is alert so that he stops when you say stop prevent the belt from messing up. maybe a couple of times at this and you should get it. i figure 1/2 hr troubleshooting the most.

DonSupreme

iTrader: (1)

i never cranked it while under the engine, but I will try. I hope that the problem will become evident that quickly, because so far its taken some drive time to show itself.

I will you'll know how it turns out.

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

crank it and if it doesnt come off let it run while you watch it. if it doesnt come off while letting it run it might not be out of alignment it might be flexing somewhere. while its running rev it up a good couple times also to emulate engine speed that will surely make it come off if its out of aligment.

DonSupreme

iTrader: (1)

We'll see, when i put my belt on last night, I had to make several full throttle runs before it shredded. I pulled over and checked the belt after each run. It seemed fine the times I checked it, and before I could pull over it to check it the last time I SMELT THE RUBBER ahha....

matty

iTrader: (54)

To me it sounds like something is Flexing under boost and alowing the belt the shred....try reving it with a new belt and see what the belt looks like at it spins..if you have to sit there for 5 min reving it up, try and simulate like your taking a ride and boosting...

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

exactly i been there i know. stop killing your belts and your back make it happen without driving the car. what your doing is exactly how i became a installation expert i must have did that 4 times in one day and it drove me crazy. if its not coming off while idling or reving then its flexing. what screws are you missing?

BlackCat

iTrader: (6)

Just wondering if bolt #14 is on the mounting plate. That's the one with the allen key hole. Its found underneath the idler pulley. I heard that if its missing it can allow the plate to flex.

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

the p.i.t.a screw. i didnt have that one in also but when i paid jeff to help me he put it in so im not sure if that was a factor also.

BlackCat

iTrader: (6)

I finally got my hands on a 1/4 x 5/16th Box End offset ratchet from Canadian Tire. Taped the allen key nub from my Craftsman screwdriver and I was good to go!
This one in the pic is from Sears but in Canada Sears did not carry this tool until recently.

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

thats a good idea. another way i do it is to tape a allen wrench to a small pole and dont tighten the tensioner screws until you have that one in makes it a lot easier.

BlackCat

iTrader: (6)

I used to tape an Allen key to the top of my Craftsman screwdriver but it took too much time to put it in, turn, put it out, reposition, put it in, etc.
This box end ratchet really speeded up the process. I always put that bolt in first before any other bolt. I found out the hard way when that bolt didn't line up with the hole after putting in all of the other bolts. Now I need a box end ratchet for the bolt for the idler pulley.

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

that sound like a good idea i will try that this weekend when i put my s/c back in cause it is time consuming my way. i snapped my crank pulley and destroyed my engine last month beating up on meccanoble and a srt-4 in springvalley. the engine is completely rebuild from head to toe at about 8:5:1 compression. i had all the little things treated to prevent this from happening again.

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

I've never used that screw and never had a problem, but I've got a V1 bracket.

DonSupreme

iTrader: (1)

you snapped your CRANK PULLEY??? Oh god....
Didn't you just have a spark plug blow up on an engine before this one?

Why did you lower all the way to 8.5:1 for an SCer?

I also have thet craftsman tool, but I just put a hex socket into the rachet as suggested by Jay25.


I am trying to find a local org member with a V2 to help me do the reinstall. I can't crank the engine and look from underneath by myself. Plus it would be good to have someone who got their v2 working right.

P.S. I am not missing any bolts.... All the holes are filled.


Blackcat your inbox is filled up.....
I was going to ask if I can use the 3.33" pulley without shaving a post?

BlackCat

iTrader: (6)

I used a flat file to flatten the post more for the 3.33". I've burnt out my Dremel shaving off the entire post a few weekends ago in preparation for my 3.125".

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

what, i dont have a post anymore, i sanded that sucker all the way down when i had my 2.87 pulley now i have the 3.33. and don yes this is my second motor job in two months. the first time i detonated running 11lbs and 50 shot. i couldnt salvage my other engine block so i got one from the junkyard and redid the eternals but unfortunately the engine wasn't well taken care of because the crank broke under stress they said that engine had 43,000 miles. i have vinny ten working on it redid the block and bored it out a little plus had all those parts treated so i shouldn't have this problelm again. the compression is to run high boost with a high shot of nitrous eventually. when i ran meccanoble who was running 11lbs and mevi vs my 9lbs i pulled on him hard all the way to 140 plus. the engine felt real strong that night before the crank snapped. i just found out the engine wont be going in till mon then the s/c will go in sometime during the week and its off to the races again.

zMax1996

Which pulley is the MAIN pulley?

Having read all 30 posts it is as clear as mud to me. Currently my SC is in a box. I tried spacers, new anodized pullleys, belts etc. Finally I gave up. Not sure if I want to try again.

I never tried adjusting the crank pullley.

Again, which pulley is the MAIN?

Thanks

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

its the one you tighten the belt with it replaces the stock pulley that comes with the car. the other pulley is located on the s/c bracket itself. to properly align it you have to watch its rotation to see how the belt is revolving around the the pullies.

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

Most people call that the tensioner pulley.