95turbo gxe

iTrader: (25)

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Ok after i got done installing the intercooler last night I took a ride to the store and came back no major problems. Today one I got up I finished putting the bumper and corner lights back in. When you go to accelarate the car will
buck and performace is way down wether it is bucking of not. The bucking almost feels like a fuel cut does.(yes i know we have no such thing)It seems like the vacum is closer to 8 to 0 when try to drive normaly to mantain speed. When you floor it and boost kicks in it will keep bucking just as bad as not boosting. the bucking does not seem to buck as hard around 4500 to 5000 rmps. But the power is not their. The motor has 177lb per cylender so thats not the case and we have brand new plugs. I had to change the little black canister that is below the battery box, due to braking a vacum tip on it. DID I get a bad canister ? I replaced it last night when I got back. But I think that it has been doing this for a week or two just not as noticeble as now. I though it was the ecu pulling the timing under boost. But now it does it hard and under no boost. I check the ecu and it flashes code 33 but it has been flashing that one for time to time for a while now but dont know if the o2 would cause it to jerk like that .Any one have any ideas

subs1000w

is the black canister your talking about the carbon canister for emmisions. if it is you should just elminate it and plug all the nipples where the hoses go that will eliminate that posibility. i did this over a year ago and have had no problems

it also sounds like it could be your MAF acting up

95turbo gxe

iTrader: (25)

its the one that has a fuel line from the fuel tank going into and a purge and one other line . Its not the one on the stut tower weld.

Boosted Maxima

Strange that it was ok one night and not OK the next morning?
Double check all your lines to and from Intercooler. Sure sounds like some UNmetered air is going somewhere. Make sure your FPR is getting signal to your regulator. I re-located that Carbon canister to in front of the drivers tire area under the splash shield. You can plug it or the lines and be ok too. Definatly sounds like a MAF or air passing by hose/leak somthing of that sort. Can you see black smoke out the back (rich) or is it a falling on it's face feeling (lean) Read the plugs.. they will tell the story. What's your Fuel pressure at? or can you read that? Your going to find it being a fuel delivery or Air metering problem most likley.
Glad it's IC now! Were you driving it non IC for awhile? Got any Pic's? Send them to me if you do...
UR50SLO@aol.com
Talk to you soon, Scott

95turbo gxe

iTrader: (25)

hey ill send you some pics late or you can goto my cardomain just click on to the link in my sig. ok I cant find anyleaks no where I do not have fpr Im still on stock everthing My plugs seem to be a redish brown color.So what else

Boosted Maxima

Were the plugs new before the IC? or at the time of the intercooler install? I usto get a red color on my plugs because it was WAY TOO LEAN! Be carefull here. I was prity lucky! It idles good? What other symtoms have come up? Don't hear any vaccume leaks? Fill me in... e-mail me I'll check after dinner in a hour or so.
~Scott

hlh0501

iTrader: (1)

Where is your MAF located - where is your IAC line located?

What are you doing for fuel management?
Do you have a wideband to monitor a/f ratio?

95turbo gxe

iTrader: (25)

fuel nothing but factory system for right now. But it has ran fine for 2 weeks or so. Iac is located in the charge pipe, and the maf is before the turbo

subs1000w

have you tryed pulling codes from the ecu yet

do you have a spare maf to try out

have oyu looked at your plugs yet

do you have the pipe to go back to non intercooled to make sure theres no leaks

Boosted Maxima

Check: Timing belt!!!! You changed that in the last 60,000? Factory belt&Tensioner?
Check: Air leaks! no not the tires~
Check all fueses!
Like Subs said.. swap maf's with someone
Fuel pump puke? Check pressure! what's more check filter!
Check the basic's it's GOTA be one of them!
Scott~

95turbo gxe

iTrader: (25)

Hey I dont think its the timing belt It ran fine for 10 to15 miles a minute ago. And it idels farley well but just does not have power and back fires and jumps and bucks. Also I change the coil but it did not help and I unpluged the o2 and still no help.So far I cant find any other leaks. It is throwing code 22 33 and it threw code 21 one time.I reset it and it just throws code 22 33 but it did thow the 21 so maybe something is wrong on the firing im going to change the modual next. Then I may try to go back to non intercooled and see what happens.

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

MAF???????

subs1000w

the only 2 things i would check are

air leak

you say you checked but how do you test for an air leak without being on a dyno because thats the only way you could be in boost siting still looking under the hood

check maf

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

I have had bucking problems when reconnecting the maf after driving n/a then going FI. TRy with the ignition on unplugging the maf then turn the car off. Turn the ignition back on , plug the maf back in (maybe try turning car back off ) and start the car. Go for a easy cruise for about 3 miles and things should come back to life. It sounds really retarded but thats what I had to do. Car had little power then at 4k it would just cut like it was the fuel and then go to 5k or so and die off.

95turbo gxe

iTrader: (25)

Ok the turbo im using is leaking oil into the intake. I have a new one on the way.So if I had some type of leak it would have some oil showing around the leak. But here is a big problem I could not check the timing to day so i tryed some other things like new plugs no help took off the dirty air filter no help. I tested the compression on every cylender and two weeks ago I had like 177 to 180 on each cylender and now I only have like 120 to 130 SO im thinking it has jump a tooth.So tommorow I will hunt up a timing light and try to get that check.Mtcookson said he thinks that if every cylender is down like that more than likely it has jump time.I though it was kinda weird too to have every cylender down so quick. So if any one has any other imput please let me know!

