Supercharged/Turbocharged The increase in air/fuel pressure above atmospheric pressure in the intake system caused by the action of a supercharger or turbocharger attached to an engine.

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Old 02-09-2005, 12:32 PM
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Back on the road!!!!!

Ok... Got it going yesterday..> Fired right up on the first turn. Purged the coolant .. toped it off ect..> It took over 20 miles to clear all the excess coolant from the muffler and pipes.. What a mess. Anyway... Right from the start I could tell somthing was different. It Idled Rock Solid.
I mean to the point that a glass of water would bairly shake. I could even turn it down under 500rpm and still get the same result. The guy In India reported the same thing.. very very achieveable low idle so much that you could count the (fan) blades on a cooling fan turn. I've got the same thing....

I turned down the boost for now.. 8-9lbs... Going to chill on making lots of power for a little while... Too much of a daily driver to hurt it again.. Need a knock gauge anyway before pushing it again.
I'm betting it was just old gaskets.
My plugs today all looked very clean... almost like right out of the box. I'm not beating on it but got on it a few times.
Still need timing to be setup where it was. and play with live edit somemore.

I changed so many things it's hard to tell what helped the most.
Maby the gaskets were leaking from the begining? New/
Maby the injectors were a factor? Cleaned/flowed
Maby the injector clips were part of the problem? Corroded/green
Maby the intake manifold was it? Redesiged the plenum Totaly.
Maby the Were trashed but they looked good but with a fresh valve job help this much?
So many questions but for now it's running better than it has since I bought it and definatly better since I've boosted it.
A improvement for sure no matter what way to look at it.
~Scott
Anyone needing Injectors Cleaned and flowed got to www.witchhunter.com
They did a AWSOME job on my injectors.. flow sheets and new everything for 12.00 a injector. Plus he was one hell of a nice guy!

Oh.. Ps... Note to self and others with 3gens.. there's a 4wire connector on the drivers side that go's to injectors 2,4&6... Don't mix it with the 4wire connector that go's to the tranny .. it causes great grevences and annoyances.
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Old 02-09-2005, 01:00 PM
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it always nice to here you did all that work and it seems to of helped alot thats just what i wanted to here

now when you feel comfortable crank up that boost and see what it can do
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Old 02-09-2005, 01:22 PM
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Awesome! I'm glad you got it going again, sounds like it's running perfectly. I'm gonna have to see your car in action sometime soon.
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Old 02-09-2005, 03:33 PM
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I need some injectors cleaned.

Did you pay with PayPal?
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Old 02-09-2005, 04:10 PM
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great scott! now i have to drive down and see how it runs!
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Old 02-09-2005, 07:03 PM
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Scott: If you have Live Edit working on your laptop, you can press s and save the map (you'll have to name it). Press L and you can load maps that you've configured to test. I 've also found a pile of maps with warm up functions, idle timing, warm up timing, and some others that haven't been tested for effect such as accel enrich factors to scale the entire accel enrichment. Have you changed the maf yet?
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Old 02-10-2005, 08:21 AM
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Cool....

Ice... Yes you can pay with Paypal....

Slimer,Brad.... Glad to anytime.. now

Subs... I'll get back to that point of increasing boost.. I'm just so happy it's back running.. I'd forgotten how much I realy like driving it.

Bernard... No I haven't got the new MAF in there yet.. It's sitting on the pass. side floor board. I've got your last e-mail about how to install it but will proably need more help if its not going to be just a "click" on Z32 MAF and go kinda deal. IF you've found more options on Live Edit.. COOL...

