get yourself a water injection kit and run more psi on pump gas. Fill it with a water alcohol mix and lower you intake temps you can get away with more boost. You guys running big boost will need to richen the fuel mix a bit.

 

The water/alcohol injection isnt the only thing big daddy. Get a J&S Safegaurd and you can run insane amount of boost. Yes the water/alcohol injection helps, but it only helps to a point to lower your intake temps and help with detonation. The key in running high boost in a maxima is timing retard, simple put.

Dixit

 

thanks for the info i read up on that knock guard. I just wante to help anyone trying to get a few more psi out of their car. My computer retards timing as the boost increases, and i don't run the stock base timing.

 

question is your z06 boosted?

 

water injection is fun and all, but it is not a cure all. you still have to tune.

 

No I went the NA route on this one, aiming for about 450-475whp NA when Im done in a few months. Right now pushing about 420whp. Stock heads and Block, just larger cam, full long tube headers to exhaust.

Dixit

 

SCC did a big article about running water inj on their turbo ser. It acts like an IC plus it cleans the combustion chamber with the resulting vapor that's formed. You will have a lower psi as the water vaporizes and absorbs the heat, the charged psi contracts (as it cools). The reason why SCC ran it was to be able to run lower octane (ie.. 91) safely. I do believe they had to lean out their a/f and not richen it.

What car do you have that you have an adj timing? Maxima??

 

i retarded my base timing a bit, and the jim wolf ecu retards timing automatically as the boost increases.

 

The JWT ecu does NOT automatically retard timing as boost increases. Its a preset map that YOU have to tell JWT what turbo you are using, how much boost you want to run, etc. If you had the entire map set to 10psi and you are now running 18psi, your entire map is now worthless. No stock maxima can "automatically" retard timing with boost because the Maxima was never a boosted car. The ECU does not read boost with the ignition map. Only cars that have that ability are cars that have boost from factory like the Evo's, WRXs, etc. Only way for us to do it is using a piggy module/controller such as the J&S.

If you are going from 10psi to 18psi and then to 26psi as your other post shows, I really hope you know what your doing because without a J&S I dont know what you are doing. You cannot just slap a boost controller on there and say "my motor handled 26psi today", was that before or after the rod when flying through the hood?

Dixit

 

The main effect water injection has is to slow the burn rate of the fuel charge after ignition. This results in lower peak cylinder pressure that occurs later. Since the peak cylinder pressure is lower, cylinder temperature is lower and detonation is inhibited. The effect is the same as retarding timing.

The cooling effect of the water is really only incidental and has a much smaller effect, although it is still good to have.

 

wow is that all you wrote quake? I think everybody knows that.

 

big dog reply: this is what i was told by ben back when i ordered the computer. I know the maxima never came from the factory turbo. But he could be using another parameter to do this, like in relation to the mass air voltage. As for the motor very strong and it's not a fluke. Ben told me i could see about 10psi tops (at the time) this was about 3 years ago. I had acess to a 3bay garage, tools, and i don't have to pay anybody labor. As for engines i was swapping heads, blocks, what ever i did not blow to keep going. So i did not care= nothing to loose but 1-2 days to install another motor. Did i blow some hell yes... but each time i figured out why and came back a little stronger with more psi. Now this current moter started out with 60k on it i have had it now for almost 3 years. I push 15-18psi every day on pump gas and it don't even burn oil. I recently moved to florida i drove 3000 miles to get there, motor was fine. Then i moved back to R.i. another 3000miles. As for blowing motors never seen a snaped rod!!! I have seen cooked pistons, melted valves , knocking bottom end, the car never left me stranded anywhere from a blown motor, i even drove back from new hampshire with a blown head gasket.

 

the timing retard is probobly done through MAF voltage like you guessed but the problem is that you maxed out the stock MAF along time ago. i believe its maxed around 300whp

you should really go to 550cc injectors and a Z32 300zx MAF and have jwt reprogram your ecu again, that would at least support 400whp safely

other recommendations would be to get wide band O2 to monitor A/F accuratly, your auto meter gauge is absolutly worthless as far as anyone with a REAL brain is concerned. and a J&S safegaurde to eleminate blowing motors do to detonation which sounds like most if not all of your engines have dyed of, not to mention your current engine proboly is seeing its fair shair of detination with your current setup

 

Didnt know RI to Florida was 3000miles.

 

its 1350 from providence to tampa

maybe he ment round trip

 

I think we've seen enough here.. Thanks for the info guys