Morfeus17

Yes!!! The infamous bucking!!! This may be MAF... But I had this problem also.. Not sure on how much boost your pushing, but my issue was plug gapping... Under boost or near to it, the air pressure would out the plugs... So gapping is crucial.

Another oversight on my part was, loose plugs. There were cases when my plugs became loose over time... I guess if not tighten properly the compession will push your plugs back... May want to look into this also. I suggest using teflon tape over the plug threading... This should keep it snugged.

Finally, you may want to check on the heat range of your plugs.. If the plugs run to hot under adverse driving conditions it will affect your spark... May wanna go 2 step colder...

Also, keep in mind that gapping size will change as the plugs are being used... But since you used new ones its not an issue.

slimer

iTrader: (13)

when my inline wasn't clicking on, we regapped and it was able to pick up an extra 500 rpms.

make sure that you have enough fuel. It sounds like you are running way too lean.

Boosted Maxima

I'm still betting on air metering problem (leak,MAF,somthing hooked up wrong) or timing belt.
Give us a update!
~Scott

95turbo gxe

iTrader: (25)

Ok this has seemed to fix it. I took the maf off and blew it out and drove it with no filter for like 5 miles and then put it back on and hasnt done it since.Ok so something was more than likey the maf. Still got to get to the timing issue or see why I dont have the right power.

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

Those maf can be tricky

Boosted Maxima

So, No popping or bucking but lack of power? You said oil is getting into the intake. What return line are you using to get the oil back to the pan? What size? -10? That's about the minimum I'd use for the return! If your using somthing smaller Change that line before assuming the turbo's bad. A small return line will not allow the oil to get back to the pan fast enough and also flood the turbo seals (even good ones) and let oil leak into the compressor side/exhaust side!!!!!
~Scott

95turbo gxe

iTrader: (25)

hey Im using a 3/4 hose. Ok well got timing checked today.I rechecked the compression and its seems to be the gauge that I use the other day is wrong. Iuse the one that i always use today and I still got 180 like always. Ok when reading the plugs it reads lean for all cylenders except for 5. It was black on one side of the plug and white on the other.Whats up with that? Ok on the timing If you are standing on the passenger side tire side looking at the front of the motor. Ok it seems to be set at 18 to 20 degrees. Iv never changed the timing so Im not sure how its there. Ok the car seems to have Almost (Maybe)the normaly power now not under boost but when under boost it just dont hit the same with the power.Ok I also no that the power is not what it once was and the car seem to rev up a little slow in park or nutral. What up with cylender #5?

subs1000w

i still dont understand why your boosting so much on the stock fuel system your probobly running really really lean at 7psi with tiny 180cc injectors

ha ha but you know what the say LEANERS MEANER

for all we know you could have blown up the #5 cylinder from to much detonation althought i hope its not that

get the A/F right and then look into why your not getting the right amount of power

Boosted Maxima

Your not getting the power because your not supplying the fuel!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Spend the 100.00 and buy the 225L HR Fuel pump TODAY!!!! You just pull the back seat and access through the panel there. 30min job tops. DO IT NOW.. oh am I being a little forward?
Anyway.. Close off that Intake Tuneing Valve Take the rod off and Shut it! That stock manifold with boost and the ITV hooked up swirls air around and over boosts some cyl and underboosts others. With it shut all is even and good. That'll cure the over boosting the other cyl and the #5 cyl is the only one that's close to being right!
To run 7psi I've gota have my fuel pressure at 60PSI AT IDLE!!!!!!! and it's still not enough fuel above 4000 RPM. Why do you think I've been trying so hard to get Live Edit up and running so I can change the Inj to 370's??????
As I have been down this road and luckly my 198,000mi engine survived it's still possible to hurt them with out fuel.
Your timing sounds about right. I believe I'm at 18deg too. (at idle)
~Scott

95turbo gxe

iTrader: (25)

ok I see what you are saying but I once had power under boost better than what I have now. Im still planning on doing all the upgrades but money sees a little tight right now. But wondering why its not their and it was two weeks ago. Also cylender #5 is the one that one side of the plug that is black and one side is white!

subs1000w

i would swap the #5 plug with a different cylinder to and see if the same thing happens to that plug

just spend the 100 buck on a walbro and 50 on a used vortec fmu and be done with it. its alot safer to be to rich than to be to lean

Boosted Maxima

IF all the other plugs are a redish tone and the #5 is black on one side and white on the other then all the other plugs BUT #5 are LEAN!

#5 is still getting lean in the upper RPM's (black) but White says it's kinda close everywhere else but still lean!
Now.. with the stock Fuel Pump and filter It's possible that in the first few weeks it was ok as you keep driving it's going to put more stress on it trying to keep up with the demands of the extra air your forcing in.. Keep the fuel octane up! 93or better.
~Scott
And close that darn ITV!!!!!