Set the fuel press. last night back down to 28psi and the o2's are back to normal... The open Manifold seems to help drivabilty all across the RPM range so far.. I"ll keep reading plugs and Wideband.. Need a Knock Gauge next...
~Scott
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Old 02-10-2005, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Boosted Maxima
Oh.. Ps... Note to self and others with 3gens.. there's a 4wire connector on the drivers side that go's to injectors 2,4&6... Don't mix it with the 4wire connector that go's to the tranny .. it causes great grevences and annoyances.
i did that before... couldn't figure out for the life of me why the hell my car was so slow... then i figured out i was only running on 3 cylinders...
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Old 02-10-2005, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Boosted Maxima
Set the fuel press. last night back down to 28psi and the o2's are back to normal...
28psi at idle? My stock idle fp was ~43 psi. Do the 370's compensate for you?
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Old 02-10-2005, 10:29 AM
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hmm... stock fuel pressure should be in the 30's for the vg... not sure if its the same for the ve. wot fuel pressure on a vg stock should be 43. if its the same for the ve then there could be a chance the hose going to your fpr is leaking or something.
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Old 02-10-2005, 10:31 AM
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Stock fuel pressure with stock fuel pump on 4th/5th gens. is 34psi at idle and 43psi at WOT.
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Old 02-10-2005, 10:36 AM
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i think he turned it down to compensate for the 370's
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Old 02-10-2005, 11:27 AM
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I know, I was responding to Brad, but I didn't know what other gens run....
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Old 02-10-2005, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by mtcookson
hmm... stock fuel pressure should be in the 30's for the vg... not sure if its the same for the ve. wot fuel pressure on a vg stock should be 43. if its the same for the ve then there could be a chance the hose going to your fpr is leaking or something.
No leaks, I've turned down my fp to ~38psi and have my cartech compensating for that at WOT. Kind of strange that the ve has such high idle fp while all the other maximas have fp in the 30's.
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Old 02-11-2005, 12:41 PM
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Fuel Pressure: i could go up in pressure and back down my fuel tables in Live Edit but I don't think it would help anything. The Injectors were tested and cleaned/flowed at 30psi and the 300's are in the 28-34psi range at idle so I'm prity close to where it needs to be.

Mark: I also had another weird thing come up on that same plug that go's the the Manual tranny... The blue&white and blue and red wires have somthing to do with startup. It would not have spark yesterday when cranking! Then when I'd let off the key it'd start.. Check'd grounds hots relays.. Swap'd out the dist. on my parts car.. I finaly traced it down to that 4 wire connector that go's down on the 5spd tranny!
WTF is that damn thing for? I was guessing the reverse lights but it'd definatly got somthing to do with spark/fuel too. I ended up hooking the blue/red blue/white wire together and it solved the problem. What a pain! Now it's like it was bairly bump the key and it's running.
I dumped in another file into the ECU yesterday thinking that might be it.. but it wasn't. I liked the file I had in there so I'm switching back. And that one needs some more work on some areas... Fuel&timing.. all of is done on live edit.
~Scott
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Old 02-11-2005, 01:26 PM
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that sensor is for the reverse light and for a neutral signal. not sure if there is anything else that it triggers and whatnot.
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Old 02-12-2005, 09:20 AM
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Thats great scott. Cant wait till you get it all right and hit the track and dyno.
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Old 02-13-2005, 01:20 PM
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Been a few days since my electrical de-buging. All seems well again. I'm using a older fuel&timing settings from live edit. What I'm trying to focus on right now is getting the non boosted drivabity perfect. It's still rich under wot and even under boost with partial throttle according to the WBO2. Other than re-tuneing for all the changes I've made it's better than normal. Getting darn close to 200,000mi now which was my goal to begin with!
~Scott
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Old 02-13-2005, 01:58 PM
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Build a couple of fuel maps with the columns set to 127 (full rich). Start with the middle of the map column. Do a wot run. Log maf voltage/boost/rpm etc to note when you hit the rich column part of the fuel table. Set the next column to the right to full rich. (Make damn sure you're not going over 127) Repeat until you've reached the far right of the fuel map. This will tell you:
where to tune for wot
if your tp scalers are set properly
by logging the maf voltage you'll know if the maf is maxed out.

Repeat tests with part throttle runs. That should nail down fairly quickly where you need to make changes.
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Old 02-15-2005, 03:41 AM
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Thanks!

I'll need to call you again here soon. I thought I was deleting some old versions of Live edit but I think I deleted some info we made changes on and I'm getting the errors again
I realy need to get it up and running on the laptop. I'll get that going next week some time.
Thanks again,
Scott~
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