Just wondering what parameters the cold start program changes, as my car has none, and the car is virtually impossible to start when the temp is <35*F. The battery dies before the car starts. Warmer weather it starts up almost immediately. If I jump the car I can eventually get it started, but it takes longer than my battery can handle. The car has stock ECU, no emissions equipment so it's running in limp mode I'm sure, 370cc z32 injectors and a z32maf, with emanage controlling.

 

firstly, get a battery with a stronger cca - cold cranking amps. secondly, the only parameters changed as far as i know is a higher idle to bring it to operating temperature as quickly as possible.

 

are you sure your battery isn't just weak? what kind of battery? cold weather will do that, and cranking in the cold will kill a weak battery really quick since the coils demand so much voltage to start.

cold start programs just dump extra fuel to aid in starting on those cold mornings. I know some cars use an OEM cold start valve that works off the ECT(and starter solenoid of course), so when coolant temp is low more fuel is dumped as you crank. saw a few examples a couple weeks ago in class. not sure how this comes into play with larger injectors though??

 

yeah, I've seen Hondas do that...my integra idles at 2500 sometimes on the cold mornings.

 

Well the battery is sufficient to turn the car over as normal for at least 20-30 seconds straight when it's cold out, it's just that I can't get the car started in that timeframe when its really cold. It takes a little bit of gas pedal modulation while cranking to get the car to start when its cold out, which is why I figured it is something to do with the ECU and not the battery, because the battery can turn it over for quite a while.

 

When I dumped the 370's in my Maxima it was way too rich everywhere. Bernard told me that the Z32MAF will scale back the fuel quite a bit!

Now.. When Bernard set up the program for my car to run off the Romulator We used the stock Maxima fuel tables modified only by changing injector size and a few other small changes. I notice that cold or hot my idle is very lean 15-19-1 on my wideband. If I put on the Z32 maf and did not change anything to compensate for that in the programming I bet it would not start too!!!! I get a very slight lean pop while idleing (only I could proably hear it) but as soon as your off idle to wide open it's great. I bet if you changed the settings in the ecu with a romulator to tell it it has the 370's and the Z32 it'd fix the problem.
Bernard.. Your thoughts?
~Scott

Get a Romulator and come down to my place.. We'll get it working and you'll be set! Your only about 45min from me!

 

The ecu adds fuel based on temp, then cuts it out based on time and temp. It also adds fuel for the startup based on time. Is the car coughing black smoke when you finally get it going?
You can romtune that ecu with a daughterboard from plms developments. I think you'd need two romulators to use Live edit. PLMS also has software available to view ecu's input/outputs in realtime. I'll help you guys out in anyway I can if you choose to tune the ecu.

 

Hey Bernardd, how can we know if the 5th gen ECU could use a Romulator/Live Edit?

 

Thankyou for the info guys. Boosted I would like to get together some time with another boosted maxima owner. Maybe we can do this some time soon.

 

Nealoc.. Anytime! Here's my Cell (502)644-4759 Call me any time If I don't answer just leave me a voice message and I'll get back to you that day. We'll setup a time and I'll give you directions to the shop. It's about 45min or so from Kzoo. We go right by there to head up to Martin for racing in the summer.. We've always said.. if you can pass Tech at Martin.. you can pass Tech anywhere. I've only been kicked out twice.. Both times with the Small block S-10 on the bottle. Have to tell you the story ..
~Scott

 

The ecu needs to have an eprom. I don't think the 5th gen does. You could swap to an older ecu but the sensors have to match up. I would think that any ecu with the blue connector like a z32 connector or like the 89 max (others may be the same) would make the swap to an older ecu very easy. Just move some wires around and start tuning. Once my camry is successfully murdered that's while I'll be doing.