Anybody try these exhaust butt joint clamps?
#1
Anybody try these exhaust butt joint clamps?
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...4&autoview=sku
I order 2 of them, I figured it'd be worth a shot. It they work out, I'll l et yall know.
has anyone tried these?
I order 2 of them, I figured it'd be worth a shot. It they work out, I'll l et yall know.
has anyone tried these?
#7
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Doesn't look like they would seal very well. If you want good sealing w/o using leaky arsed flanges, use either ball joint flanges or v-band clamp systems. But let me know if these work out.
#8
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Doesn't look like they would seal very well. If you want good sealing w/o using leaky arsed flanges, use either ball joint flanges or v-band clamp systems. But let me know if these work out.
I could not find ball joints that were 2.5 in and 2.5 out ... and the guy at summit SWORE by them
We will see. I am even going to attempt it for the header to see if it can stand the that. I have to call dynomax monday to get a temp range on them
Mike- Same thing..Let me know how yours work.. I will be fitting them in the next week or so and then testing them in 3-4 weeks.. depending on my pipes
#9
I had that style on my pfi kit..... the reason i ended up welding the two pipes together was that the clamp could never get tight enough. The pipe fell off while i was driving - 3 freaking times.
#10
I hope I can find one of these cheap knock offs at the auto parts store tomorrow. I have to be able to remove my muffler easily at the track. And right now, I have a cheap coupler with the U shaped heavy duty clamps. Since it crimps my piping, it's dang near impossible to remove without cutting the coupler.
#11
Originally Posted by seximagtr
I had that style on my pfi kit..... the reason i ended up welding the two pipes together was that the clamp could never get tight enough. The pipe fell off while i was driving - 3 freaking times.
That sucks.. I hope these are beter
#12
Originally Posted by seximagtr
I had that style on my pfi kit..... the reason i ended up welding the two pipes together was that the clamp could never get tight enough. The pipe fell off while i was driving - 3 freaking times.
#14
Originally Posted by seximagtr
basically a lap joint - minus the ridge inside that is seperates the two differently sized portions of the clamp.
Sorry....clarify for me. The pipes that you were trying to connect, did the over lap on top of each other or just but together?
#15
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
Sorry....clarify for me. The pipes that you were trying to connect, did the over lap on top of each other or just but together?
With this strap, I will easily be able to disconnect my pipes in my exhaust. I have been using an auto zone coupler and normal exhaust clamps. That crimps the pipe and makes it very hard to remove once it's crimped down. Plus, you need a tail pipe expander and it gets to be a pain. These strap couplers sound like the answer for me.
#16
well I just got off the phone with dynomax, they are claiming that since this is SS, it can be used to attach header pipes to one another.
I'll be testing that theroy. My EGT's have been ~800 deg c
I'll be testing that theroy. My EGT's have been ~800 deg c
#17
been meaning to update this thread. These style clamps http://static.summitracing.com/globa.../wlk-33226.jpg are not air tight. I am getting a decent size exhaust leak at both places I am using them. I have them as tight as they will go.
#19
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
been meaning to update this thread. These style clamps http://static.summitracing.com/globa.../wlk-33226.jpg are not air tight. I am getting a decent size exhaust leak at both places I am using them. I have them as tight as they will go.
As a matter of fact, the OD of my stock Bpipe, just before the muffler, is 2.125". I found a cheap exhaust coupling at Pep Boys with an ID of 2.125" and an OD of 2.25". These are exact measurements. So I cut the coupler from Pep Boys the long ways so that is looks like a "C". I used this to shim it up. Now, I strapped on the 2.25" Dynomax coupler from Summit and it worked GREAT! I was very surprised. So my advice, make sure you have the EXACT size and it will work. From studying the product visually, it won't seal 100% if you have a pipe with an OD of 2.3" or 2.2" (considering you have a 2.25" coupler). So find a way to shim it up and it will work great.
#20
Originally Posted by Aaron92SE
I forgot to add my experience with these. I think they work GREAT! I've unbolted my muffler a couple times since I got it and it seals great. Just get out your vernier caliper and make sure you are trying to butt two pipes that are EXACTLY 2.25" in OD. I got the 2 1/4" strap coupler.
As a matter of fact, the OD of my stock Bpipe, just before the muffler, is 2.125". I found a cheap exhaust coupling at Pep Boys with an ID of 2.125" and an OD of 2.25". These are exact measurements. So I cut the coupler from Pep Boys the long ways so that is looks like a "C". I used this to shim it up. Now, I strapped on the 2.25" Dynomax coupler from Summit and it worked GREAT! I was very surprised. So my advice, make sure you have the EXACT size and it will work. From studying the product visually, it won't seal 100% if you have a pipe with an OD of 2.3" or 2.2" (considering you have a 2.25" coupler). So find a way to shim it up and it will work great.
As a matter of fact, the OD of my stock Bpipe, just before the muffler, is 2.125". I found a cheap exhaust coupling at Pep Boys with an ID of 2.125" and an OD of 2.25". These are exact measurements. So I cut the coupler from Pep Boys the long ways so that is looks like a "C". I used this to shim it up. Now, I strapped on the 2.25" Dynomax coupler from Summit and it worked GREAT! I was very surprised. So my advice, make sure you have the EXACT size and it will work. From studying the product visually, it won't seal 100% if you have a pipe with an OD of 2.3" or 2.2" (considering you have a 2.25" coupler). So find a way to shim it up and it will work great.
#21
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
Sounds like you are using butt joints, but I am using lap joints.
#23
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
Sounds like you are using butt joints, but I am using lap joints.
#24
Originally Posted by subs1000w
did you guys use any high temp rtv on the clamp that might help stop the leak
i know lots of people using hightemp copper rtv for all sorts of exhaust flanges and even header gaskets with great succes
i know lots of people using hightemp copper rtv for all sorts of exhaust flanges and even header gaskets with great succes
#25
Originally Posted by DanNY
copper RTV works with a gasket or something....but if it has direct exhaust pressure on it then it'll blow out.
I sealed my header gaskets on the mustang with high temp copper rtv. Leak free since 2003
#28
Originally Posted by MrGone
yeap
I sealed my header gaskets on the mustang with high temp copper rtv. Leak free since 2003
I sealed my header gaskets on the mustang with high temp copper rtv. Leak free since 2003
#31
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Oops. Bags, I mean Bags... what's up? hehe
I have yet to use them.. house projects are kicking my a$$..
I was going to not use them and just weld after what mike said.
#32
Originally Posted by Bags
I have yet to use them.. house projects are kicking my a$$..
I was going to not use them and just weld after what mike said.
I was going to not use them and just weld after what mike said.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
My Coffee
New Member Introductions
15
06-06-2017 02:01 PM